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"O ye who tread the Narrow \\'a\' 

By Tophet-flare to Judgment Day, 

Be gentle when 'the heathen' pray 
To Buddha at Kamakura!" 



ALL THE WAY 'ROUND 



THE STORY OF A FOURTEEN MONTHS' TRIP 
AROUND THE WORLD 



By 

EDITH OGDEN HAERISON 

Author of 
Beloto the Equator, The Lady of the S^ioius, ete. 




CHICAGO 

A. C. McCLURG & CO. 

1922 






Copyright 

A. C. McClurg & Co. 

1922 



Published Deeejiber, 1922 



Printed in the United States of America 



DEC 26 '22 

©C1A680719 



To my husband 

Carter S. JIarnsion 



FOEEWORD 

IN SENDING forth this record of our fourteen months' 
journey around the world, I wish to acknowledge my debt 
to my husband, a vigorous guide and splendid companion, who 
has generously provided me with the photographs, taken by 
himself, from which the illustrations are made. 

— E. 0. H. 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER PAGE 

I Europe ; France, Germany and Spain 1 

II The Great East ; the Front Door to India, Colorful 

Bombay 17 

III The Land of Temples and Tea ; The Frozen Pearl 

of Agra 29 

IV The Problem of England in India 42 

V The Ganges; Ghandi, the Great Reformer ... 50 

VI The "Back Door" of India: Calcutta 65 

VII Beautiful Darjeeling; Mount Everest, Roof of 

the World 73 

VIII Madras and Madura ; Hall of a Thousand Pillars ; 

Golden Lily Tank 88 

IX Ceylon, The Pearl of the Indies ; Kandy ; Temple 

of Sacred Tooth 99 

X From Rangoon to Mandalay 118 

XI A New "September Morn;" Burma; A Burmese 

Wedding 131 

XII Malaysia, Penang. The Snake Temple, East and 

Far East, Singapore 143 

XIII Manila ; The Philippines 151 

XIV English Hongkong and Chinese Canton .... 162 
XV Across China; Shanghai, Canton, Suchow, Nan- 
king, Peking 170 

XVI The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking ; Onward 

to Manchuria 187 

XVII Manchuria, Her Relation to China; Korea, Her 

Unrest and Hostility to Japan 207 

XVIII In the Little People's Country — Lovely Japan . 217 
XIX The Nature-Loving Japanese; Buddhism and 

Shintoism; Gifu; Yokohama 241 

XX Beautiful Nikko; Japanese Red Cross; Ju-Jitsu; 

Homeward Bound 255 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

Buddha, Kamakura Frontispiece 

Chateau of Chenoneeaux 2 

Chartres on the Eure 2 

Amiens Cathedral 2 

Chaumont 2 

Chateau Blois, France 3 

Facade, Louis XII wing, Chateau Blois 3 

A Bruges nunnery in which lace is made 3 

Broodhuis, Grand ' Place, Brussels 6 

Cathedral of Ste. Gudule, Brussels 6 

Hotel de Ville, Louvain 6 

Cloth-hall, Mechlin, Belgium 7 

Doge 's Palace, Venice 10 

Fagade, St. Mark's, Venice 10 

San Nicholas de la Villa, Cordova , 11 

Santiago del Arrabal, Toledo 11 

Burgos Cathedral 11 

Cordova Cathedral was formerly a mosque 11 

House of El Greco, Toledo 14 

Court of the Lions, Granada 14 

Roman aqueduct, Segovia 15 

Stone elephants, Victoria Gardens, Bombay 22 

Entrance to the Victoria Gardens, Bombay 22 

Everybody attends the races in Bombay 23 

A Dilwarra Temple 26 

A Jain shrine in a Dilwarra Temple 26 

An interior view, Dilwarra Temple 27 

Pillars of a Dilwarra Temple 27 



Illustrations 



PAGE 

Huge elephants of alabaster in a Dilwarra Temple 27 

A busy corner, Jaipur 30 

Gate to Jaipur, the "Pink City" 30 

Minaret piercing the sky, Jaipur 31 

A coach, Jaipur 34 

A carriage, Jaipur 34 

A temple at deserted city of Amber 35 

Detail of an old temple at Amber 35 

Transportation to Amber 35 

Taj Mahal : a white marble dream 38 

Jain Temple, Agra 39 

An interior view, Pearl Mosque, Agra 44 

Jasmine Tower, Agra 44 

Pearl Mosque, Agra 44 

Khas Mahal, Agra ; Jasmine Tower on the left 45 

Birbol 's Palace, Futtipur-Sikri 48 

Miriam's Palace, Futtipur-Sikri 48 

Diwan-i-Khas, Futtipur-Sikri 48 

Elephant gate, Futtipur-Sikri 48 

Sheik's Tomb, Futtipur-Sikri 49 

A general view of Futtipur-Sikri 49 

Akbar 's Tomb, Secundra 52 

Benares, the Holy City 53 

A corpse being immersed in the Ganges before burning 53 

A funeral pyre, burning ghat, Benares 53 

Mighty Kinchinjinga towers 28,000 feet above sea level 76 

Another view of Kinchinjinga 77 

Ready for swimming, Madras 90 

Car of Juggernaut, Madras 91 

Madura Temple 94 

Coolie girls, Madura 95 

A Holy Man, Rangoon 124 

Golden Pagoda, Rangoon 124 



Illustrations 



PAGE 

Great Bell at the Arakan Pagoda, Mandalay 125 

Burmese women at prayer, Arakan Pagoda, Mandalay 125 

A palace, Mandalay 132 

Grounds of a palace, Mandalay 132 

Entrance to a palace, Mandalay 133 

Entrance to the Queen's Golden Monastery, Mandalay 136 

Detail, Queen's Golden Monastery, Mandalay 136 

Queen's Golden Monastery, Mandalay 136 

A monastery, Mandalay 137 

Docks at Singapore 146 

The carabao (water buffalo) is the horse of the Philippines. . 147 

Market, Bagnio 160 

People come from the hills to the Bagnio market 160 

Igorrotes at the Baguio market 160 

An Igorrote youth 161 

In Canton 's Roof Garden 164 

Sampan Colony, Canton 164 

Taking a siesta in a Canton pagoda 165 

Incense Burner, Suchow 168 

Oldest Pagoda, Suchow 168 

Tiger Hill Pagoda, Suchow 168 

A picturesque bridge, Suchow 169 

In front of City Temple, Suchow 169 

A barber, Suchow 169 

A garden, Suchow 169 

Holy Way to the Ming Tombs, Nanking 172 

Professional beggars seen at the Ming Tombs, Nanking 173 

Drum Tower, Nanking 176 

Bell Tower, Nanking 176 

Pagoda of the War God, Nanking 177 

A large square outside the Forbidden City, Peking 180 

A part of the Forbidden City, Peking 180 

Grand Peace Palace, Forbidden City, Peking 181 



Illustrations 



PAGE 

Camels from the Western hills 181 

Lama Temple, Peking 184 

Temple of Heaven, Peking 184 

An outer gate to the Temple of Heaven, Peking 184 

Entrance to the Temple of Heaven, Peking 185 

A gate to the Temple of Heaven, Peking 185 

Near the Lama Temple, Peking 188 

Near the Central Gate, Forbidden City, Peking 188 

Yellow Temple, Peking 188 

An entrance to the Temple of Heaven, Peking 189 

Grounds of the Temple of Heaven, Peking 189 

Grounds of the Temple of the Universe, Peking 192 

Marble Pagoda near the Jade Fountain, Peking 192 

Entrance to the Temple of the Green Clouds, Peking 192 

Grounds of the Temple of the Green Clouds, Peking 192 

Temple of Prayer, Peking 193 

Entrance to the Lama Temple, Peking 193 

Marble Pagoda, Peking 196 

Pagoda of Thirteen Layers, Peking 196 

Winter Palace, Peking 197 

A scene at the Winter Palace, Peking 197 

Grounds of the Summer Palace, Peking 200 

Summer Palace, Peking 200 

Bridge near the Marble Boat, Peking 200 

Marble Boat, Summer Palace, Peking 200 

Drum Temple, Peking 201 

Grounds of the Summer Palace, Peking 201 

Hall of Classics, Peking 204 

Gateway to the Hall of Classics, Peking 204 

Holy Way to the Ming Tombs, Peking 205 

An elephant figure, Holy Way, Peking 205 

A young Lama priest, Peking 208 

In summer attire, Peking 208 



Illustrations 



PAGE 

On a country road 208 

The Great Wall of China 209 

Another view of the Great Wall 209 

A gateway, Seoul 212 

A street scene, Seoul ." 212 

White Buddha, Seoul 213 

The women of Seoul dress picturesquely 218 

Seoul children f 218 

The men of Seoul are a curious sight 218 

A park scene, Seoul 218 

Museum, Seoul 219 

Entrance to the Museum, Seoul 219 

Miyajima, one of the show places of Japan 222 

Lanterns at Miyajima 222 

A very pretty Japanese girl 223 

A Buddhist temple, Kioto 226 

An entrance to a Buddhist temple, Kioto 226 

The most venerated temple is the Kiyomizu-dera 227 

A garden crossing, Kioto 227 

A curious effect is obtained by stooping and looking back- 
wards 230 

Amano-Hashidate, the most beautiful spot in Japan 230 

An entrance to Nara 231 

Horyu-ji Temple, Nara 231 

Kasuga-jinga Temple, Nara 234 

We constantly passed pilgrims 234 

A scene in Nara 235 

Entrance to the Horyu-ji Temple, Nara 235 

Yokushi Pagoda, Nara 238 

A j&ve-storied pagoda with a wonderful bell 238 

Big Bell Tower, Nara 239 

Yokushi Bell Tower, Nara 239 

'Ricksha teams, Koyasan 242 



Illustrations 



PAGE 

Pilgrims to Koyasan monasteries 242 

Near the entrance to Koyasan 243 

Konclo or Golden Hall, Koyasan 243 

A cemetery, Koyasan 246 

A pagoda, Koyasan 246 

A gate to a cemetery, Koyasan 247 

A monastery garden, Koyasan 250 

Burning paper prayers, Koyasan 250 

A scene in Nagoya 251 

Entrance to the Higashi Hongwanji, Nagoya 251 

Front of Buddha, Kamakura 256 

A splendid cryptomeria grove, Nikko 257 

Tomb of lyeyasu, Nikko.. 260 

Torii before the Tomb of lyeyasu, Nikko 260 

The superb gates are world-renowned 260 

Through the gorge of the Hodzu River 261 



ALL THE WAY 'EOUND 



CHAPTER I 

EUROPE; FRANCE, GERMANY, AND SPAIN 

A DESIRE for knowledge is inbred in us all. To 
visit strange people, to see curious sights, to study 
unusual customs — who has not thrilled at the thought ? 
Small wonder, then, that when the call came to us we 
started, filled with enthusiasm, to encircle the globe. We 
would sail across the seas. We would linger in ancient 
temples and glory in their beauty. We would stand on 
the edge of the towering Himalayas, and from the rim 
of the world peep across at the great Indian plains. We 
would visit the land of Confucius. We would study the 
bland, sleek Chinaman; and in the country of the little 
people — lovely Japan — we would revel in beautiful 
scenery. How the restfulness and joy of such a trip 
appealed to one who, like myself, had led so busy a life ! 
The thought was bliss. 

Such was the innocent belief of a woman setting forth 
on a fourteen months ' tour around the world ! I found 
the ease and comfort of such a journey to be wholly 
theoretical — the work about the hardest I had ever 
done in my life. I had in my husband a strenuous guide 
— one who had set forth fully determined to see all that 
there was to see. Nothing in the line of travel was to 
escape him! I may say right here that his plan was 

1 



All the Way 'Round 



conscientiously carried out; and although we lost flesh 
and were at times almost exhausted in our efforts to see 
and learn, we had not a day's illness. 

To India via Europe 

The lure of the Orient was upon us. India and the 
Far East were our objective points. But we knew that 
the Europe of today is not the Europe of yesterday, and 
as my husband's war work had not permitted him to see 
much of it while there, and as I had remained at home, 
we decided not to let the opportunity go by without 
visiting some of the famous places. 

During his long years of service as Mayor of Chicago 
Mr. Harrison's one relaxation was found in his fondness 
for art. Almost all of his spare moments when in Chi- 
cago are spent at the Art Institute, and he had a long- 
ing to visit again the famous galleries of Europe. This 
decided us. So one day we gathered our little clan — 
children and grandchildren — about us, had a royal feast 
and gaily bade them au revoir! We sailed from New 
York on a French liner — a slow voyage of ten days 
which we greatly enjoyed — landing in Havre toward 
the end of May. We had had a beautiful sea voyage, felt 
in fine feather and made our first stop at Rouen, en route 
to Paris. 

We considered ourselves fortunate to have reached 
Rouen just when we did. The people were celebrating 




Chateau of Chenongeaux Chartres on the Eure 

Amiens Cathedral Chaumont 




--■««.it.V-3 




Chateau Blois, France 

A Bruges nunnery in which lace is made 



Fagade, Louis XII wing, 
Chateau Blois 



Europe; France, Germany, and Spain 



the anniversary of the execution of Jeanne d'Arc. The 
cathedral was beautiful, and for the first time since the 
war they had taken out of hiding all the precious and 
wonderful relics so long and so carefully guarded. The 
oratorio had been written especially for the occasion and 
was a thing long to be remembered. We were fortunate 
enough to obtain seats in the cathedral and therefore 
enjoy it to the fullest. The art treasures alone here are 
worth a king's ransom; the embroideries and tapestries, 
shown also for the first time since the war, are priceless. 
The whole scene was impressive and magnificent. It 
formed a delightful entree to France. Then came Paris 
with all its indescribable beauties, the greatest city on 
earth. In its beautiful galleries and gardens, on its won- 
derful boulevards, we lingered and loved it. For Paris 
is the city of enchantment — a fact conceded by all who 
have been there. During the sunny glare of the day or 
under the brilliant lights ©f the night, it is ever the 
same beautiful, dreamy city, with a character all its 
own. Everybody finds satisfaction in Paris, from the 
lover of art who seeks pleasure at The Louvre and the 
Luxembourg, to the gourmet who haunts restaurant and 
cafe, from the couturier es — the world's most finished 
artists of dress — to the playgoer who spends all his 
spare time at the opera or theater. 

We passed a month in the smaller towns of France. 
Here we might perhaps have been saddened because of 



All the Way 'Eound 



the ravages caused by the war. But it was not so. For 
right alongside of, and in the midst of them, we were 
constantly witnessing France's tremendous and splendid 
recovery. 

Adventure in a Music Hall 
We went from Paris to London in order to secure a 
better passage to Bombay. Here I had a funny experi- 
ence. It was in a crowded music hall. Seated so near to 
us that our chairs jammed against each other, were a 
dapper young Englishman and a Russian woman. From 
the quarrel in which they were engaged I gathered that 
they were married — but not to each other! She was 
reproaching him violently for having broken an engage- 
ment with her. The angrier she got the more embar- 
rassed he became, and at last he said in excellent French, 
"Please speak French or Spanish. This American 
woman next to you understands every word you are 
saying!" Now, as I was born and brought up in New 
Orleans I speak French as well as my mother tongue, 
and I was highly indignant at this impertinent British- 
er's insinuation that Americans are uneducated and capa- 
ble of speaking only one language. My husband and I 
manage to make ourselves understood in several, and 
we are not at all unusual! So after this speech the 
entertainment ceased to attract me. Boiling inwardly, 
I just had to sit and hear them quarrel, in a language I 
understood quite as well as my own. At last, unable 



Europe; France, Germany, and Spain 5 

to contain myself longer, I turned to them and said as 
coolly as I could, "If you wish to exchange confidences 
in public and do not desire your neighbors to understand, 
perhaps it would be well to choose a language which they 
do not speak! I speak English, French, German, 
Italian and Spanish, and have quite a smattering of 
Indian dialects. You might try Chinese. I do not speak 
that ! " My husband heard my sudden outburst and was 
appalled. He had not heard their conversation. When 
later, still somewhat flushed and ruffled, I explained, he 
laughed immoderately. I may not have been able to 
give this imprudent young couple a lesson in morals, but 
I think my words proved a lesson in manners, for, cha- 
grined and somewhat aghast, they took their departure 
a few moments later. 

A Warning Against Cold Beer 

After the polo games and the usual sight-seeing in 
London, we ran over to Winchester to visit the great 
cathedral which we love. All these edifices have been so 
often described that repetition is useless. But in the ad- 
joining graveyard we came upon a curious inscription 
which interested us greatly. It read as follows : 

In grateful remembrance 

of 

THOMAS FLETCHER 

aged 26 



All the Way 'Round 



A grenadier who died from drinking cold beer when hot. 

Placed here by his loving comrades. 
Here sleeps in peace a Hampshire Grenadier, 
Who caught his death by drinking cold small beer. 
Soldiers be wise from this untimely fall, 
And when you 're hot drink strong or not at all ! 
An honest soldier never is forgot, 
Whether he die by musket or by pot ! 

It was a queer thing to inscribe upon a comrade's 
grave, but for over 200 years it has stood there — mute 
testimony to the dead man's imprudence, and to the love 
of his friends. Winchester is an interesting old town 
with quaint houses. One of the latter is known as ' * The 
House that God Begot." It was built in the year 1000 
and was given by Queen Emma to her son, Edward the 
Confessor. 

Visiting the Norman Churches 

Back to Havre we went, taking from here to Caen a 
wretched little boat on which, for the first time in our 
lives, we were seasick. At Caen we visited those two 
absolutely perfect churches, built by William the Con- 
queror and his wife, Matilda, about the year 1062. He, 
Duke of Normandy and King of England, had committed 
a very great crime in marrying Matilda who was a near 
relative, but they loved each other and had therefore 
committed the sin against the church deliberately. 
Afterward they sought to buy God's forgiveness by erect- 
ing these two exquisite churches. The husband, William 




Broodhuis, Grand' Place, 
Brussels 



Cathedral of Ste. Gudule, 
Brussels 



Hotel de Ville, Louvain 










u 



Europe; France, Germany, and Spain 7 

the Conqueror, built St. Etienne and the adjoining mon- 
astery. His beautiful French wife founded a nunnery 
and built La Trinite. St. Etienne is pronounced by 
Baedeker the finest specimen of Norman architecture in 
the world and a sight of it quite repaid us for all our 
trials in getting to Caen. La Trinite is likewise perfect. 
It is a gem — a perfect dream of beauty. The Queen's 
tomb in the crypt is so arranged that the sun never ceases 
to shine upon it, small windows being cut through the 
thick stones encircling it. They builded well — those old 
kings! To them labor was as naught. What pleasure 
have they given to the world ! 

Germany's Historic Spots 

We paid the usual respects to the chateaux, picture- 
galleries and museums of France, spending delightful 
weeks in so doing. But before leaving home we had ar- 
ranged to meet my husband's sister in Germany where, 
forty years ago, they were in school. It was a country 
full of memories for them. Not only had four or five 
years of their youth been spent there, but in this country 
their mother had died and been buried, her body having 
been brought back later to rest in her own land. On 
our way we stopped at Trier, Strasburg, and other 
points of interest. It was my first visit to Germany and 
I found it wonderfully beautiful throughout. It is always 
scrupulously clean, and even in the hotels we found true 



All the Way 'Round 



the story we had always heard of the exquisite care given 
to her linen by the German housewife. We met our sister 
according to arrangement, and that same night attended 
a ball given by General Allen, then in command of the 
forces stationed at Coblenz. Of course we motored a 
good deal and while doing so saw all the historic spots 
of which I had read and heard ; Bingen on the Ehine, the 
haunt of the Lorelei, etc., were just as beautiful as my 
dreams of them had been. The magnificent scenery, to 
say nothing of the superb f orestation of this country quite 
thrilled me. My husband and sister, of course, saw many 
changes. A¥ho would not, after forty years of absence? 
In Heidelberg and Altenburg, where they had been in 
school, we lingered longest while they looked at old 
familiar places and asked for old friends. 

It is only the personal and individual experiences one 
has while traveling, which can be offered as an excuse for 
writing about a journey through Europe. So much has 
been said and written of every country there that I can 
add nothing. Each deserves a volume of its own. But 
I have always had a reputation for having unusual ex- 
periences, and my fourteen months of travel were filled 
with them. The splendor and the beauty of Berlin, the 
galleries of Munich and Dresden — who that has seen 
can ever forget them? 

We spent a night in quaint old Nuremberg, and here 
I had one of the experiences already referred to. Being 



Europe; France, Germany, and Spain 9 

Sunday morning I announced my intention of attending 
Mass in one of the lovely ohurclies for which Nuremberg 
is famous. My sister-in-law, although she is not a Cath- 
olic, said she would like to accompany me to listen to and 
enjoy the music. Engaged in arranging for our depar- 
ture that afternoon, my husband was too busy to go, but 
gave us explicit directions as to how we should find the 
church. As it was not far distant we decided to walk 
and enjoy the cool morning air and the sights of this 
charming town. When we arrived at the church the 
Mass, apparently, had begun. After the sermon my 
sister turned and said to me : " Does there not seem some- 
thing strange to you in the service of this church!" I 
replied that there was, that I had observed it as soon as 
I entered. However, I looked about me again. There 
were the priests, acolytes, incense, vestments and holy 
water fonts — every evidence, in fact, that I was hearing 
Mass. I dismissed the strangeness, attributing it to the 
mere fact that we were in a foreign countiy. When we 
were on the train, however, I recalled it and spoke to 
my husband about it. He roared with laughter — told 
me that I had not heard Mass at all. I had been in a 
Lutheran church! 

Failed to Meet Cardinal Mercier 

I had looked forward to our visit to Belgium, not only 
because of the wonderful museums and churches to be 



10 All the Way 'Round 

visited there, but because I wished to see again and in 
his own country that splendid man, Cardinal Mercier, 
whom we had had the pleasure of meeting in Chicago. 
But I was doomed to disappointment, for he was not at 
home while we w^ere there, much to our regret. 

We chanced to get into Holland just at the opening 
of parliament. We saw the king and queen, in full regalia, 
riding in the celebrated golden coach, an equipage truly 
regal. In this little country, however, it is not the par- 
liament, neither is it the museums, the galleries, nor 
churches which stand out most conspicuously in my mem- 
ory. It is the perfection of the hotel at which we stayed 
in Amsterdam. The poet who sang that 

We may live without poetry, music or books, 
But civilized man can not live without cooks! 

must surely have had in mind the Hotel Doolen. The 
sumptuousness of its service, its rooms, fine linen and 
perfection in food are things one can never forget. 

Before leaving France, I, as a good Catholic, made 
my pilgrimage to Lourdes. Irrespective of the devotion 
which all Catholics show for it, this spot is certainly a 
thing of beauty. Lourdes is superbly situated in the 
heart of the Pyrenees, and the view from an old chateau 
on one of the mountains is simply magnificent. The 
mountains seem so close. They are most imposing and 
the gorge very picturesque. The Grotto itself, with its 




San Nicholas de la Villa, Santiago del Arrabal, Toledo 

Cordova 



Burgos Cathedral 



Cordova Cathedral was for- 
merly a mosque 



Europe; France, Germany, and Spain 11 

many pilgrims annually, its hundreds of crutches which 
have been discarded, has been too often described to need 
more than a mere mention of its name. But the sublime 
beauty of the place, its glorious churches and all its 
sacred history, these combined to make it linger as one 
of the high lights of my year of travel. 

The Spanish Cathedrals 

We spent a month in Italy, which country we never 
fail to visit on every European trip, feeling that what it 
has to offer in art, age cannot wither nor custom stale. 
This time, however, we did not go beyond Florence, for 
the reason that we had never been in Spain and wished 
to spend at least a month in that country. So we had 
to forego southern Italy. Running over from Biarritz, 
we entered fair Castile by way of St. Sebastian, the 
celebrated watering-place where the king has his sum- 
mer home. One of the prettiest harbors I have ever seen 
is here, famous for its bathing facilities and much fre- 
quented by wealthy Spaniards. From here a few hours' 
run through a beautiful country brought us to the famed 
city of Burgos, where we had our first view of a Spanish 
cathedral. In Spain the cathedrals are certainly unique. 
We visited them all — Segovia, Toledo, Seville, Granada, 
Cordova and many others ; all so well described by every 
guide book, and traveler who has gone before me, that I 
refrain from adding my words to theirs. Only one I 



12 All the Way 'Roimd 

cannot help referring to — this is the first one we saw, 
at Burgos. It is a marvel. The lantern, as the central 
tower is called, is large and round and short, and both 
outside and inside is the loveliest thing I have ever seen. 
The carving is superb, the ceiling giving the effect of 
starlight. We spent many hours here, returning to it 
twice. 

Burgos is said to be both the coldest and the hottest 
city on earth. It was only October, but we were frozen 
almost stiff at the hotel (which never has any heat), with 
all our wraps on. Our blood was congealed. Here, also, 
we discovered for the first time in our lives we could 
not eat when we pleased! The American traveler is a 
spoiled somebody! I admit it openly. In a first-class 
hotel in our owti country one can, if he wishes to pay 
the price, get anything at any old time. Not so in Spain. 
We were informed that here the dinner hour, even in 
the small-to^vn hotels, was from nine-thirty to twelve 
P. M. Until this hour the dining room is never opened. 
It grew dark a little after five. Shivering and unhappy, 
we would sit in our rooms, my husband with his hat on, 
freezing and waiting for the dinner hour. Wlien the 
dining room was opened, of course we lost caste, as we 
were always the first to be served ! Many a time while here 
did I go to bed to keep warm and then, too tired to dress 
for a ten o'clock dinner, dined upon crackers and milk 
in my own apartment. All dinner invitations in Spain, 



Europe; France, Germany, and Spain 13 

even those at the Embassy, bear the hour of ten-thirty ! 

Granada and Seville 

We reached Seville on what is known as mantilla day, 
a day on which all women and girls wear the mantilla. 
They made a pretty picture, and it w^as interesting to 
watch them. We remained in Madrid about two weeks — 
wonderful old city with its glorious cathedral — then on 
to Granada, most wonderful of all, home of the Alhambra. 
Only a Washington Irving can adequately reveal the won- 
ders and the beauty of this place. It far exceeded any- 
thing we had anticipated or expected. One cannot be- 
lieve that mere human hands could have carved such 
dainty, lacy things from cold, hard marble, cement and 
wood. The Court of the Lions is superb, the Myrtle 
Court almost prettier, the room of the Two Sisters exqui- 
site, and the celebrated Hall of the Ambassadors most 
magnificent of all. The honey-combing effect of the ceil- 
ing is beyond description. It is a marvel of color ; reds, 
greens, blues, fairy shades. One cannot but be enthu- 
siastic over the Alhambra, in fact, over all Granada. 
In one of the churches here are to be seen the tombs of 
the great Ferdinand and Isabella — the carved figures of 
the king and queen are simply marvelous, the heads rest- 
ing on marble pillows and that of Isabella looking as if 
she had just pressed her head into it. 

The cathedral at Cordova was formerly an old mosque. 



14r All the Way 'Round 

Therefore it is unique. It had hundreds of pillars, colos- 
sal in size. Some wonderful stones were once in this 
mosque, but the Christian in restoring it has not im- 
proved it. 

The Story of Three Charming " Youngsters " 

"We had a wretched trip to Cordova. The Spanish 
trains are invariably filthy, but the journey was relieved 
by an experience. We met three charming youngsters. 
A derailed engine delayed us six hours, and while I was 
trying in my '' perfect " Spanish to gather from the 
brakeman when we should start again, a very beautiful 
blonde girl of about twenty-five, in rapid-fire Spanish 
obtained the information for me and turning toward 
me gave it to me in the purest English! For the last 
hour I had been speaking German with her and her 
brother and sister-in-law who accompanied her. So I 
exclaimed, " Why, you speak all languages ! " " Oh, no ! " 
she replied. " I am German, as you see. But my mother 
is Spanish. Naturally I learned her mother-tongue, and 
we were taught French and English at school." 

I replied that to have mastered four languages at her 
age was certainly a triumph. The youngsters proved 
very agreeable, and we spent much of the six hours that 
we were forced to wait walking about the town arm-in- 
arm. She had asked me to send her some post cards of 
our trip around the world, and this necessitated my ask- 




House of El Greco, Toledo 




Court of the Lions, Granada 




Roman aqueduct, Segovia 



Europe; France, German}^, and Spain 15 

ing her name and address. She replied, " I am the Prin- 
cess Pilar, of Baiern (Bavaria). This is my brother, 
Prince Adelbert, and his wife." 

The latter had told me that her mother was a Span- 
iard and that she had left her baby with her family in 
Madrid. They were on their way back there. Something- 
prompted me to ask, "What was your mother's name!" 
She answered, " She is the Infanta M — , of Spain." 
I then woke up. "Why, you must be the niece of the 
Infanta Eulalia!" I exclaimed. "Yes," she answered. 
"Do you know Aunt Eulalia?" Then followed explana- 
tions and reminiscences. She also had heard of us from 
this same royal aunt, whom we had entertained during 
the World's Fair in Chicago. The family with whom the 
baby had been left were the king and queen of Spain! 
And the Infanta Eulalia, who now lives in Paris, was at 
this time in Madrid awaiting the family reunion. The 
wife of Prince Adelbert, a charming little creature of 
about twenty, was the great-granddaughter of the Em- 
peror Franz Josef of Austria. 

When we returned to the train the youngsters insisted 
on coming into our compartment and crowding two upon 
one seat until we left. They seemed to enjoy our society 
quite as much as we did their lovely youth and spon- 
taneous sincerity. A mutual friend in Paris had written 
the Infanta Eulalia that we were to be in Madrid. On 
our arrival there we found letters inviting us to tea, 



16 All the Way 'Round 

where we would meet the king and queen of Spain and 
see the family. The youngsters had told us that we 
w^ould receive these invitations, and we had told them 
that we should be forced to decline, as w^e should be only 
a few hours in Madrid. Therefore, when we received 
said invitations in Madrid (where we were obliged to 
remain five days in order to get a wagon lit out to Barce- 
lona), my democratic husband insisted that I adhere to 
the declination, as we had no suitable clothes, and permit 
them to believe that we had spent there only the two or 
three hours we had intended. On the night of our de- 
parture we sent a special message to the jDalace express- 
ing our deep regret that we were unable to accept this 
very beautiful courtesy. It is our hope that they of the 
royal family did not learn of our extended stay in Madrid. 
But our friend in Paris, Miss G — , an intimate friend 
of the royal family, did hear of it and was quite caustic 
in her criticism, as she had taken great pains to write 
them of our coming and ask them to be nice to us ! The 
little Princess of Bavaria continues to write me, and this 
evidence of her friendship is one of my very pleasantest 
memories. Her father is Carlos Ferdinand, Prince of 
Bavaria, a most distinguished surgeon. 



CHAPTER II 

THE GREAT EAST ; THE FRONT DOOR TO INDIA, COLORFUL BOMBAY 

THE Great East is fascinating to most people. India 
and Ceylon have been slow in their progress in the 
past and they will continue to be slow in their progress in 
the future. This fact, together wdth the strangeness of 
their customs, their absolute difference from those of the 
other parts of the world, is perhaps their greatest en- 
chantment. China, although she is now rousing herself, is 
also sluggish. But Japan is alert and watchful. This 
is evidenced by her career and her progress in Man- 
churia. Although she still clings to many of her old 
customs, she has already taken her seat among the great 
nations of the world. 

Years before the birth of Christ men were considering 
the uniting of the Mediterranean and the Red Sea. A 
Persian king named Neccho came near undertaking it, 
but superstitious predictions frightened him and the plan 
was abandoned. When Ferdinand De Lesseps opened 
it to the world the Suez Canal prospered beyond the 
dreams of the most sanguine. India became easy of 
access. 

Christmas on Shipboard 

On Friday, the twenty-third of December, on a per- 
fectly glorious day and after a delicious luncheon of sea 

17 



18 All the Way 'Round 

food at Marseilles, we boarded the Kaisar I Hind, an 
English P. & 0. boat. She was a beauty, with every mod- 
ern convenience and filled to capacity with charming, 
first-class passengers. Under these delightful conditions 
we steamed out for our fourteen days' sail to Bombay. 

On the morning of the twenty-fourth we were re- 
minded that the Birthday of the King was approaching, 
and we visualized that everywhere on shore night lights 
would be glowing in honor of the Christ Child. We 
determined to honor Him on shipboard, also. Prepara- 
tions were made by those of different Christian beliefs, 
and for these celebrations the first cabin was reserved. 
Then followed a most disagreeable episode, one which, 
to me, was inexcusable. The Catholics were told that 
their priest must celebrate the Midnight Mass, with which 
the Catholic services at Christmas-time are ushered in, 
in the second cabin! We had persuaded ourselves that 
we are living in an era of liberal religious belief, but I 
could not help wondering whether the God of all Chris- 
tians was flattered at this discrimination! The next 
morning all devotees of other faiths held their services 
in the first cabin. However, all the Catholics in the first 
cabin went to the service in the second, where an episode 
contributed by my good Protestant husband, who had 
accompanied me to the Midnight Mass, caused some hilar- 
ity. The young woman who was leading the choir ap- 
proached and asked if I would be a member. Now, for 



The Great East: The Front Door to India 19 



some reason my singing voice has never been appreciated 
by the members of my family! Eemembering this, I 
turned to Mr. Harrison and said, "Shall I join in and 
help them?" Quick as a flash came the answer, "Not 
unless you want to break up the meeting! " 

'Twixt Scylla and Charyhdis 

Passing numerous islands, seeing smoking Stromboli 
in a fountain of flame after dark, in due time we reached 
the Straits; Eeggio, Italy, on one side and on the other 
Messina. A charming sight they were, with their bril- 
liant lights, but we realized that we were in dangerous 
waters when we stopped for over an hour in order to let 
two steamers pass. We were in the famous Pass be- 
tween Scylla and Charybdis. On the morning of the 
twenty-seventh we had a high sea, but as we were ap- 
proaching Crete the waters became calmer and the sun 
began to shine. In spite of the turbulent, corkscrew 
motion and the fact that many of the passengers were 
ill, the amusements on deck were many. A beautiful 
fancy-dress ball was among the loveliest things I have 
ever seen. 

On the twenty-eighth we reached Port Said. Here 
those who had planned to go to Cairo, Egypt, were forced 
to abandon the trip because of the rioting in which, 
according to the papers, fifteen hundred had been killed. 
A charming young widow from Australia was going. 



20 All the Way 'Eoimd 

with her father and mother, to visit the grave of her 
husband, who had been an army officer stationed in Cairo. 
They could not contmue and were compelled to go on to 
India on our steamer. When first I heard her story I 
thought it a sad circumstance and was filled with sym- 
pathy. Later, however, when she was pointed out to 
me, a young girl in her early twenties, flirting and 
dancing, I decided that my sympathy was wasted. 

Tagore as a Prophet 

Many distinguished people were aboard. Dr. D — , 
a famous surgeon of Chicago, was very popular. An- 
other was a very charming woman belonging to the 
Blavatsky School of Theosophy in Madras. There was 
one most attractive woman, nearing fifty, who was going 
over to visit India's celebrated mystic, Dr. Rabindranath 
Tagore. The year previous he had spent two weeks in 
her house and during that visit he had made her promise 
that should she ever be in trouble she would come to 
him. With a loving husband, with children and grand- 
children, she had laughed at the time, as no premonition 
of disaster had ever come to her. Now, however, she 
was firm in her belief that he possessed second sight, for 
since that time her husband, after thirty-two years of 
absolute devotion, decided that he had met his affinity! 
This woman was Mrs, Van E — , of Holland. She 
belonged to one of the richest and most aristocratic fami- 



The Great East; The Front Door to India 21 

lies in the country. She was an associate of the queen 
and of Holland's most intellectual set. With tears stream- 
ing from her eyes, she told me that she loved her hus- 
band still, and although she had given him a divorce 
she was holding to her promise made to the famous seer 
of India. 

The Suez Canal proved very interesting. Long rows 
of pampas grass fringed the shore and men in white 
garments, with shrouded white heads, squatted on plat- 
forms before their rush houses and plied their crafts, 
some making mats, some otherwise occupied. As we 
were carrying the mail, other steamers tied up along the 
shore to let us pass along the ninety miles of the Canal. 
Swarms of tiny flies and gnats boarded the ship occa- 
sionally, but they did not bite. It was very warm and 
sunny, and paradoxically enough, the Eed Sea was ex- 
quisitely blue ! The cool breeze was a delightful surprise, 
as we had anticipated intense heat. It was quite thrill- 
ing to realize that Mount Sinai, where Moses received 
the Ten Commandments, was near at hand and might 
have been clearly seen had it not been for the haze which 
lay over the water on this particular day. 

Our next port was Aden, Arabia, picturesque but very 
hot. Here we had to wear our sun topis. It was tree- 
less and barren, but the English living there say it is 
healtliy. It seldom rains. Three great tanks cut out of 
the rock (said to have been the work of Moses) furnish 



22 All the Way 'Round 

the water supply. The bazaar was interesting, but the 
heat overpowering, and we were glad to get back to the 
steamer. 

Bombay and Towers of Silence 

On the fourteenth day, January 6, we reached 
Bombay. Here we were simply prostrated by the heat. 
I, who had never had a headache in my life, was almost 
blinded by one. Both of us felt wretched, and concluded 
that if this was our introduction to India, we should not 
be able to stand it long. Friends meeting us told us 
that we must wear colored glasses, as the headaches 
were caused by the glare of the sun. We procured them 
and never suffered thereafter during our entire stay in 
that country. 

Bombay, with its million or more inhabitants, is one 
of the handsomest cities we have seen. Buildings are 
of sandstone, or olive-tinted rock. On a pretty bay, 
overlooking the ocean, the first view impresses one most 
favorably. Malabar Hill is where the Governor has his 
residence, and at the extreme other end of this hill is 
the burying ground of the Parsees, the celebrated Towers 
of Silence. The grounds surrounding these Towers are 
exceedingly beautiful, the Towers themselves most im- 
pressive, one of them having been in use continuously 
for three hundred years. Within it are three compart- 
ments, one for men, one for women, and one for children. 
When a body is brought to the Tower two men employed 




Stone elephants, Victoria Gardens, Bombay 




Entrance to the \'ictoria Gardens, Bombay 



The Great East; The Front Door to India 23 

for the purpose (none others ever enter there) bear it 
through a small opening. All ornaments, all garments, 
even, are removed. " For," says Zoroaster, " naked you 
came into the world. Naked shall you go out ! " Having 
placed the body inside the Tower, the bearers retire. 
Within one hour every vestige of flesh is removed from 
it by vultures ! The bones slip down into a vat of acid 
which destroys them also. What a terrible way to dis- 
pose of one's beloved dead ! 

Rites that Appall 

It was eight o'clock in the morning when we went to 
visit this place. Already many of these mournful birds 
were perched upon the Tower awaiting the daily funerals 
which usually take place at about ten. We were told by 
the attendant that these birds live in the jungle, many 
miles away. But every morning, for from fifteen min- 
utes to half an hour before the bodies begin to arrive, 
they line the Tower awaiting their grewsome feast. Hor- 
rible as the idea is, it is the faith of the Parsee. We 
learned, however, that the modern Parsee millionaire, 
with his twentieth-century education, is beginning to dis- 
like this method of disposing not only of his family but 
of himself, and that he oftentimes tries to evade it. We 
heard of one wealthy man who, whenever he was taken 
sick, immediately boarded a steamer and left his native 
land, because in foreign parts he was not bound by this 



24 All the Way 'Round 

custom. Many times his physicians would forbid his 
going, hut he heeded them not. Finally he died in Eng- 
land, thus escaping the fate of his ancestors. An inter- 
esting thing is the " Everlasting Fire " of Zoroaster, kept 
burning in perpetuity in a small temple near the Towers 
of Silence. 

The Hanging Gardens of Bombay, which are built 
over the water supply and which are so celebrated, were 
constructed because of these horrible vultures. The 
Gardens deserve all the fame they enjoy. Limited space 
alone prevents dwelling upon their magnificence. They 
are the most beautiful things imaginable. Years ago 
when the uncovered water supply was tested, after a long 
siege of cholera, the authorities found that the vultures, 
disgorging after their feast, had dropped flesh and bones, 
fingers and toes, into the water, polluting in this most 
revolting fashion the city's drinking supply. To gTiard 
the water and for the safety of the public health, the 
Gardens were built as a protection. The vultures, how- 
ever, still continue to make trouble. Not long ago a mil- 
lionaire decided to hold a picnic in the spacious grounds 
of his home. In the open gardens the guests gathered 
about the festal board. An overfed vulture alighted on 
one of the tables and vomited. The odor was terrific 
and spread for miles around. The guests fled ! 

The Parsees are generous and everything in Bombay 
is dominated by the Parsee element. Every charitable 



The Great East; The Front Door to India 25 

institution, every pubhc statue, seemingly, is maintained 
or has been presented by them. They are enormously 
wealthy, richest of all the Indians. In the financial and 
social world they shine resplendent. We met many. 
They are superbly educated, very accomplished. Their 
homes are palaces. The smartest motors are driven by 
them. In society in Bombay the Parsee name is an open 
sesame. The women are pretty, charming, cultivated, 
never in purdah,^ as the other women are. One feels that 
although a strange people they are wonderfully agree- 
able. They mix rather freely with the English, but the 
latter never mingle intimately with the Indian races. It 
is the unwritten law, and they hold themselves aloof. 
The natives have their own clubs, and although at hotels 
and public places they mingle ostensibly, the races never 
become intimate. The Indians never belong to the Eng- 
lish clubs. Occasionally they visit them, but it is always 
a formal visit. 

While in Bombay we were constantly learning sin- 
gular things. One of these was that more sunstrokes 
occur on cloudy days than on clear ones. When first we 
heard this, the statement seemed so remarkable that we 
could scarcely credit it. Yet it is true. The explanation 
is that in India the clouds, although superbly beautiful, 
are dazzlingly white. They darken the skies very little. 
Sunstroke comes through the eyes, and, because of the 

lA veil used in India to screen women from observation. 



26 All the Way 'Eound 

intense brilliancy of the light, glasses must be worn, we 
were warned, always on cloudy days, even if one were 
rash enough to lay them aside on clear ones. Another 
singular thing which we learned was that the slanting 
rays of the sun were much worse than the direct ones. 
From nine to eleven and from three to five are the most 
dangerous hours of the day so far as the heat is con- 
cerned. Whether these statements are true or not, we 
decided to take no risks. We wore the sun topis all day, 
until five o'clock, as well as the slightly smoked glasses, 
and after the first day we were never again bothered by 
headache while we w^ere in the tropics. 

A great feature during the season in Bombay is the 
races. Everybody attends them, from ''the Colonel's 
Lady " to " Judy O'Grady," as Kipling puts it. The na- 
tives, however, always remain outside the gates. The 
club and grounds are beautiful, and the day we attended 
it was estimated that the crowd aggregated thirty thou- 
sand. We watched for an hour, then went to the bazaar, 
for, after all, the races were not what we had gone to 
India to see. But — that colorful bazaar! The streets, 
filthy and odorous, were scarcely visible, so densely were 
they packed with shrouded figures and animals; ele- 
phants, camels, donkeys, to say nothing of shrieking 
drivers of small, one-horse conveyances such as our own, 
called tonga. Little shops, with brassware, jewelry, and 
brilliant clothes, lined the way. This visit to the bazaar 




A Dilwarra Temple 




A Jain shrine in a Dilwarra Temple 




An interior view, Dilwarra Temple Pillars of a Dilwarra Temple 

Huge elephants of alabaster in a Dilwarra Temple 



The Great East; The Front Door to India 27 

in Bombay (which city, by the way, is known as the Front 
Door of India, as Calcutta is known as the Back Door) 
was our first ghmpse of the real India. The clamor, the 
color, the teeming population, that fascinating something 
which broods over the Great East — who that has seen 
can ever forget? 

Sad Lot of Women and Babies 

But the indelible impression which every observant 
woman carries away with her from any foreign country 
is the lot of the WOMAN of that country ! This is par- 
ticularly true of India. One morning, a few weeks later, 
I was horrified to read in a Bombay paper the following 
excerpt, which I quote verbatim: 

INFANT MORTALITY IN BOMBAY 

The high death rate among children in the city was the sub- 
ject of a discussion at today's municipal council. According to 
figures supplied by Mr. Byramji, who initiated the discussion, 
the death rate of babies of less than a year old in Bombay is no 
less than eight hundred and eight per thousand ! A report from 
the Commissioner for remedying the evil was called for. 

This terrible statement haunted me until I was sick- 
ened and depressed. Later, however, I accepted it with- 
out surprise. Daily I saw fatigue, almost insufferable, 
on the part of the native woman who, though delicate in 
form, often carried on her head huge baskets of stone 
to be used in building ! The poor women of India, carry- 
ing these burdens beneath the blazing sun, can scarcely 



28 All the Way 'Round 

be expected to bear strong children. Alas, the feeling 
of depression never left me during all the time I was in 
India. Later I shall have much to say of the unfortunate 
condition of my sex in this country. From the princess 
in the maharajah's zenana,^ laden with the rarest of jew- 
els, to the poorest of women on the streets with her silver 
anklets and rings on every toe and finger, woman in 
India is but the chattel and the slave of man. He may 
have as many legal wives and all the concubines he is 
able to support. He can divorce his wife by merely 
speaking the words "I divorce you!" and even in these, 
our modern times, he can do away with her with very 
little trouble and less criticism. "What does life hold for 
woman here ? 



iThe part of a dwelling in which the women are secluded. 



CHAPTER III 

THE LAND OF TEMPLES AND TEA; THE FROZEN FEAEL OF AGRA 

WE HAD thought Bombay colorful. In fact, all 
India is so. A night's ride by train from this large 
city on the Arabian Sea brought us to the spot where 
we had arranged to take a motor to Mount Abu, one of 
the hill stations. This is a summer resort and arsenal. 
Here are situated the famous Dilwarra Temples, four in 
number. Never have I conceived of anything more ex- 
quisite than these. Even the approach to them is not to 
be ignored. Wonderful winding roads, vistas of valleys 
and mountains here and there, led us to the interesting 
villages of monkeys in the jungle. To the tenderfoot this 
is an amazing sight. Unlike the unkempt animals which 
we see in captivity, these are the prettiest monkeys, with 
soft gray fur, light in color, strikingly black nose, mouth 
and ears, and bright eyes; they range in size from the 
baby of scarcely a hand's span to the full-grown animal 
of fully four feet. They scampered about on the rocks, 
munching leaves and nuts, and they gazed at us abso- 
lutely unafraid. 

Miracles in Carving 

At Mount Abu we spent two days, studying these won- 
derful temples which can never be adequately described 
even were one to spend days in the attempt. They are 
Jain temples, and I shall speak of the principal one 

29 



30 All the Way 'Round 

only, wMch contains fifty-two shrines. Each shrine is 
a complete little temple in itself, built of pure white mar- 
ble and containing statues of gods and goddesses. The 
center shrine is the Holy of Holies. No stranger is per- 
mitted to enter. One may stand before the door, how- 
ever, while an attendant holds a light by means of which 
one may see the whole interior. The double row of aisles 
before the shrines are supported by white marble pillars. 
These pillars are certainly amazing in that thousands 
upon thousands of figures (some of them as small as the 
thumb nail) of people, animals, birds, and flowers are 
carved upon them, the carving being perfect to the small- 
est detail. The arches overhead are wonderfully done, so 
thin that the lace on a woman's gown seems scarcely 
finer. When one contemplates the rude instruments em- 
ployed by those who long ago carved these figures, they 
seem little short of miraculous. A side room of this same 
temple contains twelve figures of huge elephants (life 
size) of alabaster. These also are perfect in detail; servi- 
tors, we were told, of the gods and goddesses bestride 
two of them. 

There was no quarry within hundreds of miles of 
Mount Abu. What inconceivable labor must have been 
required to carry this marble such a distance and to such 
heights ! The grandeur and perfection of the work, and 
the richness of it are all the more overwhelming when one 
recalls these facts. 




A busy corner, Jaipur 




Gate to Jaipur, the "Pink City" 




Minaret piercing the skj-, Jaipur 



The Frozen Pearl of Agra 31 

A Princess at Prayer 

While we were in this temple a woman came to make 
her offerings to the gods. She was heavily veiled, only 
her bright eyes showing; very richly dressed in silks, 
heavily laden with magnificent jewels. From wrist to 
elbow was a solid mass of gold bracelets studded with 
precious gems. She wore many heavy gold anklets. Her 
feet were bare, every toe covered with rings. Her short, 
native dress enabled us to see all this distinctly. Kow- 
towing, bowing, praying in chant, she entered the Holy 
of Holies. Finishing her prayers there and continuing 
her bowing and chanting she made her offerings before 
each of the fifty-two gods in the temple, her hand-maidens 
going before, carrying the gifts she wished to place 
before each. We seemed to arouse her interest quite as 
much as she excited ours, and despite her apparent devo- 
tion we were conscious that she was trying to show all of 
her face that she dared, especially to the members of the 
masculine persuasion who accompanied me ! Young and 
graceful she undoubtedly was. And she was well aware 
of it! For presently she deliberately turned her back 
upon her hand-maidens and lowered her veil completely. 
Just for an instant we had a view of a very beautiful 
woman and later we learned that she was a member of a 
princely house. 

The contrast between the heat of Bombay and the 
cold of Mount Abu was marked, but our native servant 



32 All the Way 'Round 

made us comfortable by means of small stoves. By the 
way, this native servant, our bearer, in his picturesque 
dress looked like a prince. He was a Hindu, and with his 
white, shrouded head, his air of graceful hauteur, often 
made me feel that an ordinary command was out of place. 
Fortunately for us his knowledge of his own duties was 
such that we rarely felt it necessary to give an order. 
He was forty-five years old, married, and had nine chil- 
dren. We paid him fifteen dollars gold a month, out of 
which he supported them and fed himself. He consid- 
ered himself well paid, but when we left, we felt so badly 
over the smallness of his remuneration as compared with 
the service rendered us that we thoroughly enjoyed giv- 
ing him something to remember us by. 

Jaipur, the "Pink City" 

Our next journey was to Jaipur, a railroad ride 
through the jungle. We made it most comfortably in a 
compartment intended for four but occupied by us alone. 
It had fine bath tubs and other conveniences for a night's 
journey. As we rode along we saw many wild antelopes 
and hyenas. The birds of gorgeous plumage made us 
realize that we were in India. Jaipur is a beautiful city, 
more Indian in character than any we afterward visited. 
It is known as the " Pink City " because of the unusual 
color of the houses and other edifices. It is so strictly 
Indian that the memory of it still clings strongly. Its 



The Frozen Pearl of Agra 33 

fascination still remains. In the city of Jaipur there 
were no whites except ourselves and two men who served 
the government and lived there. As there was great 
unrest in India, and much talk, I whispered to my hus- 
band that should there be an uprising while we were 
there we should at least be spared a struggle for our 
lives. Awful as that thought was, there was a certain 
calmness in it. In such a contingency the Inevitable 
would be ours. But we three (Dr. D — , of Chicago, was 
with us) were so perfectly enchanted with our adorable 
hotel, so native and so comfortable, managed by Ibraham, 
so interested in the city and its unusual sights that we 
never thought of fear and spent several days of the deep- 
est enjoyment. The Sahibs and the Mem Sahib will 
never forget those memorable days spent in Jaipur. It 
was here that we were shown the man-eating tigers. How 
terrible and yet how magnificent they were, so different 
from the caged creatures we see in our zoos and menag- 
eries. These we saw had been captured but a few 
weeks and were still the wild creatures of the jungle. 
Each of them had killed at least one man. What terrify- 
ing roars they uttered! And how violently they shook 
the bars as they tried to get at us! I knew that they 
were well caged, of course. But I shivered at the sight 
of them. 

The streets are broad, the bazaar a blaze of color, 
and there is ever that restless motion which character- 



34 All the Way 'Round 

izes all the peoples of the East. The Palace has decora- 
tions of unusual style in black and white. The beautiful 
gardens surrounding it gave evidence of the wealth of 
the sick maharajah who lay within it. A physician, we 
were told, was paid a thousand dollars a day to cure 
him, but as he has been paralyzed for four years I 
fancy that he has little chance for recovery. His four 
legal wives, his eight hundred concubines and his in- 
numerable children will, at his death, be left on the hands 
of the government. 

Visit to the Deserted Cities ' 

It was here that I had my first elephant ride on the 
hugest beast I have ever seen. In this manner we 
traveled to the deserted cities of Amber. On a hill com- 
manding a wonderful view of the surrounding country 
were located these ancient places and their marvelous 
car^dngs were a delight. The women's zenana, with its 
lattice-work of marble, was especially exquisite, but one 
is so overwhelmed by the amazing richness of all the 
temples of India that to spend time describing them is 
futile — only a repetition of what thousands of others 
before me have tried (and failed) to do. To view one 
single temple door with all its matchless carving is well 
worth a trip to India. 

In this deserted city I first came in touch with the 
/afcir. I had heard much of fakirs and their marvelous 




< 



< 




A temple at deserted city of Detail of an old temple at 

Amber Amber 



Transportation to Amber 



The Frozen Pearl of Agra 35 

perfonnances, and although afterward I saw many m- 
terestmg demonstrations of their work, I think I never 
witnessed any to equal the one we saw here. He played 
with poisonous cobras, charming them with music! He 
commanded water to flow and to stop flowing while he 
was ten feet away from it! He placed a smoking rag 
in his mouth and shot out fire in sheets of flame nearly 
three feet long! These things he did five or six times 
in succession. 

Sublime Beauty of the Taj 

One of the high-lights in the experience of every 
traveler to the Orient is, of course, the day when first 
he or she looks upon the Taj Mahal. The beauty of the 
Taj by moonlight! Words are too feeble; rhapsodies, 
even, would be inadequate w^ere one to attempt a de- 
scription of the sublime beauty of this white marble 
dream. We have seen it beneath the glitter of the Indian 
sun. We have seen it when the moonlight lay upon it 
soft as a caress. It is difficult to say which view was 
the lovelier. Into this tomb is written the greatest love 
story of the world, that of Shah Jahan and his adored 
and beautiful wife, Montaz y Mahal. It stands, like a 
frozen pearl, on the banks of the Jumna river, in the 
midst of a lovely garden. It is guarded by four min- 
aretted towers, and it is the one work of art in the whole 
world which has never yet been criticized. Ever since 



36 All the Way 'Eouncl 

the Taj was built the stream of visitors has been con- 
stant. There has been but one exception. Some two or 
three years ago when the epidemic of influenza was at 
its height, reaching out its deadly fingers till they 
touched the uttermost parts of the earth, it was found 
impossible in Agra to provide for the burial of the dead. 
The bodies were thrown into the Jumna river and just 
back of this tomb of exquisite beauty they were piled 
high, awaiting burial. The odor was not only intense 
but deadly and the Taj had to be closed temporarily to 
visitors, the only time in its history. In Agra we saw 
also the block of marble where formerly stood the two 
jeweled peacocks, their spreading tails heavily inlaid 
with valuable and precious stones. Through all India 
we had observed that at each station there were two 
drinking fountains — one for the Mohammedans and 
one for the Hindus. So strong is the system of caste 
that it could not be otherwise. 

White Women in Peril 

On our last afternoon in Agra we motored to Fut- 
tipur-Sikri, the city builded by Al^bar but deserted soon 
because of malaria, fogs, and lack of water. The tomb 
of Akbar is superb. It is at Secundra, two miles from 
Agra. Our special guide (not our servant) refused to 
leave me here alone while my husband climbed to the 
top, and when urged by me to tell the reason finally 



The Frozen Pearl of Agra 37 

admitted that there had been many cases of the dis- 
appearance of white women left for a few moments 
alone with the priests stationed here, and that no amount 
of investigation had been sufficient to locate them. This, 
by the way, is one of the horrors of India. As a further 
illustration of it the following story has been related 
to me. A party of tourists (English and American) were 
given permission to visit the interior of one of the 
temples. It contained small enclosures, covered by hang- 
ings, similar to the confessionals in the Catholic churches. 
The attention of an American gentleman was attracted 
by something in the expression on the face of the man 
who had given them permission to visit the inside of 
the place. A swift glance passed between him and the 
man who was to guide them through, and he did not like 
that glance ! In the party was a beautiful young English- 
woman. Looking first at her and then at the guide the 
man at the door said sternly, " No nonsense ! " thus giving 
the impression not only of watchfulness over the guides 
but of safeguarding the travelers. Something in that 
glance caused the quick-witted American to become in- 
stantly alert. It had the appearance of a tacit under- 
standing, and scenting danger he stationed himself be- 
side the young woman, walking close by her side. A few 
moments later he realized that his intuition had not 
played him false, for as they passed one of the curtained 
stalls a strong hand reached from behind the hanging 



38 All the Way 'Round 

and attempted to draw the young lady inside. Quick as 
a flash the American threw himself upon the priest con- 
cealed within. In a moment there was pandemonium. 
The fight which followed was vigorous but brief, and 
while the authorities appeared to be intensely wrought 
up over the episode, it was altogether too apparent that 
this was not the first time it had occurred! Visitors to 
the temples of the East should never visit them alone, 
and when they do so in groups the members of the party 
should be known to be responsible and trustworthy. 
Among the priesthood of the Far East moral responsi- 
bility is an unknown quantity. This story can be verified 
if necessary. 

At the Pearl Mosque 

We spent a part of each of our ten days at Agra 
at the Taj, and on our last evening went to see the beau- 
tiful Pearl Mosque where Shah Jahan, imprisoned by 
his son, spent his last lonely years, attended and cared 
for by his devoted daughter, Jahanara Begam. Volun- 
tarily she shared his exile, for she was the daughter of 
his love, Montaz y Mahal, whose tomb he was ever 
watching in the distance. Montaz was the very highest 
type of Indian womanhood, and her daughter was quite 
equal to her in respect to love and devotion. Jahanara 
loved her mother's resting-place, too, but she expressed 
a desire that when she died nothing but the green grass 
should cover her. Her wish was respected. She sleeps 




< 



The Frozen Pearl of Agra 39 

at Delhi, under the softest of green mounds. Opening 
before the mound, however, are two exquisitely-carved 
gates, her monument. 

Perhaps, after all, the unhappy status of woman in 
India is not to be wondered at. In certain sections they 
still hold to the custom of sacrificing the goats instead 
of human beings, as formerly, and to other religious 
rites and ceremonies long since abandoned by more en- 
lightened people. Saddest of all is the fact that in dis- 
tricts where the missionaries have not yet penetrated, 
women, at certain seasons of the year, still offer them- 
selves to licentious priests as penitential sacrifices. So 
common is this practice that a missionary once told 
me that at times she could not bear to glance out of her 
window ! For when the fanatical penitents are not suffi- 
cient in number, emissaries of the priests do not hesitate 
to go abroad in the city and lure or force others to the 
temples. The British government has made strenuous 
efforts to put a stop to this diabolical practice but as 
yet these efforts have been without visible effect. 

A Royal Romance — and Tragedy 

A case in India which arouses the sympathies of all 
who learn of it, however, is that of the beautiful 
daughter-in-law of the Maharajah of Kapurthala. Him- 
self an educated man, possessing many wives and a thou- 
sand concubines, he determined to try an experiment 



40 All the Way 'Round 

with his son, the heir to his throne. He sent the boy to 
England to receive an European education, to absorb 
European ideas and customs. With the exceptions of 
a few vacations, his youth, from ten to twenty, was spent 
in England where he became a perfect linguist, a thor- 
oughly trained young man. During these years of his 
education, his future maharanee — the girl chosen to be 
his wife — was being brought up in a similar manner. 
She was a brilliant creature — young and lovely — and 
the two young people were thrown together at certain 
intervals to become acquainted. Soon they were devoted 
lovers and friends. The maharajah withstood every 
request to marry them at the early age usual in India, 
but when she was nineteen and he twenty- two the mar- 
riage took place. The maharajah himself was as much 
infatuated, seemingly, with his new daughter-in-law as 
was his son. He permitted her every privilege in the 
palace. She was never compelled to remain in the zenana 
in purdah. She was as free as any American or European 
girl. She received and entertained his many guests and 
proved a delightful companion both to her husband and 
his father. During the ten years which followed her 
marriage she became the mother of three lovely little 
girls, perfect replicas of herself and the idols of the 
whole palace. Follows the tragedy. The law of the land 
demands a male child, an heir. She has none. And 
although her father-in-law is as devoted as ever he has 



The Frozen Pearl of Agra 41 

notified his son that he must take a second wife. "With 
his modern education and ideas the thought is as ab- 
horrent to him as it is to his wife. While we were in 
India the young wife's influence was still sufficiently 
powerful to hold off the evil day. But, for how long? 
We who had the pleasure of visiting the palace could 
readily detect beneath the smooth surface of life the 
deep waters. In the midst of gaiety seemingly spon- 
taneous, in the midst of love, joy, and pleasure, one 
felt always the presence of a lurking skeleton in the 
closet. These two young people, so devotedly attached 
to each other — are they to be sacrificed to the laws of 
India and the necessities of state? If so — why the need 
of modern education? And just how great is the influ- 
ence of modern thought upon an ancient people? 



CHAPTER IV 

THE PEOBLEM OF Eiv^GLAND IN INDIA 

INDIA, the keystone of England's far-flung dominions, 
is on the verge of revolt. The land which holds so 
much of romance and of mystery is facing its most 
serious crisis. That India is seeking freedom from the 
yoke of Britain there is no question in the minds of 
the traveler of recent years. The depression which seized 
us on our entrance to the land two months ago is still 
with us. Will it ever leave us ? I wonder. It is a feeling 
caused and ever intensified by the hopeless attitude of 
the people. Two hundred and twenty-five millions, ruled 
by forty thousand English, plus eighty thousand mili- 
tary! These figures are given out by an army officer 
and are therefore likely to be correct. 

It is the fact that one can never get out of his caste 
which is the prime factor in the hopelessness of the 
situation, but the appalling thing to the liberty-loving, 
fair-minded American is that England has done and is 
doing nothing to help them out of the Slough of De- 
spond. She claims that she will not interfere with India's 
religion! What a poor excuse! 

England's Opportunity 
Her reasons, I think, are far graver and stronger than 
this. By their very ignorance, of course, she holds them 

42 



The Problem of England in India 43 

in subjection, and the caste faith is her strongest foot- 
hold. I know full well that India could not do without 
England. God forbid that she should ever lose England's 
support! England is India's safeguard — her only one. 
Left to herself she would be a thousand times worse off 
than she is. But my question is — having done so much 
for India and having done it so well, w^hy cannot Eng- 
land do more! Why not rise to sublime heights and 
even at a sacrifice tell these groveling millions some 
plain, every-day facts which, even though it took years, 
must eventually show them the folly of their ways? 
This question I should like to have answered. 

England is now educating some of the natives as 
physicians. To what purpose? When they return home 
they are of little service to the community. They can 
practice only among their own caste ! Besides, we com- 
puted the number of these doctors. It provides one 
physician for eighty thousand people! A¥hat folly! The 
number should be multiplied many, many times, and 
then there would be altogether too few ! No wonder that 
when, as already stated, it became known that out of 
every thousand native babies more than eight hundred 
died annually, Bombay decided to sit up and take notice ! 

Sing Praises of Ghandi 

The Ghandi movement has certainly aroused them 
a bit to their responsibilities in India. He is the out- 



44 All the Way 'Round 

come of England's inhuman treatment of the people. 
He has brought about a great unrest in India. ^\Tierever 
we went we saw, felt, and heard it. Little children 
scarcely able as yet to talk, had learned to sing "Mahat 
ma ji Ghandi q'jai! " which means " We wish victory for 
Ghandi!" These words are the logical result of long 
years of oppression and suppression. Ever since the 
English have been in possession of India she has treated 
the natives like dogs, a few rajahs and maharajahs ex- 
cepted. But even this higher class is never permitted 
to belong to a white man's club. Received by the king 
and queen of England — for political reasons — these 
native potentates are denied admission to their social 
life. 

Until England learns to treat these people fairly 
she will never own them. The rabble — the rank and 
file, as it were — have no rights at all. I have seen the 
British strike and beat these poor unfortunates for the 
slightest mistake. They kick and curse them, and the 
poor devils crawl away without the least show of resent- 
ment. Yet I am told they would cut the Englishman's 
throat in a second if they only dared, and it is apparent 
that this is so. Until the English change their methods 
(and will this ever be?) the Indians mil always be an 
unhappy people. A bit of kindness could not hurt, and 
a stratum of rich gratitude might be uncovered under 
the sweat of these unfortunates. Often I had occasion 




^^v ^f -f^ -?^ 




An interior view, Pearl IMosque, Jasmine Tower, Agra 

Agra 



Pearl Mosque, Agra 




bo 
< 



The Problem of England in India 45 

to feel that the haughty Englishman went out of his 
way to be nasty and that he really enjoys the servility 
and obsequiousness which the Indian invariably offers. A 
thing like this is utterly detestable to the American. We 
like respect. We command it. But we hate that cringing 
obsequiousness that one sees in India. 

Instances of Arrogance 

I recall one act in particular which impressed me 
most unfavorably. Coming from Ceylon, a native, dis- 
tinctly a man of education and culture, came on board 
our ship. We ourselves had not spoken to him, but his 
manner, address, and natural ease had attracted our 
observation. We were told by an Armenian, a young man 
who also had been educated in France, that this native 
was a man of some consequence in his own country. He 
was a man of means, it seems, but had been so subjected 
to insult whenever he approached an Englishman that 
although he had paid for a first-class passage he never 
went near a first-class passenger. 

This arrogance evinced toward one who by every 
right is an equal is a thousand times intensified toward 
an underling. On this same boat came a native to show 
his wares. A line was marked on the deck beyond which 
he must not go. The poor fellow, seeing a cabin door 
open just across the line, poked his head in and said 
"Won't you buy?" In a flash the Englishman was on 



46. All the Way 'Round 

his feet and with a rolled newspaper — the nearest thing 
at hand — struck the man a cruel blow across the face. 
He reeled, but he never spoke a word. The swift motion 
of his hands to his face alone revealed his hurt. He 
picked up his pack and slunk off, like the pariah which 
the Englislnnan thought him. Such sights as this we 
saw constantly and they did not tend to decrease our 
disgust for the nation which permits her representatives, 
whether official or unofficial, to inflict them. 

Now and then, however, one gets a glimpse of the 
other side. One meets very surly looks among those 
who dare show their real feelings. We, of course, were 
classed as Europeans wherever we went. As a general 
thing they put us do^vn as citizens of the nation which 
they hate — not without cause. We instructed our guide 
to declare our nationality whenever and wherever he 
could. Proud as I have always been of my Americanism 
and my country I think I was prouder of them in India 
than ever before. 

Visit of the Prince of Wales 

Of course, the unrest was tremendously accentuated 
by the visit of the Prince of AVales. Every precaution 
possible was taken to protect this young scion of royalty. 
To be fair, he seems to be a fine, splendid example of 
wholesome life and youth. Love for outdoor sports is 
characteristic of his race and in this he shares heartily. 



The Problem of England in India 47 

But — he has seen the unrest! He knows it thoroughly. 
One has but to look at him to be conscious of this fact. 
At Agra, for instance, and at Delhi, too, at the great gar- 
den party during the Durbar, he was very nervous. Try 
as he might he could not conceal it. 

The outbreaks in Madras and Bombay were awful. 
Everywhere he went he feared similar exhibitions, and 
all the magnificence of his surroundings could not con- 
ceal from him the undercurrent of anger against his 
country which pervaded India. 

The sight of the rajahs and maharajahs in gorgeous 
silks and all bejeweled would fill volumes. Many of the 
women were in purdah, of course, and could not appear. 
But many, freed from this restraint, did. Diamonds, 
emeralds, sapphires and other precious stones flashed 
their fires everywhere, all equally brilliant and beautiful. 
The turban of one fat old fellow was a perfect mass of 
diamonds. It seemed to be solidly encrusted with genu- 
ine stones. Another had one of diamonds and emeralds, 
huge pendants of the latter suspended from it. One 
woman had wrapped about her body a scarf heavily 
embroidered with jewels and she carried a large peacock 
fan brilliant with precious stones. All these "nobles" 
had gathered to greet the Prince. 

That the young royal guest had killed his tigers and 
his elephants has been time and again recounted — just 
exactly as the English desired. But the Prince was 



48 All the Way 'Eound 

reading between the lines, and reading intelligently. He 
had seen. He knew. What has been his confidential re- 
port since his return to the bosom of the royal family 
of England? That he has told some interesting stories 
I feel sure. But these the newspapers have never 
printed. 

Difficult to Change Tactics 

The Ghandi movement has been of benefit to Eng- 
land in that it has opened her eyes to her intolerable 
and brutal treatment of the natives. So long has this 
continued that now (since the Ghandi movement) that 
the order "Treat the natives with more consideration" 
has gone forth, her representatives in India will find it 
hard to obey. Not easily can they mend their ways or 
change their methods. To say "please" or "thank you" 
now is simply impossible. They who live there say it 
would not only ruin the coolie but create insubordina- 
tion. And after all these years of ill-treatment perhaps 
it would. 

The English have a difficult problem to settle in 
India, but the time when it must be settled is rapidly 
drawing near. The native priests are all with Ghandi 
in sympathy and they are pretty outspoken in their 
views. In the India of our memory and our dreams we 
are trying to forget this terrible spirit of discontent, 
to carry in our hearts instead the remembrance of a 
wonderful land of tropical vegetation and wondrous 




I-V^ 


-. . 


1 


..-. 


5' 


^^ 









Birbol's Palace, Futtipur-Sikri 



Miriam's Palace, Futtipur- 
Sikri 



Diwan-i-Khas, Futtipur- 
Sikri 



Elephant gate, Futtipur-Sikri 




Sheik's Tomb, Futtipur-Sikri 




A general view of Futtipur-Sikri 



The Problem of England in India 49 

Hindu temples. At times we almost succeed. In southern 
India, where we found the cocoanut and the toddy palms 
(real toddy is made from this tree) which grow about 
Madras and Madura, where the superb go pur as (Hindu 
temples are called gopuras, Mohammedan temples are 
mosques) are unrivaled, we felt that we were in the 
real India, the India of our imagination and our dreams. 



CHAPTER V 

THE GANGES; GHANDI, THE GREAT REFORMER 

IN ONE of our various motor rides we passed through 
many villages in- which the people, living with and 
like animals, were much more like the latter than like 
human beings. In one of these we came one day upon an 
old man sitting upon a stone. He was naked, and was 
eating his meager lunch. His picturesque gray beard 
made my husband wish to photograph him. We were 
amazed at the result. The poor old man began trembling 
and crying, pleading pitifully in his, to us, strange 
language. It was only with the greatest difficulty that 
our guide at last made him understand that we merely 
wished his picture. He thought we meant to beat him! 
This episode occurred just a few miles out of Agra and 
is typical. Cruelty has made them afraid. The amazing 
ignorance of this huge India! How long would any 
other people put up with what they endure? 

The Barrier of Caste 

There is no question but that England's problem in 
India is colossal. The fathomless, bottomless question of 
caste and the natural opposition to the establishment of 
anything new — in the face of these, will she ever be 
able to accomplish anything? As has been said, there 

50 



The Ganges; Ghandi, The Great Reformer 51 

are graduated each year in India thousands of young 
physicians, fully equipped for the intelligent practice of 
medicine. Of what real use are they? Each can practice 
upon none but the members of his own caste. The hos- 
pitals and nurses are competent, but just as helpless in 
the face of this enormous stumbling-block. True, they 
are enthusiastic. They are even optimistic. But the 
visitor from other lands sees little to warrant optimism. 
A beggar may be a member of a high caste. But he would 
be forever ruined were he to touch something which 
a man of such high standing as the king of England, 
even, had used! 

As we went to Delhi we came upon a funeral. Four 
men bore the body, which was swathed in bandages, like 
a mummy. They carried it uncoffined, high above their 
heads, to the jungle where it was to be left to be devoured 
by wild animals. This is the burial custom of the Mo- 
hammedans in this section of the country. While in 
Delhi we rode a great deal in a tonga, in which one sits 
with one's back to the driver and is thus enabled to 
enjoy the sights. And speaking of sights — we were 
much amused to see many men with their beards dyed 
red, such decoration being regarded as a mark of great 
beauty among the Indians. 

A repetition of the beautiful temples was to be seen, 
of course, in Delhi. The Jami Masjid and the Pearl 
Mosque fascinated us. In one of the mosques we were 



52 All the Wa.y 'Round 



shown the coflQn where Dargah, an emperor who died 
six hundred years ago, still lies in state, buried under 
fresh roses which are brought daily by devotees. The 
delicate and delicious perfume from these flowers gives 
evidence of the place he holds in their memory. 

Benares, the Holy City 

Reminiscences of my journey through India would, 
if fully recorded, fill volumes. They can be touched upon 
but briefly here. Both interesting and horrible was 
Benares, although we found interest in visiting its brass 
works, its monkey temples, and its sacred cows. I would 
hasten on to its Mecca, the Ganges. 

Once in life, at least, every Hindu hopes to come here 
and wash in these filthy waters. Should he die in Benares 
— he goes straight to heaven! If he dies across the river 
he becomes a donkey, etc. Just why this is so is a 
question which the traveler finds it impossible to answer. 
For Benares is incredibly, unspeakably, indescribably 
dirty. Sewers belch filth constantly into the Ganges. 
Dead cats and dogs float everywhere. Bodies are burned 
and the charred remains pitched into the river. Thou- 
sands of pilgrims wash in the Ganges daily, yet thousands 
drink the water from it constantly. From the palatial 
residences surrounding it the multimillionaires send their 
servants to bring this water with which to make their 
afternoon tea ! 




Benares, the Holy City A corpse being immersed in the 

Ganges before burning 

A funeral pyre, burning ghat, Benares 



The Ganges; Ghandi, The Great Reformer 53 

We spent many hours on the river before the ghats ^ 
watching the fanatical but interesting life depicted there. 
On the elevation alongside the river were platforms on 
which sat the priests, receiving the offerings of the 
pilgrims. One offering every pilgrim has to make. He 
must buy a cow and present it to the priest! For said 
cow the wealthy will pay any price. The poor pay but 
a few pennies. Now, remembering the numerous pilgrims 
who come daily, one will readily realize the difficulty of 
suppljdng the demand for cows for this purpose! For 
the convenience of the pilgrims a cow is kept close at 
hand. Festooned with bright garlands it is ever ready 
to be bought and rebought. It changes hands many times 
daily ! On the day we were here a crazed priest created 
much excitement by running madly up and down the 
shore. But here a crazy person is regarded as sacred. 
No one touches him, and usually he dies of exhaustion. 

Pilgrims Give Till it Hurts 
We heard it stated that there were more than two 
hundred thousand Hindu gods represented at Benares. 
The number may not be accurate, but certainly they are 
there by the thousands. The insinuating priests who line 
the river banks to catch the unwary pilgrim mth a well- 
lined purse know their business well. Rich and poor, 
high caste and low, all come to the sacred city. By 

lA landing place with descending stairs. 



54 All the Way 'Round 

elephant, by camel caravan and by rail they cross India 
to the waters of the Holy River. Is there elsewhere in 
the world so wonderful a line of devotees? Or such a 
band of thieves awaiting them? Every pilgTim gives all 
that his purse affords, and on these gifts the greedy 
priests fatten. The rich give colossal sums, and even the 
poor give generously. Seeing the filth and squalor which 
constantly surround the latter, one wonders where they 
find the means to do so. But they do. And the amount is 
ofttimes surprising. 

The Hindu custom of burning the dead, repulsive 
as it is, is far less objectionable, in my estimation than 
is that of the Parsee who permits his to be devoured 
by the vultures. No one ever really sees the Parsee burial, 
but the very idea is loathsome. But we did see the de- 
struction of the bodies by fire, and the sight was sicken- 
ing. A clatter of cymbals announces that a funeral 
procession is approaching. The corpse, fastened upon a 
simple bier made of bamboo sticks, is carried on the 
shoulders of four male relatives. No women ever come 
to these funerals. If it is that of a man, the body is 
swathed in white. If a woman, in red. The body is 
immersed in water, then left to be rinsed in the holy(?) 
disgustingly-filthy river while the relatives stand on the 
bank and bargain for firewood. This obtained they build 
the pyre. The body is placed upon it, the feet pointing 
toward the sacred river. The chief mourner lights a 



The Ganges; Ghandi, The Great Reformer 55 

torch, walks seven times about the pyre, then Ughts the 
wood. The mourners then withdraw a httle distance and 
watch it burn, the chief mourner returning frequently 
to push an arm, foot or other portion of the body back 
into the glowing flames. It is a horrible sight! And if 
the people are poor the body is usually only half burned 
because they have been unable to buy sufficient wood. 
These half -charred bodies are then thrown into the river, 
where the hungry dogs of India have, like the vultures, 
learned to wait along the banks for them, and where the 
crocodiles devour them as they float down stream. Is 
it any wonder that cholera flourishes here? At the time 
we were here this deadly disease was raging within fifty 
miles of us. 

No Laughter Among Women 

One morning we personally witnessed fifteen burials 
such as I have described, right among the bathers. On 
questioning these benighted creatures they assured us 
that the water of the Ganges could not be polluted — that 
it was absolutely pure! The power and the magnitude 
of this ignorance and fanaticism! Is it to be wondered 
at that the feeling of depression which took possession 
of me when I entered India never left me? The hideous 
skin diseases, the blind, the maimed — one meets them 
at every turn and their number is appalling! But even 
this did not equal in magnitude what I saw in the eyes 
of every woman I met in the streets. The hopelessness 



56 All the Way 'Round 

in those eyes ! Centuries of subjection have crushed her 
spirit utterly ! One could see it in the face of the youngest 
child! Prom the babe of six months (who frequently 
wears the nose ring) to the woman of extreme old age; 
there is no light or laughter in the face of the woman 
of India ! The nose ring, by the way, is ostensibly a mark 
of personal vanity. To me it is the symbol of savagery 
and degradation. 

For the coolie woman of India there is no rest. She 
does the same labor as the man, only more. For even 
when she is carrying stones for building, and perform- 
ing other such arduous tasks she is never without her 
children. If the child is not carried upon her hip while 
she works, or strapped upon her back, then it is sure to 
be seen playing about her feet. She is never free from 
the care of it. As for the man, although he performs 
the same heavy tasks and shares the poverty of the wife, 
he does not seem to share her hopelessness and her deg- 
radation. He is much more cheerful of countenance than 
she. 

Efforts to Better Woman's Lot 

Criticism is always easy. But the solution of so 
gigantic a problem as England has to solve in India 
calls for tolerance of opinion and sympathy. Whatever 
her efforts, and I am sure they have been great, she 
has never made any appreciable improvement in the 
condition of woman. Now, however, the propaganda is 



The Ganges; Ghandi, The Great Reformer 57 

undoubtedly there that the hfe of the native woman 
must be bettered. We met some cultured Parsee women 
and with them I had some interesting conversations on 
this subject. Some of them were employed by the gov- 
ernment and were just returning from England, whither 
they had been sent to make a study of the conditions 
surrounding the women of more enlightened countries. 
One thing I must say. This is, that no matter what criti- 
cism may be offered as to the policy of England in India 
the spoils system has not entered there. It is true that 
we saw in this country magnificent estates, wonderful 
palaces, palatial homes. But each and every one was 
owned by a native! Among the latter there are many 
multimillionaires, and they spend their wealth lavishly. 
The English residents, on the other hand, most of them 
army officers and government officials, live simply in 
bungalows and modest homes, all that their meager sala- 
ries will pay for. This is commendable and does England 
and the Englishmen credit. 

All tourists will relate that, throughout all India in 
many of the temples, the sex worship is the thing most 
marked. But at Benares there is a small Nipolese tem- 
ple devoted entirely to it. No woman is permitted to 
enter. To the masculine visitors, however, lewd, vulgar, 
leering priests point out in detail the disgusting features 
of their rites. To the mind of the Christian such a thing 
as this, masquerading under the name of religion, is 



58 All the Way 'Round 

a peculiarly revolting form of hypocrisy, 

I have already spoken of Ghandi, the great reformer. 
The propaganda which England later came to view with 
foreboding, if not alarm, was well under way when we 
were in India. In his belief that he could lead his people 
to emancipation he had aroused great fanaticism, and 
the feeling of aggressiveness against England was greatly 
accentuated by the knowledge of the vast amount* of 
money which was being spent in preparations for the 
Durhar and the approaching visit of the Prince of Wales. 
Surely, England is living on the edge of a volcano here. 
The natives hate the English to a man — a fact revealed 
at every turn. The undercurrent of malevolence is very 
apparent — so much so that our guide was constantly 
announcing that we were American, not English! We 
could not but realize that should a leader ever appear 
who can weld together the masses it will be the end of 
English rule in India. Her eighty thousand soldiers 
would stand little chance when pitted against India's 
three hundred and twenty-five million malcontents ! 

Whatever Ghandi's religious views, whatever his am- 
bitions for his people, it must be conceded that person- 
ally he is a wonderful man. Cultured and intelligent, 
educated in Europe, living the life of an ascetic, his very 
picturesqueness appeals to his followers. He has taken 
a vow of silence. One day each week he spends in bed, 
and no amount of solicitation will move him to break this 



Tlie Ganges; Gliaiidi, The Great Reformer 59 

vow. A newspaper man told me of a remarkable inter- 
view which he had with him during which all Ghandi's 
answers were written. He had chanced to call upon him 
on his day of silence. 

Despite the harsh criticism from the outside which 
has been hurled upon him, to the people of his own coun- 
try he is a god. They believe him to be absolutely, unself- 
ishly sincere, gifted with powers almost divine. And 
after all, these are the attributes of a great leader. "What 
England should have done in the beginning, and did not, 
she did too late. His influence had become too powerful. 
At last England had him arrested. But — the pebble had 
been thrown into the pool. The w^aters were already 
violently agitated. The circles widened every day. The 
seed which had been quietly planted began to bear fruit. 
It was too late to stop either the agitation of the pool, 
or to destroy the abundance of the harvest. The propa- 
ganda goes steadily on. We were warned that travel in 
India at this time was not without danger. But aside 
from occasional riotings in the streets, we escaped any- 
thing unpleasant. Friends who had preceded us related 
that they had seen people killed more than once. 

The Monkeys of Benares 

I have spoken of the Monkey Temple of Benares. It 
is very curious and pretty, dedicated to Kai, the goddess 
wife of Siva. It is infested with monkeys. How anyone 



60 All the Way 'Eound 

could worship in this place is quite beyond my compre- 
hension. The image of the goddess is hideous. It is 
black and has a fiery red tongue which reaches to her 
waist. She is dripping with blood, crowned with snakes, 
and hanging from her neck is a chain of human skulls! 
She demands blood sacrifices, and if such are not fre- 
quent, disaster is sure to follow ! Such a cheerful propo- 
sition! Every Indian town, I am told, has a temple to 
this terrible goddess. I presume that at one time the 
sacrifices in these temples were human ones, but this is 
not now permitted by the government. But the sacrifices 
are always alive when offered. What a strange religion 
which worships demons rather than the gentler gods! 
The usual sacrifice now is a goat, but it is claimed that at 
times of pestilence, famine, or other disaster it is not 
unusual to find a human head — generally that of a 
child — lying at the feet of the goddess! The monkeys 
which surround one who enters here are the fattest and 
the ugliest ones imaginable. They are so clamorous for 
food that one has to be continually pushing them away. 
In its desire for the bit which I had in my hand one 
snatched at it, tearing my glove. The surgeon from Chi- 
cago, who was with us, anxiously looked at my hand 
to see whether it was scratched, but fortunately this was 
not the case. Really, one can imagine nothing more dis- 
gusting than this horrible Monkey Temple with its nause- 
ating customs, hidden under the cloak of sanctity. 



The Ganges; Ghandi, The Great Reformer 61 

England's Formidable Task 
As has already been said, whatever the intelligent 
thinker may see to criticize in England's policy in India, 
one thing should be kept in mind. Wherever there is 
work to be done there is always opportunity for criticism. 
It is so in this case. India could not live without England, 
and God help her should England, either willingly or 
because of revolution, desert her ! 

India has been called the land of topsy-turvy. It is a 
fitting name. "We were both surprised and amused to 
find things done in exactly the opposite way to which we 
were accustomed! For instance, one of our rules of 
health is to keep our heads cool and our feet warm. The 
native of India has the opposite idea. He carefully cov- 
ers his head to keep it warm, and bares his feet to keep 
them cool! When he enters the mosque he carefully 
removes his shoes. But he would never dream of remov- 
ing his turban! At his meals he takes his sweets first, 
and, with the exception of the Parsees, the men never walk 
with their women. The latter follow along in the rear ! 
When a man beckons to you he holds his hand not upward 
but downward, and he clucks to his horse not to make it 
go but to make it stop ! 

Some Indian Customs 

The fruits of India, such as the mangoes and man- 
gosteens, are celebrated the world over and the rosy red 



62 All the Way 'Round 

bananas are delicious. The dress of the Hindu woman 
varies according to the section of the country in which 
she lives. But from the landing at Bombay all the way 
through the land they are always found laden with jewels 
and ornaments, the nose ring playing a conspicuous part. 
The ordinary woman wears the saris of cotton draped 
about her limbs and a broad shawl over her shoulders, 
or else a skimpy bodice w^hich reveals all the rest of her 
toilet. They are fond of color, especially the blues and 
greens. Of course, the richer women wear silk skirts, 
sketchy bodices, and the voluminous white chadctr. An- 
kles, toes, hands, and ears are covered with all the jeweled 
ornaments they can possibly get on them, and the little 
girls are miniature copies of their mothers. Two Indian 
customs annoy the traveler greatly. One is the habit they 
have of removing their shoes and placing their feet on 
the seat right in front of your face. The other is the 
horrid custom of chewing the betel-nut, the red saliva 
running down the face in a most disgusting manner. 

The climate of India always proves a surprise. One 
naturally expects heat there. But the coldness of the 
Punjab night is a thing long to be remembered. In Jan- 
uary and February it is quite usual for shallow pools to 
freeze. Travelers must guard against malaria, and the 
mosquito bite here, as elsewhere, is poisonous. Malaria is 
one of the deadliest things which India has to fight. Its 
history is a tale two thousand years long. When it is 



The Ganges; Ghandi, The Great Reformer 63 

estimated that malaria kills three hundred and fifty thou- 
sand each year in India alone, the deadly surgical work of 
the mosquito is easily understood. We took no chances. 
No matter where we went we slept under mosquito bars. 
Neither did we wish to take any chances of contracting 
that other deadly thing — cholera. So, from the day we 
entered the East, we tasted no uncooked food, drank no 
unboiled water, the only exception being when we reached 
Baguio, in the Philippines, where the government has 
charge of everything. Difficult as it was to refuse the 
delicious strawberries and the delectable fruits, we found 
that it paid. We had not a day's illness. 

An Unpleasant Experience 

Everyone knows the deadliness of the sting of both 
serpents and insects in India. Near Benares one day 
I had a terrible fright. As I was preparing to retire at 
night I found my undergarments saturated with blood, 
and on one of my limbs a small spot resembling in size 
and shape a silver dollar. It was inky-black and right 
in the center was a tiny opening resembling the prick of 
a pin. For protection against such contingencies we had 
carried a bottle of iodine with us, but in my fright I 
forgot all about it and fled to the apartment of the Chi- 
cago surgeon to whom I have already referred and who 
was traveling with us at this time. He admitted that he 
had never seen anything like it but advised me to make 



64 All the Way 'Round 

use of the iodine and aAvait results. I had felt no pain 
at any time, nor did I then feel discomfort. But the 
place certainly looked angry and that black spot remained 
for weeks and weeks. Even now a slight discoloration 
reminds me of it. Having heard so much of the poison- 
ous insects of the East, my perturbation was great. I 
was quite sure that I was doomed ! India is not, of course, 
the only country where one frequently loses his life from 
the sting of a tiny creature. But when one recalls the 
appalling fact that the plague, usually called the Black 
Death, carried off seven millions of people in fourteen 
years in India alone, anything at all out of the ordinary 
sets one thinking ! Like the object which one sees ahead 
in the fog, a slight accident becomes distorted in shape 
and magnified in size ! 



CHAPTER VI 

THE "back door" OF INDIA: CALCUTTA 

OUR next stop was Calcutta. Here I had the pleasure 
of meeting my nephew who has been connected with 
a large American company there for some years. On our 
travels we had met the president of this company and 
his son, like ourselves making a tour of the world. Meet- 
ing thus in Calcutta, we spent many charming hours, and 
no matter whither we journeyed we had one constant 
illustration of the manner in which people are deceived 
by what, for lack of a better name, we know as " Public 
Opinion." Public opinion, so called, is a huge joke! It 
may be opinion all right, but it is seldom the opinion of 
the public! Here was a case in point. In spite of the 
talk which was general over the whole world as to the 
hardness of the times and the economic depression, no 
matter where we went or how we traveled, we found every 
hotel filled to capacity, even to overflowing. It was al- 
most impossible to get satisfactory accommodations 
anywhere. Every hotel was filled with travelers, and 
among these Americans predominated. It was most 
inconvenient. 

A Country of Surpassing Interest 

In looking back over our journey we concede that 
India was by all odds the most interesting country we 

65 



66 All the Way 'Round 

saw — even in spite of its terrible poverty, its loathsome 
diseases, its ignorance. Only one hundred in every thou- 
sand can read. But its superb Himalayas, its magnificent 
temples, the richness of the carvings which fairly over- 
whelm one, its problems of caste and social inequality, 
its customs, different from those of any other part of 
the world, its air of mystery — all these things work 
together to make the real India. Yet — it is not a 
white man's country ! The two elements which seemingly 
do not trouble the natives at all, namely, the sun and 
the food, are the enemies of the white race. One never 
sees an European or an American who has not that pasty, 
bloodless look which speaks of ill-health and lack of 
vitality. It is scarcely necessary to refer to the well- 
known fact that every child born of European parents 
in this country, precociously developed because of the 
climate, must be sent back home before the age of six. 
It is quite common to hear some father or mother say, 
"I have just said good-bye to my children. It will be 
four years before I can get to England to see them 
again ! " 

None of these foreign residents ever dare deviate for 
a moment from the rule I have mentioned in regard to 
uncooked food and unboiled water. Should they do so, 
they never fail to rue it. The consequences are severe, 
often fatal. While we were in Calcutta a sad accident of 
this character occurred. A young man with a very 



The " Back Door" of India: Calcutta 67 

cliarming little wife had been living upon a meager salary 
in England, but having proved competent above the aver- 
age, he had been transferred to the Calcutta branch of 
the house at a very handsome salary. For the first time 
in his life he had no financial worries. He had bought a 
pretty home, had a fine motor car and plenty of servants. 
For three months they had been the happiest of couples. 
But ten days before w^e came, being inordinately thirsty, 
he one day broke the rule and against the advice of his 
employees drank a glass of cold, unboiled milk. During 
our stay he died. Cholera is ever present in Calcutta, 
but the bubonic plag-ue, so deadly in other sections of 
India, is not bad here. I was unable to learn why this 
was so. 

Calcutta Too Modern 

"We did not find Calcutta as interesting as the other 
Indian cities, the reason being that it is so modern. One 
need not travel to the Orient in order to see a modern 
city. It has broad paved streets and many other modern 
adornments. The Buddhist Pagoda there, called by some 
the great Jewel Box of the World, was to me the least 
interesting of the temples that we saw. True, it is a mar- 
velous elaboration of the goldsmith's art. It is chiseled 
in a lacelike pattern, covered with mosaic made of marble 
and mirror glass. This reflects the light in such a man- 
ner that it has the effect of being encrusted with dia- 



68 All the Way 'Round 

monds. Everybody visits the Pagoda, of course. But 
it is too ornate for the lover of beautiful art and archi- 
tecture to really admire. 

The fine hotels, the delightful people, the splendid 
clubs on the outskirts of the city — these are our pleasant 
memories of Calcutta. In this city we had friends and 
our enjoyment was thereby increased. At the clubs men- 
tioned the usual sports were indulged in. Tennis and 
golf were played. Here, at about five o'clock in the after- 
noon, the social life of the city is to be seen at its height. 
And right here I would say something which I find to 
be a subject of general conversation among returned 
American travelers. Due, perhaps, to my Puritan an- 
cestry, I find myself unable to get rid entirely of the 
distaste instilled into me when young for seeing a woman 
smoke. But my objections, if not removed, were cer- 
tainly dulled while journeying around the modern world 
this time. At the clubs referred to, everybody, both men 
and women, smoked. Also, each had his and her whisky 
and soda ! The custom, seemingly, has become universal. 
No city that w^e visited but had its feminine users of the 
weed. They are fully as numerous as the men, and in 
some places the customs are such as to provoke much 
mirth. For instance, in Burma, the women smoke huge, 
black, thick cheroots. The men use tiny, delicate cigar- 
ettes! So much for the progress and enlightenment of 
the woman of the twentieth century. Another thing we 



The " Back Door" of India: Calcutta 69 

learned was that in this warm country no liquor or stimu- 
lant is ever taken before five o'clock. After this hour, 
however, all who wish indulge to their satisfaction. But 
the traveler who wishes to take a cocktail at luncheon 
can never persuade the resident to join him. 

The "Brain Fever" Bird 

I have spoken at times of the depression which follows 
one almost constantly while traveling in India. There 
are moments, of course, when one forgets it, or is able to 
put it temporarily in the background — when the sheer 
beauty of the land, the picturesqueness of the life, are the 
things uppermost in one's thoughts. But even during 
these moments one is likely to have some unusual experi- 
ence. On one occasion I was sitting at one of these beau- 
tiful clubs, just idly watching the changing scene which 
spread out before me. Through wondrous and gorgeous 
palms I was watching a red sunset that I can never forget, 
and after it had passed the brilliancy of the stars which 
came creeping out, the "forget-me-nots," as Longfellow 
calls them, " of the angels." Everything that was sad or 
troublesome seemed very far away. But suddenly, right 
above my head, I heard the most mournful cry of a bird. 
I had thought our American whippoorwill the most 
weird of the feathered flocks, but its lone cry cannot be 
compared to that which I heard on this night. Greatly 
startled, I asked, "What is that?" The reply was, "It 



70 All the Way 'Eound 

is the Brain Fever Bird!" "But," I insisted, "what is 
its real name? " Again I was told that that is its correct 
name, and certainly it is correctly called. For it says 
distinctly, over and over again, in constant repetition, 
the words, " brain fever, brain fevee^ BEAIN FEVER ! " 

To the resident the first cry of this bird is the signal 
that the extreme hot weather is approaching, bringing 
with it the ever-recurring epidemic of brain fever which 
always attends it. I was told that to those who were ill 
of brain fever the constant repetition of the cry of this 
unusual bird is maddening. Needless to say that, in spite 
of the gaiety and beauty of the surroundings, my depres- 
sion returned. Those who live there, however, seem not 
to mind it. 

There was so much that one must miss in India. What 
we saw we saw very thoroughly, but we feel that some 
day we must surely go again. Any story of a trip such 
as we made is of necessity sketchy. The half can never 
be told. Besides, the varying climate prevents covering 
all the country in one journey. The celebrated Vale of 
Kashmir, famed in song and story, we could not see. 
The road to it was impassable at the season that we were 
there. So its eternal snows, its mighty peaks, its mead- 
ows of flowers, and its strange inhabitants must wait 
another time. 

One of our greatest disappointments, however, was 
not a failure to see beautiful scenery. There is probably 



The " Back Door" of India: Calcutta 71 

no section of equal extent in the world which has pro- 
duced so large a number of deep religious thinkers as 
that section in northern India watered by the Ganges. 
It is one of the anomalies of India that her people love 
their religion with a deep and passionate love, although 
the two greatest of those religions — Hindu and Islam — 
are opposite poles in thought, practice, and character. 
If the history of a country is molded by its physical 
geography and climatic conditions, then surely the char- 
acter of its people is molded by their religious beliefs. 

Tagore a Great Force for Good 

As one passes through the land he cannot but be im- 
pressed by the influence which that great scholar and 
thinker, Rabindranath Tagore, has had upon his people — 
not only upon the intellectual and educated element, but 
upon all of them. They all know, respect, and love him. 
We in America who have only met him, who have perhaps 
listened to his readings, and been enthralled by his beau- 
tiful and lofty philosophy, can form no idea of the power 
he wields in this, his own land. About ninety miles from 
Calcutta he has established a school, where he is endeav- 
oring by education and correct living to uplift and ele- 
vate his people. Highly educated himself, he is the most 
modest of men. He lives the simplest of lives in his 
tiny bungalow on the grounds, and although in his sev- 
enties, he is vigorous and sturdy, attending to his own 



72 All the Way 'Round 

personal wants, going so far, I am told, as to keep no 
servant. He has, however, an able secretary, who attends 
to his immense correspondence. He permits himself 
little time for rest, works continuously, spends all his 
personal money and the many gifts sent him upon the 
school in which he is so deeply interested. 

"We carried letters to him from dear friends in 
America, the H — family of Santa Fe. They wrote us, 
" Please, please see Dr. Tagore. He is one of our dearest 
friends and will welcome you cordially, because we have 
written him." We looked forward to seeing him in that 
tiny home of which we had heard so much, such a home 
as all great men love, surrounded by a little colony of 
earnest workers and thinkers. We found as we went 
our way that this home of Dr. Tagore's, small and insig- 
nificant as it is, is known throughout the world. He 
wrote us cordially, and then wired, asking us to be his 
guests. But our plans so arranged themselves that at 
the last we found it impossible to accept. Much as we 
desired to see him, our stay was too limited for us to 
spare the three days necessary to reach him and his little 
colony. Most reluctantly we relinquished the journey, 
and the regret at not seeing him still lingers. We cannot 
help feeling that truly we lost one of the most interesting 
experiences that all India could offer us. 



CHAPTER VII 

BEAUTIFUL DAEJEELING ; MOUNT EVEREST, ROOF OF THE WORLD 

IN THE heart of the Himalayas, about four hundred 
miles from Calcutta, lies the beautiful city of Darjeel- 
ing. It is about six thousand feet above the level of the 
sea. It was well for us that we had taken a nice rest 
in Calcutta, for in a way it prepared us for one of the 
most trying journeys w^e had to make, although the roads 
were fairly good and the trains most comfortable. The 
railroad officials, however, seemed absolutely indifferent 
as to the convenience of the traveler. Even at the risk 
of being tautological (I have referred to the same thing 
in my book on South America), I must speak again of the 
fact that foreigTi countries are one hideous succession 
of uprisings and rebellions. "We can certainly testify to 
the uprisings. Every old train, starting to every or any 
old place, never left later than five o'clock in the morn- 
ing. When, with what my husband insisted was feminine 
impertinence, I protested to the officials, I was given the 
information that in order to reach Darjeeling we should 
have to ride over roads of three different gauges, broad, 
regular, and narrow gauge. Such a thing as a through 
train, evidently, has never occurred to them, and at one 
of the changes from broad to narrow one must needs rise 
at four-thirty A. M. Once more I protested in a loud 
voice. And I am. still protesting. In the twenty-four 

73 



74 All the Way 'Eound 

there are, I am confident, other hours at which one might 
easily depart and arrive. Uprisings and rebellions ! They 
were many and violent. 

Andes Dwarfed hy Himalayas 

Once on the way, however, my irritation would dis- 
appear. We who had crossed the Andes six times and 
who thought that nothing could equal, far less surpass, 
them in sublimity and grandeur, stood breathless in the 
presence of the Himalayas and the magnificent approach 
to Darjeeling. We were carried through the seemingly 
limitless and boundless plains of India of which so much 
has been said and written. No language can exaggerate 
the wonder, the curious and interesting blending of this 
plain, with the rugged, stern, and arid mountains. The 
winding railroad, one of the finest pieces of engineering 
in the world, twists, turns, loops, and once in its progress 
describes the figure eight, giving vistas of unusual beauty, 
showing glimpses far below of large rivers, which, when 
looked down upon, seem but tiny ribbons. 

After taking the narrow gauge road, we passed across 
a level grade containing a dense forest, where, we were 
told, tigers and elephants abound, and into which the 
natives never venture. In our hours of travel we passed 
beyond the altitude of bamboo and banana and left back 
of us the great Darjeeling tea plantations of which the 
world has heard so much. We passed through so many 



Beautiful Darjeeling; Mount Everest 75 

mountain villages where we saw new races of men — 
bright, active, Nepaulese men and women. I was hor- 
rified to see the latter so heavily laden. They wear a 
band across their foreheads to support the packs upon 
their backs. They were good natured, although some of 
them were very filthy, and all had beautiful white teeth. 
Their cheeks were painted a brilliant red. They were 
loaded with jewels, carrying all their wealth in corals, 
silver bracelets, and anklets. Stuck on one side of the 
nose were round, jeweled discs, some of which were twice 
the size of a silver dollar. Among the richer class these 
discs were made of gold, so beautiful and so expensive, 
that I decided I could not afford them. Frequently all 
that a woman is worth will be put into these gold discs 
to be worn in the nose. 

A Cold Hill Station 

The boundary line of Thibet is here, just beyond Dar- 
jeeling, and in these picturesque villages one sees this 
fine type of people — sturdy, open-faced, and in strong 
contrast to the Bengalese rice pickers and the other 
weaker inhabitants of the country. The extreme cold of 
Darjeeling makes it one of the favorites of what is known 
as the Hill Stations of India. These hill stations may 
well be called the lungs of India. How necessary they 
are when the extreme heat comes, only those who can 
flee to them know. Every one who can possibly manage 



76 All the Way 'Round 

it goes to Simla, Darjeeling, or some other hill station 
for the extremely warm weather. We did not get to 
Simla. It was winter when we were in India and the 
place was closed. But we could well understand from 
seeing Darjeeling, surrounded as it is by perpetual snows, 
what the cool breath must mean to those who swelter in 
the torrid heat of the lower places of India. I can truly 
say that I was never so cold in my life as I was in Dar- 
jeeling. Wrapped in furs and the warmest of clothing, 
I shivered continuously and could not keep warm. 

On these heights we frequently met with most inter- 
esting experiences. One of these was the fact that the 
porters were all women. The climb from the station is 
a hard one. We made it in jinrickshas, but the women 
made it afoot, bearing heavy luggage on their backs, held 
in place by the strap fastened across the forehead. As 
usual, though, they were laden with bracelets and rings, 
and they were soft-eyed and pretty to look at. In the 
bazaar, especially on Sunday, is to be found a seething 
mass of people — thousands of them, from many quar- 
ters — Bhootan, Thibet, Nepaul, and other places. They 
bring small stocks of wares for sale, small because they 
must climb over the pass of eighteen thousand feet in 
order to reach this market. Often they travel two or 
three days, sleep on the bare ground in the cold, and when 
their stuff is sold they have received for it but a few 
pennies. Yet they look happy and contented. 



Beautiful Darjeeling; Mount Everest 77 

View of Kmchinjinga 

"We saw here a curious old Thibetan temple. Outside 
were rows of poles, from each of which fluttered a slen- 
der jDennant — the offerings to their gods. On the inside 
were their priests, following their weird custom of beat- 
ing gongs to accompany their petitions. We found the 
bazaar very interesting. Darjeeling is a summer resort 
in the fullest meaning of the word, a picturesque town, 
summer home of the lieutenant-governor of India, who is 
also governor of Bengal. It has a barracks and a hos- 
pital. English troops are, of course, stationed here. 
Perched upon the side of the mountain, the city's front 
yard is the great valley which spreads out below, and 
out of which rise peaks eight, ten, twelve thousand feet 
high. The sky line is magnificent. Beyond, forty miles 
away, mighty Kinchinjinga, twenty-eight thousand one 
hundred and fifty feet high, lifts its lofty head. Next to 
Mount Everest, it is the highest peak in the world. Often 
in my life I have sat and mused upon whether one's 
dreams ever come true. Sitting here, looking out upon 
this glorious panorama, I no longer wondered. I know 
they sometimes do. 

Glories of a Sunset 

Oh, the wonder and the glory of that first sunset at 
Darjeeling! We had taken jinrickshas and ascended to 



78- All the Way 'Round 

a sight-seeing point. Huge banks of snowy clouds lying 
with peculiar effect below the mountain tops like soft, 
billowy blankets, rolled slowly down the sides. It was 
a curious and interesting sight, because the tops of the 
range were uncovered, the clouds below them. As the 
sun descended the clouds became crimson and gold, light- 
ing up the snow-crested Kinchinjinga and the neighbor- 
ing peaks with wonderful brilliancy. Suddenly, however, 
as if touched by the hand of a demon, the scene was 
transformed. The soft, rose-colored clouds below the 
mountains became an ugly gray. The wondrous heights 
of Kinchinjinga loomed angry and forbidding, almost 
black. Despite this, however, the scene was even more 
beautiful than before, for all this gloomy change was 
outlined against a sky of flaming brightness. 

Our real object in coming to Darjeeling was to visit 
Tiger Hill. It is six miles farther on and at an elevation 
of nine thousand feet. Here we were to obtain, if the 
gods were favorable, a sight of Mount Everest. As this 
mountain is twenty-nine thousand and two feet, very 
little beyond the height of the great Kinchinjinga, and 
as it lies a hundred and fifty miles away, one gets but 
the slightest peep at it, even if he is lucky enough to see 
it at all. Many people remain for weeks and for months, 
and are then compelled to leave without a sight of it. 
"We were fortunate. The peak was in full view for the 
entire three days that we were there, but on the fourth 



Beautiful Darjeeling; Mount Everest 79 

day it was covered again and remained so for weeks. 

It is a time-honored custom to see Mount Everest 
at dawn. I have already referred feelingly to the various 
uprisings which attended my trip through India. But if 
I had thought the previous ones trying, I certainly re- 
ceived the shock of my life when we visited Tiger Hill. 
I was informed that this uprising would take place not 
at dawn but at two-thirty A. M. Now, I had already 
discovered one thing, namely, that they always have a 
reason for everything they do, even the most disagreeable 
things which they require of the tourist, and I was soon 
to learn the reason for this. We were to see Mount 
Everest at dawn, but in order to do so we must make a 
climb of six miles to the top of Tiger Hill, from which 
the view is to be obtained. It was necessary, therefore, 
that each be in the dandy at three, sharp. 

On the Way to Tiger Hill 

These little conveyances are reclining chairs. Enter- 
ing ours, we were carried up the steep mountain, a truly 
wonderful feat being accomplished by our bearers, who 
made the six miles in two hours. After a cup of coffee 
and a piece of toast we made the start promptly at three. 
Never in my life have I experienced such a chill. Here 
in the heart of the Himalayas one surely finds himself 
in Nature's ice-box. Although prepared for the trip, 
armed with fur coats, warm woolen underwear, fur rugs 



80 All the Way 'Round 

above, beneath and around us, we were simply chilled to 
the marrow of our bones, as are all who make the ascent 
at this time of the year. In a dandy one lies at almost 
full length. AVhat I that night looked out upon was a 
sight the like of which I shall perhaps never see again. 
The glitter of the stars ! Never before had they seemed 
so near. On this six-mile trip up the mountain I saw 
fifteen shooting stars. Sirius, like a small sun, was send- 
ing down a brilliant line of light, and there were many 
other luminous stars unfamiliar to me. Overhead were 
the Big and Little Dippers, and Orion seemed an old, 
familiar friend. As we moved through the forest, in 
which, although dark, the trees being absolutely straight, 
I had glimpses of the starlit sky. But in the open spaces 
this jeweled firmament became a vision of pure delight. 
The Darjeeling men wear long hair, while the women 
chop theirs. This peculiarity, and the fact that my six 
stalwart bearers were such strange-looking men — a type 
I had not come in contact with before, formed the reason 
why I did not observe that they had picked me up in my 
dandy as if I were as light as a feather and that I was 
already a mile up the mountain ahead of the rest of the 
party. My husband has alw^ays claimed that for a woman 
who has as much self-reliance as I have, who is always 
at ease and certainly unafraid in her o^vn country and 
who (as he laughingly claims) rules her household with 
a rod of iron, develops an almost unbelievable timidity 



Beautiful Darjeeling; Mount Everest 81 

the moment she crosses the ocean. He declares that only 
in Europe or some other far-away continent is he really 
master of the family menage — that there his word is 
absolute law to me, that I never so much as cross the 
street without his permission. 

Panic-S trick en in the Dark 

With this sub rosa picture of our domestic relations 
you can well understand the wild panic which seized me 
when I realized that I was in the dense forest, in the heart 
of the mountains, with six men of a tribe recognized as 
the boldest and almost the most savage of the Thibetans. 
With the knowledge of the great unrest in India, with the 
hostility openly e\'inced toward the English, for whom 
we were constantly being mistaken, one can understand 
a little of my state of mind. I realized my helplessness 
in case of danger. My cries and calls to my husband 
received no answer. My haughty commands to these 
creatures to put me down and await the sahib met with 
absolutely no attention. I was simply frightened to 
death ! At last, however, reason came to the rescue. Like 
many other women, nervous, timid, frightened and wor- 
ried over the small things of life, I seem always to regain 
my poise in the emergencies. These emergencies, like the 
hill stations of this country we were visiting, may be few 
and far between, but also like them, they bring coolness 
and tranquillity and restore me to my normal state. So, 



82 All the Way 'Round 

reasoning with myself I accept the ine\dtable, no matter 
what it is. 

As I became less agitated I felt assured that these 
men, with their weird, incessant chant, were not, after 
all, intent upon murdering me on the way to Tiger Hill. 
Once the thought came to me I leaned back serene and 
calm in my little dandy and thoroughly enjoyed the 
beauty of the scene. But until we reached Tiger Hill, 
where I waited for fully twenty minutes before the rest 
of the party joined us, I saw not a soul. And for once I 
had a laugh on this redoubtable husband of mine ! He 
had to confess that he had passed through a similar ex- 
perience, his calls to the drivers and to me remaining 
unanswered. He was almost as disturbed as I had been. 
Of course, he says that he was troubled only because he 
knew of my nervousness and feared the effect of such an 
experience upon me ! Anyway, when he reached the top, 
he was distinctly and unmistakably glad to see me. 

The Monarch of Mountains 

On Tiger Hill we paused for the view of Mount 
Everest. Breathless we watched. Kinchinjinga stood 
out, absolutely cloudless, and when the sun, a red ball of 
fire, came up out of the rosegold mist it topped these lofty 
peaks until they resembled golden domes. Nothing can 
equal the glory and the beauty of this picture. No words 
can describe it. In South America we had crossed at 



Beautiful Darjeeling; Mount Everest 83 

sixteen thousand feet (at the Cerro del Pasco mines) the 
Andes. Here now were the glorious Himalayas, spread 
out before us in heights of twenty-seven and twenty-eight 
thousand feet. And towering above them all, at the height 
of twenty-nine thousand feet, rose Mount Everest, king 
of peaks ! In Bolivia, Lake Titicaca had shown us many 
glories. But here, between us and the great uncovered 
heights, lay the lower range covered with clouds, pink, 
yellow or rose according to the way that they were touched 
by the rays of the rising sun. This imposing lower range 
is Kinchinjinga and her companions, and thrilled as we 
were at sight of it we were much more affected when, 
turning only slightly, we obtained our view, and a perfect 
view it was, of the very top of Mount Everest — white- 
crowned monarch of the giant range. Unrivaled it stands 
before the world. Although wrapped in furs and almost 
freezing, we lingered in the radiance of this early dawn 
and were fired with enthusiasm. The Himalayan king 
and his snow-crowned subjects ! Who that has seen can 
ever forget? We looked across vast chasms to that far- 
away line of perpetual snows. A glittering wall of white 
lay before us, rent now and then by enormous masses of 
bare granite. The grandeur of this scene, glorified by 
the golden, spear-like shafts of light cast by the rising 
sun, there are no words in the language to portray. The 
sunshine heightens the beauty of the scene. By moon- 
light it is exquisite. Glorious as are the temples, the 



84 All the Way 'Round 

gopuras, the rivers and the plains of India, nothing can 
exceed the beauty of her mountains, nor can any words 
convey an adequate idea of the many marvels which here 
exist. 

Beggary in the Midst of Beauty 

But with all the delights, all the strange beauty which 
we have seen, the plaintive dejection of the natives haunts 
me yet. Half of India is begging. Her indigent are not 
only poor — they are filthy and diseased. Crippled, blind 
and maimed — you simply cannot go where they are not 
to be seen. They gather about you all the time. The 
people have the appearance of just seeming not to care ! 
What is, must be ! This is their hopeless attitude, and to 
look upon them takes away the pleasure of traveling in 
India. But — it is among this class of people that the 
teachings of Ghandi, the great reformer, are being most 
widely propagated. Gradually it is being absorbed. 
What will the harvest be? 

The next few years will tell the tale. If uprisings and 
revolutions are not born it will be because the English 
will take drastic measures for reform. The outlook now 
is one of aggressiveness on the part of the natives. The 
people want justice! 

To the American traveler the two hundred and twenty- 
five castes in India are not only puzzling — they border 
upon the ludicrous. Had we not had a good guide and a 
competent servant I fear we should have made many 



Beautiful Darjeeling; Mount Everest 85 

blunders. Tc me there is something excruciatingly funny 
in the knowledge that the street-sweeper may be of so 
high a caste that the Prince of Wales would contaminate 
him should he accidentally touch him while passing by! 
On the morning of our arrival in Bombay we were much 
mystified at the persistent and spectacular waving of 
hands by a water-carrier. It was finally explained to us 
that an apparent beggar standing near wished a drink. 
He was almost naked and filthy beyond description. But 
this high-caste gentleman could not quench his thirst 
owing to our proximity! We cheerfully removed our- 
selves to a safe distance, moved to do so, I fear, more 
because of his appearance than because we really felt that 
we might pollute his drinking supply. 

Discomfort in Travel 

I have already said that Indian railroads and cars are 
things to be avoided whenever and wherever possible. 
The traveler's comfort and convenience — even his neces- 
sary information — are not considered. Accustomed to 
comfortable travel elsewhere, and especially to luxurious 
travel in America, there were times when we were abso- 
lutely bewildered. The train possesses no such thing as 
a conductor. There is a man who looks at your ticket 
when you enter the station and again when you leave it. 
This is always at the gates. There are no porters. The 
traveler must know where to change cars, where to get 



86 All the Way 'Eound 

out for meals, where to — well, he has to know everything 
in regard to his trip or else he is completely lost. And 
when one has to arise at anywhere from two to four A. M. 
in order to catch a train he must awaken himself — or 
get left! 

After the succession of uprisings to which I have made 
frequent mention, I determined upon one thing — namely, 
that I should have at least two good nights' rest before we 
made the start down from Darjeeling. For, to add insult 
to injury, that train started back at the same unearthly 
hour. The next morning, therefore, in the icy cold of 
those fireless rooms, snugly ensconced in furs, water- 
bottles and other paraphernalia supposed to produce heat, 
I lay in bed in delicious languor, smiling to myself in the 
darkness when I heard the others making ready for the 
early start to Tiger Hill, completely satisfied that I did 
not have to arise until I was ready. 

Descent to the Plains 

The descent we found quite as interesting as the climb 
had been. We retraced our steps past the Darjeeling tea 
plantations, and on the way down came to a very fine 
Catholic college or institution of some kind — evidence 
of the manner in which the church finds its way to 
remotest heights. 

When I say that we feel that we have seen India pretty 
thoroughly I mean, of course, southern India. In spite of 



Beautiful Darjeeling; Mount Everest 87 

the drawbacks to travel which I have already mentioned, 
there is about the country a seductive charm. One always 
longs to go back. To this longing we are no exception. 
Already we are looking forward to the next journey when 
we may visit those parts of the country which by force 
of circumstances we had this time to forego. 



CHAPTER VIII 

madeas and maduba ; hall of a thousand pillaes ; golden 

lHjY tank 

IT WAS an awful night that we spent on the train which 
carried us from Calcutta to Madras. At every station 
natives pounded on the doors to know if we wished any- 
thing ! They waked us at four- thirty to ask if we wanted 
chota-Jiasri — the coffee and rolls which are served when 
one wakens, the regular breakfast coming some hours 
later. The chota-hazri habit, by the way, is very easily 
acquired. We found it a most agreeable one — except for 
the early hour at which it was brought. 

At Madras we got our first sight of the Bay of Bengal 
— such a beautiful sheet of water, but filled, we were told, 
with sharks and the most horrible reptiles. The bathers 
in it, therefore, are most cautious. These snakes run from 
two to ten feet in length and are more poisonous, if that 
were possible, than the cobra. We saw them in the 
aquarium — and that was quite close enough. Here we 
saw also what is called the bird fish, because its scales, if 
so they may be called, look like real feathers. One of 
these which we saw was most unusual. It was in color 
like the canary bird and was called the canary fish. It has 
feet. It walked on the bottom of the tank — the only 
member of the finny tribe I ever saw that walked on two 



Madras; Hall of a Thousand Pillars 89 

feet ! These bird-fish are the prettiest things imaginable 
— the bluebird fish, the butterfly fish, and others of sim- 
ilar name. Even in Honolulu, where the aquarium is so 
wonderful and the fish so varied, we never saw anything 
so beautiful or so gorgeously colored as these of the 
aquarium of Madras. Here, also, were sea horses and 
cows. These are rather rare. One does not see them 
often. 

Taking Up One's Bed 

There was a beautiful drive along the coast of the 
bay, and we drove to the church where St. Thomas, the 
doubting Disciple, is buried. I have spoken often of the 
poor train service of India, but it occurs to me now that 
I have forgotten to speak of the worst thing of all. There 
is no such thing in the country as a sleeping-car. One 
carries his own bedding, etc., a custom which I strenu- 
ously resented at first, but which, afterward, I found to be 
our greatest safety. With our own mattresses, which our 
bearers carried, and our own pillows, we managed to 
make ourselves quite comfortable. The othei*wise roomy 
compartments have nothing but hard benches, which must 
be softened by bedding if one wishes to travel in India in 
any sort of comfort. The compartments are supposed to 
accommodate four, but we found that a small tip (in 
American money) judiciously bestowed, worked wonders 
here — as elsewhere. What seemed to us like a very small 



90 All the Way 'Round 

sum, to them is a large one. We always managed to get 
a compartment to ourselves. At best, however, one's rest 
is far from satisfactory and at times the heat, together 
with my strenuous guide in the person of my husband, 
combined to render me almost desperate. As an example 
of the latter — it is the custom in all of these countries 
to go to bed and sleep from eleven till three. Eecuperat- 
ing in this manner daily, one manages to hoard his much- 
tried strength. The shops are closed between these hours, 
but — the temples are open. My husband realized that if 
we were living in India we should have to conform to the 
custom of the country ; otherwise, the climate always gets 
one sooner or later, no matter how great his virility. The 
anaemic look and pasty appearance is always present 
among foreigners. But he insisted that with my extreme 
youth (I am four times a grandmother!) and his enor- 
mous fund of enthusiasm, not to mention the short time at 
our disposal, we could accomplish anything! As a conse- 
quence, we went from morn till night. We took no time 
off. Wearily we fell asleep at night, only to get up and 
take a fresh start next morning. Finally I found that my 
enthusiasm equaled his. But it was a strenuous life 
while it lasted. 

BlavatsTcy School of Theosophy 

Near Madras is the famous School of Theosophy 
headed by Madame Blavatsky. We did not attempt to 



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Car of Juggernaut, Madras 



Madras; Hall of a Thousand Pillars 91 

visit it, much as I should have liked to do, but we were 
told that she has a large following of earnest students 
and co-workers, and a charming colony. As we crossed 
from Marseilles we met one of her devotees on the 
steamer, from whom we learned much of her and of the 
faith. There was a time, I believe, when Madame 
Blavatsky gave the government much anxiety and no 
small amount of trouble. But of late they have been 
working in unison for the betterment of the natives, and 
I frequently heard her school spoken of very highly by 
Englishmen. The member whom I met on the boat was 
a charming woman, intelligent to a degree. But I could 
not, nor can I yet, understand her religious belief. Like 
the Hindus, the Theosophists eat no meat. They take a 
vow not to kill any living thing. I longed to ask this dear 
lady what she would do if attacked by a swarm of poison- 
ous mosquitoes, or in case a nice big cobra should attempt 
to become intimately acquainted without introduction. 
But I refrained. I knew it would be useless. 

Bewildering Array of Animals 

One of the fascinations of India is its wild life. The 
mischievous gray crow, the tame mongoose (sometimes 
just a pet running about the house), the jackals walking 
around the streets of a town, making the night hideous 
with their peculiar sounds — these are among the common, 
every-day things that one sees. Calcutta, particularly, is 



92 All the Way 'Round 

full of jackals, and they are the scavengers of the city. 
It is the birds, however, which interest the visitor most. 
These are so many — gulls, very beautiful in their soft 
white-and-gray dresses, the parrots, the love birds with 
their blue and emerald sheen, the loveliest things I ever 
dreamed of, the paddy birds, the bulbuls, the magpies, 
robins, humming birds, bee-eaters, the egrets, walking 
about in the hot sun all day long following the buffalo 
cows — and many others that I cannot now remember. 
Of them all, however, the green parrots and the rose- 
colored lorikeets are the loveliest. Their bewildering 
brilliancy of plumage is act.ually so gorgeous that it beg- 
gars description. When they fly, gathering in flocks and 
chattering from tree to tree, it is truly a wonderful sight. 
I remember one occasion as we were driving home in 
the soft glow of the Indian sunset from the Taj Mahal, 
when we were suddenly attracted by a loud chattering of 
birds. We stopped to investigate and found dozens and 
dozens of these exquisitely-tinted creatures resting in a 
large tree. We sat for a while and watched them as they 
quarreled and scolded and fluttered about the tree, 
making a picture we shall never forget. However, the 
proportion of birds, profuse as they are, is small when 
compared with the other wild life of the country — the 
big game, as it is commonly called. Think of what the 
Prince of Wales (if the paper reports are to be credited) 
alone killed during his sojourn in India ! Tiger, leopard, 



Madras; Hall of a Thousand Pillars 93 

rhinoceros, sloth bear, \vild bear, black buck, chinchara, 
spotted deer, demoiselle crane, two kinds of partridge, 
seven or eight varieties of duck, two kinds of sandgrouse, 
and many others ! Add to this the domestic animals, such 
as the camel, elephant, buffalo, zebu, two kinds of 
monkeys, and even after all of these are counted one has 
but touched the fringe, as it were, of the wild life of India. 
One might stay in this country for years and yet not be 
able to see all that it contains. It is marvelous. 

Scenes on the Way to Madura 

Referring to my diary on the day that I entered 
Madura I find that I have inscribed the classical phrase 
*' Hot as blazes ! " This was on February third. From 
Madras we had been hot, dusty and uncomfortable all 
the way. The dust was terrific. I was horrified on 
awakening in the morning to find myself confronted by a 
tan-colored gentleman. I thought that a native had in- 
vaded my apartment. Later, however, I discovered that 
it was only my husband. And when I called his atten- 
tion to his personal appearance he assured me that I 
looked no prettier ! But the ride down had been inter- 
esting, if dirty. We passed numberless rice fields, saw 
mountains in the distance as w^ell as many little villages 
with mud huts and thatched roofs. The natives here are 
most picturesque, the men, wearing their black hair long, 
were different from any we had yet seen and were very 



94 All the Way 'Round 

savage-looking. Both men and women, however, were 
handsome creatures. All along the route, also, we passed 
huge idols, men on horseback with spears encircling them, 
elephants and other animals, carved either of stone or 
wood, we could not tell which from the train. Thousands 
of cocoanut trees laden with fruit met our eyes and when- 
ever the train stopped, so primitive was the location that 
the monkeys surrounded it, begging for food. With such 
interesting surroundings and experiences we forgot our 
discomfort and gave ourselves up to enjoyment. 

I have already said that in writing a book on India one 
could easily run into several volumes, and one of these 
would surely have to be devoted to her trees. Not one 
is without interest, from the flowering, flame-colored 
jungle tree to the superb, lofty umbrageous umbrella tree. 
The celebrated Bo tree, famed in song and verse as the 
Peepul tree — the one under which Gautama sat and 
which ever since has been known as the sacred tree of 
India, is surpassingly beautiful. The banyan has been 
so often described that I shall not touch upon it except 
to say that the largest one in the world is at Calcutta, the 
second largest at Madura. 

Thirty-six Thousand Gods 

Our first view of the Madura temple was at night. 
It was superbly illuminated. The next morning we saw 
that its color is a rich, creamy brown. Very gorgeous and 




Madura Temple 




Coolie girls, Madura 



Madras; Hall of a Thousand Pillars 95 

ornate, it is considered the finest example of Dravidian 
art in India. The fourteen elaborately-carved towers; 
the four immense gateways, and the golden dome — these 
are indescribably beautiful. These towers are of enor- 
mous height and even the fourteen smaller ones are 
carved with figures colossal in size, every feature of 
the human body, even to the smallest toe nail, being 
perfectly and accurately carved. The labor expended 
here is simply inconceivable, and one must always remem- 
ber the fact that these carvings are cut from stone or 
hard plaster. 

In this temple there are thousands of statues of 
Siva and his wives as well as all kinds of gods and god- 
desses. One must remember also that there are thirty- 
six thousand gods for the Indians to worship. And to us 
it seemed that most, if not all of them, were here in this 
one temple. The hideous god Ganesha figures largely 
here. He has the elephant's head, the legend being that 
he, the son of Siva, was guarding his mother's bed- 
chamber that she might enjoy an afternoon nap. He 
was told to let no one enter the room. His father, return- 
ing unexpectedly, the son denied him entrance, where- 
upon Siva promptly cut off his head. Finding his wife 
inconsolable over the loss of her son, he generously prom- 
ised that he would restore to him the first head he saw 
after leaving her chamber. This happened to be the 
head of an elephant. 



96 All the Way 'Round 

The Hall of a Thousand Pillars 
Every guidebook has described the Hall of a Thousand 
Pillars. It deserves all the beautiful descriptive lan- 
guage that has been expended upon it. The Golden Lily 
Tank also, so frequently photographed, is certainly a 
dream of beauty. But all the magnificence of statued 
halls, wonderful handicraft, lovely water tanks, etc., can- 
not hide the underlying filth of India. Ill-smelling, gar- 
landed cows stand about in the temple. This animal, 
being sacred, is worshipped everywhere. In clusters on 
the floor the pilgrims are eating their lunch, their offer- 
ings of fruit and food, fresh when brought, now lying 
rancid and spoiled, lending to the already nauseating 
odor of the place. 

One thing particularly offensive to the tourist is the 
odor of rancid butter, used in a very original way. The 
devotees, desirous of gaining some particular favor, buy 
pounds of butter (which is fairly expensive in India) and 
approaching the god as closely as the railing will per- 
mit, throw pounds and pounds of it at him till he is liter- 
ally covered with it. These offerings, of course, are the 
perquisites of the priests of the temple, and after the 
butter has lain there for several days they take it for 
their use ! It is certainly a large contributor to the un- 
pleasant odor of the place. I was so fascinated by this 
unique mode of decorating the god that I did not notice 
until my guide spoke to me that a yellow-garbed priest 



Madras; Hall of a Thousand Pillars 97 

was motioning me to move away. I was too close, it 
seems, and w^as in danger of contaminating the shrine ! 

At the Golden Lily Tank 

The Golden Lily Tank, which is unquestionably beau- 
tiful, is the center of this shrine. I could not ascertain 
the manner in which this tank is fed, but it has been so 
long used by the bathers that its waters are now dark 
and green. We watched the bathers, and here again was 
a novel method of taking a bath — even a ceremonial one. 
They plunge in, dry themselves on a bath towel, then 
proceed to rub themselves all over with dry cow-dung 
dust! This is a custom, by the way, which prevails all 
over India. The dung of the cow is sacred, the people 
who gather it are professionals. Walking after the cows 
in the street you can see them constantly, these profes- 
sional gatherers, waiting for the dropping. It is then 
dried in the sun and later sold to these fanatical Hindus 
in cakes for fuel, and for powder after the bath. As was 
the case at the Ganges, in this Golden Lily Tank the 
bathers drink this contaminated water, and when I asked 
if they did not regard it as polluted they replied " No ! " 
They are not permitted, they told me, to use soap. There- 
fore, they argue, the water is absolutely pure and 
hygienic ! There were a hundred and fifty thousand pil- 
grims visiting the temple at the time we were there, and 
the scene was one continuous, moving mass of color. 



98 All the Way 'Eound 

It was in this temple that I saw one more evidence of 
the dense unenlightenment of the country. On one of 
the pillars I saw a carving. It Avas that of a man and 
woman holding between them a child whose head they 
were cutting off. Asking the guide to interpret it for me 
I was told this remarkable story. There was an ancient 
custom (and it lasted until comparatively recently when 
England at last forbade it) whereby a childless couple 
would pray to the gods for a child, promising that should 
they be granted one of their own, they would at the age 
of one year, offer it as a sacrifice in order that they 
might have others! This carving represented this cus- 
tom, and is but one more specimen of the awful things 
which have existed in this country of bewildering beauty 
and dense ignorance for centuries. Fearing to appear 
prolix and to weary my readers I have not described one- 
tenth of the sights of the interior of this temple, one of 
the most interesting we saw in our travels. But I can 
see it distinctly yet — the kneeling pilgrims, the yellow- 
garbed priests, the sacred elephants, surely the most 
enormous beasts that I have ever seen and of which there 
were more than a dozen in this temple — as I revisualize 
the scene it seems naught but color, color, color! And 
though the rest of Madura, with its palaces and other 
places of interest, was one of the bright spots of our 
sojourn in the East, I feel that a description of this 
temple is sufficient as a picture of the place. 



CHAPTER IX 

CEYLON, THE PEAEL OP THE INDIES; KANDY ; TEMPLE OF 
SACEED TOOTH 

A FOUR hours' ride through a continuously interest- 
ing country of rice fields and villages, brought us 
to the spot where we were to catch the boat for Ceylon. 
A sail of two hours in the cool of the evening carried us 
to the latter place where we caught the train for another 
night's ride to Colombo which was our objective point. 
Here we relaxed. It was splendid to find in this far- 
away land the most comfortable hotel w^e had seen for 
many a day. Facing the Bay of Bengal, just a few feet 
from the edge of the shore we had a glimpse of the sun- 
set between those two palms, which have been photo- 
graphed doubtless oftener than any others on earth. 
After the strenuousness of our last few days in India 
it w^as surely delightful to rest at this luxurious hotel. 

Colombo is a modern city, therefore not of so great 
interest to the traveler as are the ancient and native 
cities. It has beautiful homes and clubs ; tennis and golf 
grounds, hospitals and stores, and over them all is a 
great charm. One lingers here more, however, because 
of the sheer beauty of its location, and our pleasure was 
heightened by the fact that we met here old friends from 
Chicago, Mr. and Mrs. Joseph A — and Mr. and Mrs. 

99 



100 All the Way 'Round 

Barney G — , the latter two youngsters, all six of us 
bent upon the same object, namely, to encircle the globe. 
AVhat jolly times we had gossiping of home, and the 
birthday of one of the members of the party was here 
celebrated in great style ! 

Ga^utama's Sacred Tooth 

Of course we went to Kandy to visit the temple of 
the Sacred Tooth. The tooth itself is sho^Ti but once 
yearly, in December. But we saw the wonderful library 
and jewelled books. The sacred tooth was, of course, 
Gautama's, but it is so enormous that the suspicion is, 
that the original tooth must have been lost and one of a 
crocodile substituted. The mountain scenery of Ceylon 
is very beautiful, the peaks are broken and jagged, the 
slopes and gorges green and wooded. The many winds 
and curves of the roads over precipices show beautiful 
valleys below. One day while we were here we took a 
ride up to Nuwara Eliya. Here were once huge coffee 
plantations, but now they have been supplanted by tea 
gardens. Some insect ruined the coffee plants and now 
very few of them are to be seen in Ceylon. 

Not far from here are the celebrated Paradeniya 
botanical gardens, established by one of the kings of 
Ceylon. They contain wonderful specimens of the palm 
— one of them being the talipot, which blooms but once 
when from forty to fifty years old, the bloom resembling 



Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 101 

ostrich feathers. After the blooming it dies. The gar- 
dens contain also nutmeg, clove, allspice, cinnamon and 
a great variety of pahn; the rubber tree, giant bamboo 
(two or three feet in diameter), and all kinds of beau- 
tiful flowers. It is a lovely spot, and Nuwara Eliya a 
charming place to rest, the altitude being a little over six 

thousand feet. 

Fruits, Flowers and Birds 

All through India we had seen the bullock carts — 
the little bullock snow white, with horns curving toward 
each other, which were most quaint and interesting. 
These little creatures trot madly about, like a pony, and 
in the picturesque little carts they draw the natives ride. 
The white man or woman, however, loses caste by so 
doing. They are the favorite mode of conveyance in 
Colombo. We were served many fruits in Colombo, such 
as the mango, but were disappointed in finding the 
custard apple, so delicious in Spain and South America, 
as tasteless here as sawdust. We had supposed that we 
should find it luscious here, but such was not the case. 

Many are the beautiful drives out of Kandy and on 
one of these I saw for the first time the sandal-wood tree. 
There were also satin-wood, mahogany, rubber, teak and 
ebony trees. The sandal-wood trees are scarce ; at least, 
if there were many, we could not recognize them. Beau- 
tiful parrots and bluebirds flew through these trees, and 
in addition to the white crane we saw again that won- 



102 All the Way 'Round 

derful egret bird wliicli we had seen in India, and such 

quantities of which we saw later in Burma. It is a 

curious fact that this spotlessly white bird should be 

attracted to the buffalo (the cow of Burma) the hide of 

which is unspeakably filthy from much wallowing in the 

mud. The egret bird, however, is always to be seen 

perched upon its back, supposedly for the purpose of 

picking off and eating the insects. Another tree which 

grows here bears the jack fruit, great heavy bunches of 

which hang down and upon which the natives live, also 

the breadfruit tree — none of the fruit of which we 

tasted. 

The Begging Elephants 

One day we went to the river to see the elephants 
bathe. This was an interesting experience — for more 
than one reason. The beasts have been taught to beg. 
We took with us quantities of bananas with which to feed 
them, but not unlike other beggars they sometimes threw 
away what was given them and put out the trunk a second 
time for something else. This second act is a request for 
money for their keepers and they become very solicitous 
about the latter. Needless to say we had some money 
ready. We presented it and promptly fled as they were 
becoming quite pressing in their demands. 

The most interesting sight of the streets is, of course, 
the people, especially the priests carrying huge leaves 
from the banana tree as a protection from the rain, after 



Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 103 

the manner of an umbrella. Here, too, one sees many 
specimens of the mongoose which kills the venomous 
snakes of India. Should a man find a mongoose in his 
yard he will make every effort to keep it. He regards 
it as a good omen and thinks himself lucky. Usually the 
possession of one of these little animals insured its owner 
against the entrance of the deadly cobra and other poi- 
sonous reptiles. Here the odor of the frangipani, a deli- 
cious perfume of what is here called the temple flower, 
was frequently inhaled. 

Some Wonderful Ruins 

One of our trips out of Kandy was to the deserted 
city of Anuradhapura. The ruins of Egypt have been 
visited for years. They have been known for centuries. 
But these of Ceylon have remained buried in deepest 
earth until a comparatively recent date. It has been 
known, of course, that great cities had once existed in 
the beautiful island, but those cities had vanished from 
the face of mother earth and now naught was to be seen 
of them. In the early part of the nineteenth century an 
Englishman, Lieutenant Fagin (that sounds pretty Irish 
to me !), came upon some of these ruins and wrote a little 
about them. This was in 1820. But it was not until 1871 
that steps were taken to uncover them. A few years later 
they were open for all the world to see and admire. It 
is a curious fact, though, that out of the thousands of 



104 All the Way 'Eound 

tourists who come annually to Ceylon few care to make 
the trip to these wonderful ruins. Practically everyone 
who makes the journey to Colombo goes to Kandy and 
then on to that charming resort, Nuwara Eliya. But 
few go to Anuradhapura and Sigiriya, two of the most 
famous spots of old Ceylon. 

To see the moonstones is alone worth the journey. 
They are so exquisitely carved. These, by the way, are 
nothing like the moonstones we know as jewels which 
come from the same island. They are large semi-circular 
stones sometimes found at the entrances to the temples 
of southern India. These in Anuradhapura are so very 
pretty, and are as fresh as on the day that they were 
carved, who knows how many centuries ago 1 The figures 
carved are those of the elephant, strange horses, bullocks 
and queerly-shaped lions. It has been at least two thou- 
sand years since this carving was done, and perhaps much 
longer, a fact which when remembered cannot fail to 
intensify the interest they hold. 

The drive hither from Kandy is from ninety to a 
hundred miles by motor. And we made the usual five- 
o'clock-in-the-morning-start ! But the ride was wonder- 
ful. We found the country flatter than the climb to 
Nuwara Eliya had been. There were a few cultivated 
villages, interspersed with stretches of real jungle — 
the jungle of the tangled vines and scarlet flowers, thickly 
mingled with trees, almost, if not quite, impenetrable. 



Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 105 

Here, we were told, tigers and elephants infest the place. 
Sometimes, when we would descend from the motor to 
view some scene of interest, we were amused to see tor- 
toises feeding on the ground just as rabbits do at home. 
The place was full of picturesque attractions. The great 
red pods of the cocoa hang over the road in clusters. 
The people of the plantations are at work, wearing their 
red saris and long, ornamental earrings, covering the 
whole of the extended lobe — one could scarcely exag- 
gerate the picturesqueness of the scene. 

Legend of a Remarkable City 

The story of this city, founded five hundred years 
before Christ, really reads like a fairy tale. A queen 
gave birth to ten sons. The eleventh child was a girl 
who was called Chitta. There was a prophecy to the 
effect that Chitta's son would destroy all his uncles and 
inherit the throne. - So they ordered her put to death. 
But, as is usual in fairy tales, she was secretly saved. 
She grew up and when her brothers discovered the fact 
they permitted her to marry on condition that should 
she have a male child she would slay it. This promise, 
also, failed of fulfillment. Her son, too, was secretly 
saved, grew up, defeated his uncles in battle and in grati- 
tude for the victory built this city of Anuradhapura. 

The brazen palace here is remarkable. It stood nine 
stories high and contained a thousand rooms. Many of 



106 All tlie Way 'Round 

its sixteen hundred stratified pillars are still standing. 
The palace of the queen, with its carvings of stone and 
jewels is wholly in ruins, but the remains may well be 
studied. At the entrance of the steps is to be seen the 
famous moonstone peculiar to Singalese architecture, so 
called because of its shape. There are colossal statues 
of Buddha, beautifully carved; wonderful elephants and 
other animals surrounding the temples. The ruins of the 
two hundred and fifty-six square mile city are so impres- 
sive, that one cannot but wonder at the perfection of the 
civilization which must have existed in this place, the 
history of which runs back into mythical antiquity. 

The Sacred Bo Tree 

Passing a calm Buddha we mounted a high terrace, 
from which we again ascended a flight of steps to a plat- 
form which surrounds the sacred Bo tree. They say that 
this tree was originally on ground level but has been 
built up this high by the use of rich and special soil and 
that the roots run far, far below the present surface. 
Through a set of railings we gazed at the tree which, 
whether it came from the sacred tree under which Buddha 
sat or not has attained sanctity on its own account be- 
cause of its great age. It is known positively that it has 
stood here for two thousand and two hundred years. A 
temple was formerly over it. Miracles are recorded of 
it. Feasts are annually held about it. Pilgrims come 



Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 107 

from far and near just to bow and pray beneath it. It 
is one of the eight sacred sites of the Buddhists. Such a 
tree cannot fail to inspire, even in the casual traveler, 
admiration, even reverence. 

Monks in yellowish, almost cinnamon-colored robes 
flit about, monkeys with their babies twisted about them 
climb the trees. Birds, ever flying and twittering sing 
above one's head. Pilgrims pass before you to bow 
before the oldest tree in the world. The natural skepti- 
cism of the West toward all such relics is silenced. Even 
I found myself cherishing the sacred leaf which one of 
the priests gave me in exchange for my husband's gift to 
him. In standing before these ancient ruins, recalling 
the former splendor of the place, one has a sense of deep 
respect if nothing more. In the midst of her dilapida- 
tion Anuradhapura retains her qualities of stateliness. 
Her Y/onderfully-carved Buddhas are imposing figures 
and her goddesses fill one with admiration. The mighty 
statues and splendid shrines still flank the dead city and 
bear mute testimony of Ceylon's past gTeatness. To 
come suddenly face to face with one of these dark, silent 
figures, fearful with repressed vitality, startles one, com- 
pels the attention. Their very solemnity, to say nothing 
of their size, is awe-inspiring. 

On the return trip to Kandy we made a detour to 
Sigiriya Hill, also of absorbing interest. It is an im- 
pregnable boulder rising above the three- or four- 



108 All the Way 'Round 

hundred feet of steps which we had climbed. There 1 
stopped, but my husband went the whole of the way. 
This enormous black rock, rising right out of the jungle, 
four hundred feet, on which these palaces, forts and 
elephant stables have been built, reminded us both of 
the Black Mesa of New Mexico, near Santa Fe. One who 
has seen Sigiriya will not, I think, easily forget it. This 
remarkable rock is an amazing sight, especially when 
one remembers that away back in the fifth century a 
king built his palace on its summit! The immensity of 
the labor ! Present-day engineers say it must have been 
one of the greatest engineering feats in all history. Yet 
here this king lived in state, with his zenana, his 
courtiers, his elephant stables, governing his people for 
eighteen years. Of course there was reason, in the olden 
days, for a monarch thus to protect himself from his 
enemies. Most of them chose a place for their palaces 
as nearly impregnable as possible. This particular king, 
it seems, had committed a great crime and was in con- 
stant fear of being murdered. Well — to my modern eyes 
this looks like a safe spot ! How anyone would ever have 
the courage to climb to the top even to be revenged on 
one's enemy is beyond my comprehension! 

The Rose-colored Throne 

In the center of the palace is a wonderful rose-colored 
throne from which this king (Kasyapa was his name) 



Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 109 

dispensed justice. What a farce for a man who had the 
black sin of murder on his own heart (he had killed either 
his father or his brother, I do not remember which) to 
sit there day after day, trembling in fear of his own life 
and administering justice to those not half so guilty as 
himself ! One day, however, so the story goes, he became 
either tired or reckless and descended from his lofty 
domain for a short time — only a few hours. His enemies 
had waited for this very thing. They surrounded and 
killed him. 

Even the height to which I had climbed presented a 
wonderful view of the jungle, a charming thing to look 
upon, with its carpet of green (the purest green we had 
seen with the exception of that of Brazil), and difficult 
to see beyond its beautiful scenery the man-eating tigers 
and other wild beasts which infest it. We were caught 
here in a tropical rain. One who has never experienced 
such can form no idea of the sheets of water with which 
we were drenched. Of course, a little episode such as 
this did not trouble us. For we had travelled either in 
clouds of blinding dust or wallowed in sloughs of mud ! 

Wild Men of Ceylon 

At Anuradahapura we were as close as we ever got 
(and it was close enough !) to that section of Ceylon where 
the really wild men dwell. As one goes about the world 



110 All the Way 'Eound 

he will still find many places where these people still live, 
but in so small an island as Ceylon, one so well-inhabited 
and so thoroughly cultivated, it would seem as though 
these wild creatures could be tamed. But I am told that 
the few who have been captured and forcibly detained 
have not warranted the attempt to civilize them. The 
experiment has never been satisfactory. Our civilization, 
seemingly holds no appeal whatsoever to them. These 
tribes to which I refer live in trees. They swing from 
limb to limb, like monkeys, and they live on the forest 
products as other wild creatures do. The greatest bar to 
civilization is their unreasonable fear of civilized man. 
Even those living nearest to them catch a glimpse of them 
very seldom. 

Back in our delightful hotel in Colombo we rested for 
two days preparatory to taking the steamer. I have 
failed to mention that bubonic plague, cholera and small- 
pox are so common in this country that we encountered 
them wherever we Avent. We learned here that all steam- 
ers were compelling prospective passengers to be vacci- 
nated for smallpox. Before leaving the United States 
we had been vaccinated at the same time that we took 
the typhoid serum, but we had failed to bring the certifi- 
cates which, of course, were now required. We thought, 
therefore, that this beautiful Ceylon, so up-to-date and 
clean, would be a good place to go to the English hospital 
and be vaccinated. The experience was unique. Never 



Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 111 

shall either of us forget it! We found at the English 
hospital one English nurse and no English doctor! The 
physicians were all natives! The fact that they had 
studied medicine in England did not make them English. 
We found the head man and stated our wish. He told us 
that all the vaccine was obtained from the same place and 
that it would be three days before he could get any that 
was fresh. He added, however, that if we ourselves would 
go to headquarters we could be vaccinated there in ten 
minutes. We decided to do this. In our presence he 
called the man in authority there by telephone and made 
arrangements for us to come. When we arrived we found 
there a perfect horde of people, ill of every sort of disease. 
They were being inoculated for bubonic plague, cholera 
and heaven knows what other loathsome sickness. The 
man whom we were to see was nowhere to be found. The 
attendants assured us that he had not appeared at head- 
quarters at all that day and that they themselves had 
been there since early morning. But they were most 
anxious to vaccinate us ! 

The Man of Mystery 

We decided not to take a chance on being inoculated 
for either bubonic plague or cholera — which chance, 
under existing conditions, seemed unusually good ! Back 
we went to the hospital. Again we interviewed the man 



112 All the Way 'Hound 

in charge, and agam, in our presence, he called up the 
individual at headquarters. The latter (we could easily 
hear the voice through the telephone) assured us that he 
was there and was awaiting us. To headquarters we 
therefore returned — only to have the whole performance 
repeated ! Again the attendants assured us that the offi- 
cial had not been there all day, that this was the only 
telephone in the house and had not rung at all. But — 
again they eagerly offered to vaccinate us ! Very much 
disgusted not only at their deception but their obvious 
inefficiency we decided to betake ourselves elsewhere. So 
we left without their attention. And I am still asking 
myself questions in regard to the episode. Who was the 
man of mystery? Whose voice did we hear through the 
telephone 1 With us the point was that we were en route 
for China which country would not receive us without 
this formality being attended to. However, there were 
other places where it could be done before we reached 
China. We decided to seek one of them. 

Among the very interesting things to be seen in Ceylon 
one must not forget to mention the waiters at the hotel. 
They wore very long hair, fastened up with large circular 
combs having two points in front. The combs are of 
tortoise shell and very handsome. The points curve out- 
ward in front giving an unusual, crown-like effect. This 
was at the Galle Face hotel in Colombo, and the peculiarity 
reminds me of a story quite as interesting. 



Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 113 

Crows as Pilferers 
In all foreign travel one must carry one's own soap. 
Never being able to get accustomed to this, I had several 
times in the Orient found myself just ready to step into 
a warm comfortable bath only to discover that there was 
no soap. This determined me to carry in each and every 
one of our several pieces of baggage a piece of soap. On 
my third morning in Colombo I discovered that my third 
piece of soap was missing. Petty thieving is so common 
a trait and so annoying that I called the chambermaid 
(who, by the way is always a /^e-chambermaid !) to remon- 
strate against this wholesale theft and to demand the 
restoration of my third piece of soap! Awaiting his 
arrival I made another discovery. My powder and powder 
box were also missing, and in the culprit's eagerness to 
get away he had spilled a lot of it on the floor. This was 
too much ! When the native boy arrived I began reading 
him a lecture. And it was not an extemporaneous speech 
either. It had been carefully prepared! Imagine my 
astonishment and wrath when he calmly denied that he 
had touched my belongings. Exasperated at his calmness 
and his denial I demanded, *' "Well, who did take them 
then ? " He replied, " The crows ! " 

I could not believe him, but leading me to the window 
he proved himself innocent. There on the roof below 
lay my powder puif , soap and various other of my toilet 
accessories which these dishonest birds had stolen. I was 



114 All the Way 'Round 

told afterward that they are the cleverest of thieves. As 

they never have screens at the windows in these countries, 

they can come in and go out at their pleasure. The only 

protection the guests have is provided by small boys who, 

stationed outside the windows, attempt to keep them away 

with bows and arrows. A short time after the episode 

of the powder and soap, while^ seated on the lawn having 

tea, one of these feathered criminals pounced down, picked 

up the napin, sandwiches, et al., and fiev/ away with them ! 

On another occasion I was lying in bed enjoying my chota- 

hazri when I heard a peculiar whirring noise just back 

of me. Turning I observed a crow perched upon a chair 

in my room. Had I not been tucked in under a mosquito 

netting (which w^e always used) I should have been more 

frightened than I was at this large, gray-black bird. It 

looked so enviously at my breakfast that I shrieked and 

my husband, laughing heartily at my predicament and my 

fears, came to the rescue and put it out. The crow of 

Ceylon is a nuisance. It is altogether too friendly and 

there are too many of them! One simply cannot get 

rid of them. 

Vieiving the Toddy Palms 

There are beautiful places to be seen out of Colombo 
and we made several very interesting excursions. One 
of these was to Kaltura, about thirty miles by motor. 
To reach it we rode through colorful bazaars, picturesque 
villages, forests of mahogany and teak-wood. I think 



Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 115 

no excursion that we took, and they were many, showed 
more characteristic Singalese scenery than this. We 
skirted the water. We went through the jungle where 
the toddy palms were plentiful. The latter, by the way, 
is to be found in India, Ceylon and Burma. And the 
toddy made from it is real ! One sees many small jars, 
or pots, on many of the trees to catch the sap. The natives 
love it, and as it is very intoxicating of course they misuse 
it. But the tree itself which furnished this (to them) 
delicious drink is a very beautiful member of the palm 
family. At Kaltura we visited also the school of basket- 
making. Here were thousands of beautiful Ceylon bas- 
kets in every shape and size — also hats of all kinds. 
They formed a perfect riot of color and we could not help 
purchasing a few. We had a personal interest in visiting 
Kaltura. My husband's father had often spoken of the 
delicious mangosteens he had eaten here. We hoped to 
be able to get some, but although we found the identical 
tree from which his were gathered (they claimed to re- 
member his visit !) we got no fruit. The season was over. 
On our return we stopped for tiffin at Mount Lavinia, 
a popular bathing-beach picturesquely situated among 
the rocks, the chief claim of which is its freedom from 
the man-eating sharks which infest the Indian Ocean. 
Many were bathing and enjoying the waters. Most of the 
beaches of Ceylon are known, however, as about the most 
dangerous spots on earth because of the sea monsters 



116 All the Way 'Round 

already referred to. I, for one, could not be induced to 
try it, although it looks innocent and enticing enough and 
the wonderful color of the water in all the southern oceans 
makes bathing in them alluring. The waters are either 
vividly blue, green or steel. They look as if they were 
painted. 

Priests Who Wear Beards 

Mount Lavinia hotel is perched upon a high hill and 
is really a lovely spot. I was interested in the appearance 
of the Catholic priests on the island. They were dressed 
in spotless white and wore long beards, contrary to cus- 
tom. However, this is for a purpose. They find it neces- 
sary to protect their throats from the dampness. I talked 
with one who had not left the island for twenty years. 
He was the picture of health and told me that he had never 
been ill. He was a Frenchman. Not all of them can say 
as much. Most of them admit that this climate is too hot 
to remain in it long without a change. I met missionaries 
of other churches also. They, too, are enthusiastic as to 
the devotion of the natives when once they are converted 
to a Christian faith. I went to Mass one day here at which 
there were hundreds and hundreds of devout natives. 
But the priest and I were the only two white people in the 
church. 

Ever since coming to India my husband and I had 
been searching for the Southern Cross which we had seen 
and adored in South America. We had not succeeded. 



Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 117 

however, in seeing it. Either it was below the horizon or 
else it rose later than we wished to sit np. But one wake- 
ful night at Kandy, looking out over the beautiful little 
lake on which the Temple of the Sacred Tooth is situated, 
we caught sight of it. With its four brilliant stars and 
its fifth faintly pale but distinctly visible this jeweled 
cross was unmistakable. It was splendidly brilliant. Its 
two glorious pointers, twin stars even more brilliant than 
the cross itself, were lying close to it. The astral triangle 
above, the false cross close at hand, there they lay — these 
three wonderful crosses for us to admire. It was a never- 
to-be-forgotten sight. Having discovered them we never 
again lost sight of them. We watched for them eagerly 
each evening until we were well up into China. 



CHAPTER X 

FROM RANGOON TO MANDALAY 

WE TOOK an English steamer for Rangoon, Burma 
— a boat of a line of which we had never heard in 
America, the Bibby Line. They certainly were nice to 
us. This lovely, clean boat, with a delightful party of 
people aboard, had not a vacant berth on its return trip 
to England. But going from Ceylon to Rangoon the list 
was far from full. There were many vacant cabins, and 
although we were paying for but one the captain insisted 
on our making use of two adjoining ones. This we did, 
thus enjoying our five days' water trip to the fullest. The 
sailors were Lascars, dressed in white, with red sashes. 
They went about in bare feet and the boat drill was most 
picturesque. I always have at sea a little feeling of un- 
easiness, due to the reflection that there is between me and 
eternity only a small plank ! But down here in the white 
foamy waters of the Indian Ocean and the Bay of Bengal, 
with a steady boat, I managed to forget it and thoroughly 
enjoy the sail. At night, when we looked for our three 
Crosses we found added to them the Big Dipper and the 
North Star — the first time we had seen them all together 
since we had left South America, five years before. 

A Country of Glorious Scenery 
Burma lies to the east of the Bay of Bengal. It touches 
China on one side and has Siam on the other. Her great 

118 



From Rangoon to Mandalay 119 

river, the Irrawaddy, has its head stream in Thibet and 
is navigable for about nine hundred miles. It has superb 
scenery, and it was one of our great desires to travel on 
it a bit, but we were doomed to disappointment. Between 
catching steamers (which run irregularly), making trains 
and avoiding the more infested districts of cholera and 
plague, we were obliged to give it up. We saw the great 
river, therefore, only from Rangoon and Mandalay. The 
forests of Burma are celebrated for their fine trees, and 
although we had seen flowering trees all through the 
Orient none could equal the beautiful bloom of those of 
this country. Such masses of flowers! Such glorious 
color ! The henna shades were many and beautiful. The 
pinks, purples, reds, yellows were innumerable. Every 
conceivable shade, it seemed, was born between the leaves 
of the Burmese trees. We sat at the car windows, riding 
through the rather flat country, and fairly reveled in their 
beauty. The soil here is said to be very fertile, requiring 
little or no manure. Rice, tobacco, sugar cane — these 
grow in large quantities, and of course here, as in India, 
we saw quantities of chili being dried. Carpets of bril- 
liant red or yellow, depending on the length of the drying 
of the peppers, would loom up in the villages as the train 
drew near, making bright patches of color in the land- 
scape. 

The quality and beauty of the Burmese silks are too 
Well kncwn to need more than mere mention. Never have 



120 All the Way 'Eound 

I dreamed of finer, more lustrous and beautiful ones than 
we saw in Rangoon and Mandalay. They tell us there 
that they never wear out. Well, I am going to test that 
statement, as I bought some lovely ones to bring home 
with me. The Burmese are short and thickly built. The 
men wear long hair, and they resemble the Chinese. Men 
and women alike dress handsomely, wearing the finest 
silks and gayest colors. Most of them — eighty per cent, 
I believe — are Buddhists, and nearly all of them are 
superstitious. They worship Nats — the spirits of the 
mountain forests. The Burman does this to avert mis- 
fortune, and he always makes a thank-offering to these 
Nats upon the birth of a child or at a wedding feast. 

The monks are the schoolmasters of this country and 
are held in great veneration. In 1824 the British govern- 
ment declared war on Burma and though the Burmese 
fought hard they were conquered. Still, until 1878 the 
kings of Burma were permitted to govern — of course 
under British restrictions. In this latter year, however, 
the king, Minden, died. His son, Theebaw, succeeded him. 
But he was lax in his administration and showed hostility 
toward the English. No remonstrance from the govern- 
ment had any weight with him. He declined to change his 
policy. Finally, after many unsatisfactory episodes in 
which the English suffered, and a long series of happen- 
ings disagreeable to the Burmese themselves, the Indian 
government decided to interfere. They sent word to the 



From Rangoon to Mandalay 121 

king, who was living at Mandalay, to treat their repre- 
sentatives with more respect. Theebaw's answer was to 
call all his own people together and ask them to rid him 
of the English. The result was that in November, 1885, 
the British went to Mandalay and without trouble took it. 
The king and his wicked adviser, Queen Supaya Lat, were 
sent to Rangoon and afterward to India where they lived ; 
he died in exile, his death occurring at a little place near 
Bombay in December, 1916. 

As yet Burma is visited little by the tourist. Travel- 
ing is rather primitive except on the main railroad. Ex- 
cept in Mandalay and Rangoon there are literally no 
hotels. When the tourist leaves the main line of railroad 
or steamer he must get the government to put him up in 
some bungalow it owns. And these dak bungalows are 
certainly primitive, just a bed, a chair and a tub. One 
carries his own bedding and cooking utensils. 

The pagodas and monasteries are, of course, the chief 
things of interest. The former nearly always have a ti 
(the sacred umbrella) over them. The Pengyi (priest) 
dwells in a little building called a monastery, but it is 
usually only one story high and built of teak-wood. It 
would be an indignity to a holy monk to have some one 
over his head. 

The approach to Rangoon is considered a very danger- 
ous one. The rapid current of the Irrawaddy contributes 
to this largely. An average of at least one man is the 



122 All the Wsij 'Round 

toll of death per day. We were told that for two nights 
before entermg Rangoon the captain never sleeps. I find 
in this statement a splendid Irishism! Would the lack 
of sleep be for the safety or the danger of those entrusted 
to his care? In order to reach Rangoon we crossed the 
Irrawaddy with pilots and went up another small river 
for about thirty-five miles. It was frightfully hot, and 
the usual red tape connected with the customs prolonged 
our entry for several hours. 

A Domestic Tragedy 

During this long delay I amused myself watching a 
young couple in whom I had become interested on the 
boat. He was a good-looking, very fair-skinned Burman 
belonging to a family which owned rich and enormous rice 
fields. He was about twenty-five or six. He had been 
educated in England and was returning to his own coun- 
try accompanied by a very pretty little wife (she looked 
not more than twenty) and a handsome child of about two 
years. When he told her that he came of a family of 
wealth he had not deceived her. This was true. But — 
all his people were at the wharf to meet them and the 
change which came over her face when she saw them was 
pitiful. I shall never forget it. For they were not white, 
these Burmans ! And she was quite unprepared for the 
contempt which she was now to find bestowed upon them 
by those of the white race ! They all greeted her affection- 



From Rangoon to Mandalay 123 

ately. But slie was in despair. Her husband had solemn- 
ly promised to take her back to England in three years, 
but, his father having died, he was obliged to remain 
in his own country for that length of time. When in a 
moment of confidence, and longing for sympathy, she 
told me that she did not know how she could endure the 
experience of staying here for that length of time, I 
advised her to interest herself in the problems of her 
husband's country — to foster a movement for the better- 
ment of woman here, and to interest herself in kindred 
lines of thought. In doing so, I asured her, the time would 
pass much more quickly. She brightened and thanked 
me and promised to take my advice. Ten days later, how- 
ever, friends who had seen her since I had, told me that 
she was in a deplorable state — that the very hot hours 
of the day in Rangoon when all the family clustered 
around her (really attempting to be nice to her) were 
to her the most trying things on earth. She was becoming 
hopeless in the face of it all. I hope and pray that ere this 
she may have regained her poise and that she finds herself 
equal to her difficult task. Poor woman, I know no better 
example of the tragedy of the marriages (and they are 
many) which take place between white women and men 
of the Asiatic race. 

When we landed in Rangoon, the British capital of 
lower Burma and the city so celebrated for its famous 
pagoda, the Shwe-Dagon, we were quite thrilled, and of 



124 All the Way 'Eoimd 

course our first visit was to it. Here we met, however, 
with another great disappointment. The priest who met 
us informed us that if we wished to go through it we 
must do so barefooted. "We declined. With leprosy and 
cancer all through these hot countries, with the bubonic 
plague right in Eangoon and with various other horrible 
and unmentionable diseases to be contracted we refused 
to remove our shoes and stockings. Hookworm, very 
prevalent in India, by the way, is another delightful thing 
easily contracted through the feet, and so, despite the 
fact that we had longed for a sight of the Golden Pagoda 
of Rangoon all our lives we decided to be wise and 
forego it. 

This rule in regard to the bare feet, I might add, is 
but a recent one. It is not one of the ancient customs. It 
is due to the silliness of an English lord who became so 
enthusiastic over the pagoda that he pulled off his shoes 
and stockings and walked through it in his bare feet to do 
it honor. Since this act — only a few months have elapsed 
— the native priests have made it an iron-clad rule. Hence 
our disappointment. 

Relics of Gautama 

The Shwe-Dagon is the finest, the most venerable and 
the most universally visited pagoda in Indo-China. Its 
peculiar sanctity is due to the fact that not only are there 
actual relics of Gautama there but also of the three 




A Holy Man, Rangoon 
Golden Pagoda, Rangoon 







Great Bell at the Arakan Pagoda, Mandalay 
Burmese women at prayer, Arakan Pagoda, Mandalay 



From Rangoon to Mandalay 125 

Buddhas who preceded him. For this reason it attracts 
countless pilgrims from all parts of the world. They 
flock here from Cambodia, from Siam, from Korea and 
Ceylon. When we saw the lepers in every state of that 
terrible disease, even with toes and fingers eaten off by it, 
and when we viewed all the other loathsome diseases 
which can so easily be caught we were not sorry that we 
passed it by, although friends of ours did go through and 
seemed to feel that they had run no risk ! Yet — it takes 
an hour and a half to walk around the interior ! Nothing 
could have induced me to do it in bare feet. Three hun- 
dred and ten steps have to be climbed. Think of all the 
people who have climbed them ! The pagoda is two thou- 
sand or more years old, has vast treasures in jewels and 
is said to contain several of Gautama's hairs. It stands 
on a hill and its superb golden tower, three hundred and 
seventy feet high, easily dominates everything in Ran- 
goon. 

The tower is bell-shaped and has the ti, or sacred 
umbrella, in gold at the top. It is constantly being re- 
gilded. A year or so ago an enterprising Burmese lady 
of wealth, contributing largely toward the regilding, sug- 
gested that the tower should be gold plated. This, of 
course, will be most expensive but when done will last for- 
ever. Her suggestion has been adopted, and all the con- 
tributions received are being put into a common fund 
for this purpose. Up to date it has been finished to the 



126 All the Wa}^ 'Round 

extent of eight feet, beginning at the top. The interior 
is a magnificent sight by day. When lighted it is just 
like fairyland. Row upon row of lights encircle the tower, 
also, and as one drives about the park in which it stands 
it is always in view. The base of the tower is on a plat- 
form about eight hundred feet square. From a distance, 
when the sun is upon the tower, it looks like a mountain 

of gold. 

All Must Pass Through Priesthood 

Every Burman, rich and poor, prince and pauper alike, 
must pass through the priesthood. Therefore one sees 
many young boys, dressed in the two shades of yellow 
affected by the Buddhist priests, picturesque and orna- 
mental. They mingle harmoniously with the riotous 
shades of crimson and blue which the women wear. The 
priests shave the head and I believe they live on alms. 
These little yellow-robed boys go about from house to 
house with their rice pots, begging food. The novitiate 
is from one to three years. The Poonghees are very much 
respected for their holy calling and they seem to be at 
least a third of the population. 

Burma is a country of pagodas — thousands upon 
thousands of them. They pop up upon the landscape 
every few minutes. I could not understand the necessity 
for so many until it was explained to me that a man who 
builds a pagoda is bound to be saved! There are said 
to be twenty-five thousand within a few miles of the Irra- 



From Rangoon to Mandalay 127 

waddy river. The man who gives the money to build one 
is regarded as holy, and is promised that in transmigra- 
tion he shall escape from any loathsome and degraded 
form. Naturally, therefore, everyone wishes to build 
one, large or small as the case may be. 

One of the sights here was that of the elephants at 
work in the timber yards. This is remarkable. They 
draw the logs, often three feet in diameter and forty feet 
long. A man sits on top of the elephants with a stick 
with which he prods them and by this prodding they are 
guided in their movements. Huge and ungainly in ap- 
pearance as they are they step daintily among and over 
the logs, placing their feet carefully. They never slip. 

Another Interesting Pagoda 

Next to the Shwe-Dagon the Sule Pagoda is of great- 
est interest. The former was built in 588 B. C. But the 
latter also attracts attention and as it was near our hotel 
we spent much time examining its curious shrines. There 
is another of these numerous pagodas of which I find that 
I have not recorded the name. But it has a huge reclining 
Buddha in front of it, so large that the cavity of the ear 
can accommodate three persons. Thousands visit this 
Buddha every month. The monasteries of Burma are 
numerous, too, and the shops wonderful, the native handi- 
craft of silver, curious bead work and silks being unusual- 
ly interesting. Also, every tree common to Burma is 



128 All the Way 'Round 

found in the lovely gardens of Rangoon, and here we spent 
a delightful afternoon with a friend who is a well-known 
writer — Warren Hastings Miller. He was writing at 
that time a story the scene of which was laid in Rangoon, 
and he had come to Burma for color. He certainly got it. 
We all did. He was so well informed upon the subject 
of the trees and flowers that it was a delight to listen 
while he talked and explained them. 

As I have said, we saw the Shwe-Dagon only from 
without. At the entrance are two gigantic leogryphs — 
queer looking objects resembling colossal lions. On the 
other side of the entrance is the usual sight — a line of 
beggars, horrible creatures suffering from the terrible 
diseases rampant throughout the country — up the flight 
of steps little shops, a bazaar where they sell the gold 
leaf to plaster the gods with and curios for the pilgrims. 
The platform, we were told, is never deserted. Long after 
midnight the pilgrims still pray there. On feast days it 
is a joyous crowd, in their gay national dress, youths and 
maidens singing — one of the finest sights in the world. 

Burmese are Gay 
To one who has been touring India the sight of the 
gay, light-hearted Burmese comes as a great relief — a 
strong contrast to the depressed and oppressed Indian. 
One is instantly struck with the change. These people 
are cheerful, happy, contented-looking. They have not 



From Rangoon to Mandalay 129 

that liopelessness of expression that one sees constantly 
in India. The women are very pretty, some actually 
beautiful. They are yellowish of tint, not dark, and both 
men and women are handsome. They are self-possessed, 
yet without boldness, graceful and easy of deportment. 
They certainly are good to look at. They have magnif- 
icent hair, long, black, thick and glossy and from the 
rear one cannot tell whether one is looking at a man or a 
woman. The dress of the woman is different from that 
of the man, but from a distance this is not noticeable. Her 
garment is a strip of cotton or silk reaching from the 
waist to the ankles wrapped around her figure and girded 
at the waist. About her bust she has another strip and a 
scarf fastened over one shoulder and falling under the 
other so that she can spread it at will. The coolie class 
cut their hair. The tamein is nearly always a brilliant 
red. No matter what other colors it may contain there 
is always a predominance of red. The women are coquet- 
tish, often wearing flowers in their hair. The men are said 
to be the laziest on earth. Perhaps this accounts for their 
good nature! It is said that their long adherence to 
Buddhism has schooled them to a life of idleness, that 
their days are so peaceful and quiet that they are never 
ill-tempered. Whatever the explanation they work only 
occasionally. They plant their paddy-fields (rice), cover 
them with water and then there is nothing else for them 
to do until the harvest. When the man gathers his crop 



130 All the Way 'Round 

— the only thne when he works with energy — he again 
returns to his time-honored custom of just basking idly 
in the sun. And deadly as the tropical sun is to a white 
man it troubles the native not at all. The women, how- 
ever, have the reputation of being very industrious. She 
gets the meals, cares for the children, w^aits on the little 
shop and is never in purdah as her Indian sisters are. 
In most cases she is decidedly the boss of the household 

— as she should be. She wears all the jewelry she can 
possibly afford, her fingers and ankles and toes are simply 
covered with it. 



CHAPTEE XI 

A NEW " SEPTEMBER MORN f BURMA ; A BURMESE WEDDING 

IT IS a joy to see the world. But it certainly makes 
one appreciate one's own America and one's own 
Chicago ! 

Our ride from Rangoon to Mandalay was from five 
o'clock one afternoon to one-thirty the next — a dusty 
and for the most part uninteTesting ride through a flat 
country. But the flowering trees in Burma are things 
to dream of and they were plentiful along the route. 
They are as large as our southern magnolias or big live 
oaks, and when they burst into bloom, with all the luxuri- 
ance of the tropics, there really could not be a more won- 
derful sight. The differently-colored birds rest in them, 
their vivid plumage of green, blue and yellow making a 
striking picture, and everywhere, by the thousand, one 
sees the egret. This latter is a bird very much like our 
white heron — -in fact, I thought it at first a small heron. 
Wherever one sees the buffalo one will see also the egret, 
although the contrast between the filth of the former and 
the snow- whiteness of the latter is startling. The buffalo 
delights to wallow in a muddy stream, and both buffalo 
and muddy stream are plentiful in Burma. 

It does not rain here from November to May. Hence 
the dustiness of our ride. As to the heat, it was so great 

131 



132 All the Wa3^ 'Eound 

that we were obliged to have the windows open and the 
punkahs going. The night on the hard benches — remem- 
ber that there are no beds or sleeping cars in this coun- 
try — we are not likely to forget. Kipling's poem has 
made Mandalay famous, but the traveler will always be 
disappointed if he expects to find it as Kipling described 
it! Still, it is full of interest. The sight of the seven 
hundred and thirty pagodas is alone worth the visit. 
These pagodas are small and were built by the king, 
Theebaw, to preserve the sacred slabs of Sanskrit from 
the weather. It is not only curious but a very pretty 
sight as one walks among them. 

Women Lead as Smokers 

The w^omen with their coal black hair dressed high 
in a round, turban effect are stunning. But they look 
so funny smoking their enormous cheroots! For, as I 
have said, the women all smoke. The largest cigar a 
man ever used is small in comparison with the Burmese 
lady's cheroot! Earrings are worn a great deal, and I 
saw one women pass who wore a thimble in her ear! 

Mandalay inhabitants are nearly all Burmese. In 
Rangoon the Hindu prevails. It seemed to me quite 
curious, that here in Burma they called the Hindus natives, 
while they referred to the Burmese as Burmese. Man- 
dalay's palaces and temples are rapidly falling to pieces. 
They are built mainly of teak-wood and are handsomely 




A palace, Mandalay 




Grounds of a palace, Mandalay 




.•^5&<-'" * 



Entrance to a palace, Mandalay 



Burma; A Burmese Wedding 133 

carved. Even in their decay, however, they are most 
beautiful, especially the palace of the queen. It is a mass 
of exquisite wood carving. Once the figures were all 
gilded, but now the gold is mostly worn away. There 
is a lavish richness about these buildings which catches 
the attention and makes it hard to forget them. They 
have in Mandalay a w^onderful bazaar near which is the 
large pagoda. This bazaar, the Zegyo, was perhaps the 
most interesting of any that we saw. The lustrous Bur- 
mese silks, celebrated the world over, were here in large 
quantities as well as much beautiful and artistic handi- 
craft. The interest w^as heightened by the fact that 
here were gathered all the tribes from the surround- 
ing countries, come to sell their native wares. Even 
from China they had come. Squatted in their small 
stalls they were as varied a gathering of strange, queer 
and in some cases wild people as could easily be found. 
We felt here that we were really in the heart of Burma. 

Putting Up at a Bungaloiv 

There are no hotels in Mandalay. We occupied one 
of the dak bungalows to which I have already referred, 
run by the government for travelers in towns and cities 
where there are no hotels. Our rooms contained bed and 
mattress, wardrobe and chair and a large tub for bath- 
ing, nothing else — except a mosquito bar! Our own 
bedding we carried with us, of necessity. Our own serv- 



134 All the Way 'Round 

ant waited upon us at table. At the dak bungalow one 
man is provided. But he cooks, nothing else. Still, we 
managed fairly well. One soon learns not to expect 
luxuries in traveling through India and Burma. 

The Arakan pagoda at Mandalay is very interesting. 
It is said to be (after the great pagoda at Rangoon) the 
most beloved and venerated in Burma. The colossal sit- 
ting Buddha (Gautama) is a wonder, and as usual all 
the worshippers were salaaming and making offerings 
before it. One form of offering is to buy gold leaf to 
paste on the image. We always pay a bit toward this 
as a sort of entrance fee. We watched our bit of gold 
leaf put on, and we were told that this enormous figure 
was already plastered five and a half inches deep ! These 
poor fanatics! They certainly give generously! 

Threatened hy Fanatics 

I had in Mandalay an experience which I shall not 
soon forget. There is usually a little bazaar in front of 
a pagoda where the natives have things for sale. Two 
Americans, Mr. and Mrs. W — from our dak bungalow 
were with us, and we wandered along while they were 
buying some things. Continuing through the bazaar I 
was attracted by a pretty young woman, her good-looking 
husband, and their baby about two years old. They were 
seated, or squatted, rather, on a mat in front of their 
wares, eating rice. The rice bowls were in front of them, 



Burma; A Burmese Wedding 135 

and they were eating the rice with their fingers. The 
baby, following the example of his elders, was dipping 
his hand in also, eating as they were. He was a cunning 
thing and I stopped to look at him. He remained in that 
position, not moving his hand. The man and woman 
smiled at me and continued eating, but the baby remained 
immovable. Suddenly I realized that he was frightened. 
He let out a yell and burst into sobs. The mother, still 
laughing, picked him up. I apologized, said I w^as sorry 
(which she probably did not understand) and moved 
away. The child continued to cry. 

My husband said " I will call our friends. Wait for 
me here." As I turned I saw two Buddhist priests look- 
ing at me. They were not six feet away, and if ever I 
saw hostile glances they gave them. I called to my better 
half " Look at these men ! " He did look. " You cannot 
remain here alone, " he said. " We will find our friends. " 
The priests began talking excitedly. The child continued 
to cry. At last we saw our friends approaching. The 
child's parents seemed not to mind, but these priests — 
there was no doubt that they were furious and were dis- 
cussing me. 

Our guide took in the situation, hastened up to them 
and after a few moments' conversation the priests turned 
sullenly away. He said they were very angry, said that 
I had frightened the child by means of the evil eye ! But 
they calmed down when he assured them that we were 



136 All the Way 'Round 

American and not English. Had we been English I am 
confident that my time would have been up. I did not 
know then what my husband had seen printed in the dak 
bungalow — a warning to be careful in all temples, as the 
priests were hostile and likely to make trouble for the 
slightest offense. Nor had I then heard the story of a 
young Englishman who, a few weeks previous, was walk- 
ing quietly through one of the temples when a native 
praying sprang to his feet with a long knife (which they 
all carry) and cut off his nose. It is the priests who are 
making all the trouble in Burma, and it is my belief that 
there will be much more of it before there is less. 

The Story of "September Morn" 
We were glad to leave Mandalay. During the twenty- 
four hours of our stay there were forty-eight deaths from 
bubonic plague — two for every hour. In the short time 
that we stayed we managed to crowd a good deal of 
experience. After the Arakan Pagoda and the bazaar we 
went to the Ma Kim's for purchases. She was lady-in- 
waiting to the queen, Supaya Lat, and her husband was 
high commissioner to the king, Theebaw. Ma Kim was 
elderly now, and was selling her possessions — all the 
jewels which the queen had given her and various other 
treasures, that she, now a widow, might retire to a nun- 
nery. We Lad made an appointment to visit her shop, 
but we were detained and she had decided that we were 




Entrance to the Queen's Golden 
Monastery, Mandalay 



Detail. Queen's Golden Mon- 
astery, Mandalay 

Queen's Golden Monastery, Mandalay 



Burma; A Burmese Wedding 137 

not coming. So she had begun her bath, preparatory to 
eating. This bath was in the fountain in the center of 
the yard in the rear, and she was perfectly visible from 
the store when we entered. This yellowish-tinted lady, 
with gray hair streaming, was a perfect September 
Morn! Embarrassed? Not that one could notice. We 
were the ones who were fussed, that is, I was. I turned 
away. But my husband, I am sorry to relate, asked the 
guide to ascertain if she would permit him to photo- 
graph her. I was horrified. Ma Kim was not. She con- 
sented at once. So the former Mayor of Chicago brought 
back with him the picture of a second September Morn — 
a little darker of tint than the much-talked-of original 
but very attractive. 

Ma Kim was a very interesting old lady. After she 
dressed and came into the shop she showed us the beauties 
it contained, and they were many. We bought all that 
our purse would permit, amber beads and silver orna- 
ments which the queen herself had often worn. As we 
returned I saw a man and woman chained together, going 
under guard to prison. It looked awful. They seemed 
just like two poor beasts. They were accused of murder 
and probably deserved what they were getting. But I 
was on the alert for all in this country which concerns 
women. And I had never before seen a woman chained ! 

As we were driving through the streets of Mandalay 
one morning on the way from one bazaar to another, our 



138 All the Way 'Eound 

Moslem guide who was cocked up beside the driver (look- 
ing for all the world like a bearded monkey !) brought the 
gharry to a sudden halt. Sweet strains of minstrelsy 
were floating from an upper window. He proceeded to 
investigate. In a few moments he brought word that a 
Burmese wedding was in progress and that we might 
take a peek if we so desired. As we entered the lower 
floor (a shop which had been given over to the festivities 
of the day) the guide announced us as Americans. At 
once a young, well-dressed Burmese stepped forward 
to greet us. With a smile and a wave of the hand toward 
the stairway he invited us in good English to ascend to 
the upper floor, where the real festivities were in prog- 
ress, assuring us of a hearty welcome at the wedding of 
his sister. 

At the head of the stairs we met the father and mother 
of the bride to whom we were presented, and then passed 
into a rear room where the bride was squatting in the 
center of a group of four girls, all go^vned in the finest 
of Burmese brocaded silks of the brightest and richest 
hues. The wedding bed, hung with silks as draperies and 
decked with silken coverings (even the pillow cases were 
gorgeous), presented all the hues of the rainbow. At the 
front of the upper floor was a large room where the main 
guests foregathered. At this hour of the day — it was 
about noon — there were only women present, but we were 
told that at about four o'clock the men would follow the 



Burma; A Burmes e Wedding 139 

groom and then the real ceremony would take place. 

A Scene of Beauty 

There were six lines of women, young and old, in this 
room and I counted sixteen in each line. A few scattered 
(not in line) brought the number to about a hundred. 
The color here was a marvel, for these were the rich 
people of Mandalay and they were dressed in the finest 
silks for which that district is famous. Mandalay is in 
the very heart of the Burmese silk-weaving industry. 
Every color was represented, from the most delicate to 
the most garish, from the softest of pinks, yellows, blues 
and violets to rich magentas, scarlets, and greens that 
almost hurt the eyes. No sunset that I ever saw could 
match the combination for sheer beauty of contrast in 
tones. Not only were the women wearing their finest 
apparel. They wore also all the jewelry allowed by the 
laws and ordinances of the province. Arms and wrists 
were fairly weighted down with golden armlets and brace- 
lets. Fingers were decked with all fashions of rings. 
Around their necks were all manner of bejeweled gee- 
gaws, in their ears rings containing the most glittering 
stones. There were diamonds as large as birds' eggs 
which, in spite of their outlandish cutting, flashed with a 
splendor truly oriental. 

In front of each woman stood a small table of teak- 
wood with embossed silver trays and dishes filled with 



140 All the Way 'Round 

sweets, candied fruits, tidbits and fanciful dainties. At 
the door leading into this room sat three attractive girls 
each with a large, heavily-embossed silver bowl on her 
lap. One was filled with pink roses, a second with fans, 
and the third held cheroots made in cigarette fashion but 
too huge to pass by that name. They were at least eight 
inches long and close to an inch in diameter. Each woman 
as she entered was handed a rose, a fan and a cheroot. 
And she promptly made use of all of them ! 

Some Memorable Music 

This second floor of the house was divided into three 
sections, though there were no permanent partitions. 
Perhaps in ordinary times each room was separated from 
its neighbor by movable partitions, in Japanese fashion. 
Between the rear room, where sat the bride and her at- 
tendants, and the large front room where Mandalay's 
high society had foregathered in a very riot of kaleido- 
scopic color was a central chamber, a sort of reception 
room where stood the parents of the bride to welcome 
each new arrival, to show them first the room where they 
might congratulate the happy maiden, then to the room 
where they might gossip with acquaintances while filling 
their tummies with sweets and their lungs with the fumes 
of cheroots. At the front sat tlie three girls who doled 
out the roses, fans, and cheroots. On one side were placed 
four chairs which we occupied as chief guests. On the 



Burma; A Burmese Wedding 141 

far side sat the musicians of whom there were four. A 
tiny piano-like instrument was played by an artist who 
tapped the keys apparently as the spirit moved him. 
Perhaps he followed some line of oriental harmonies, but 
to a tyro in musical matters like myself he seemed to play 
a game of musical hit or miss, utterly regardless of con- 
sequences. 

It was oftener miss than hit. What he did to the 
muse of music was a crime! Another artist played an 
accordeon of the octagonal-ended species (not the oblong- 
ended breed) in an equally happy-go-lucky spirit. A third 
coaxed dulcet harmonies from a flute, and his efforts 
really approached what we benighted Caucasians are in- 
clined to regard as real music. The fourth musician was 
a serious-minded Burmese over whose head sixty odd 
summer and winters had flitted without his being rendered 
permanently hors de combat by cholera, enteric, smallpox 
or bubonic. His was the star performance. In front of 
him he had laid a small section of the giant bamboo, 
perhaps a quarter of the entire trunk cut out of the log 
between knots, leaving the ends open. It lay on the floor 
with the hollow underneath. In his left hand he held a 
short hardwood stick, probably a piece of pyingado, said 
to be harder than railroad iron. On the thumb and fore- 
finger of the right hand were two tiny, silver, bell-shaped 
affairs. From time to time he lifted his voice in song. 
A Burmese crow rather than a Caruso had been taken as 



142 All the Way 'Round 

a model for his vocal accomplishments. Singing the 
equivalent of three or four lines of an English poem he 
would pause to give the bamboo stick a resounding whack. 
Then with a most coquettish, coy, kittenish, mincing 
manner he would tinkle the silver bells, the notes of which, 
as might be expected, being quite lost, drowned out by 
piano, accordeon and flute — a fact which bothered him 
not a whit. Evidently, to his way of thinking the tinkle- 
tinkle of those bells was the most important part of the 
entire musical program. 

This wedding had made us forget for a brief time the 
distressing things which constantly confronted us. One 
of these is the nightly processions begging the gods for 
mercy and protection from the cholera, the smallpox, and 
the plague, all of which were raging. They kill a goat 
and sprinkle its blood in the infected districts. While 
in Rangoon we were only two blocks from one of these 
districts. We have seen the processions. They jangle 
bells, play music on their queer flutes, sing and carry 
banners. We knew the risks when we came and so did 
not worry. But I was glad when the time came to sail ! 



CHAPTER XII 

MALAYSIA, PENANG, THE SNAKE TEMPLE, EAST AND FAR EAST, 

SINGAPOEE 

FREE from the deadening effect of caste and seclusion 
the Burmese are a merry, if indolent, people. One 
leaves their country with pleasant memories, that is, if 
one can forget the disease and filth. The people them- 
selves are pleasant to remember, not like those of India 
where often little girls of three or four are put in purdah, 
and made to cover their faces which are never unveiled 
again as long as they live. In comparison mth these the 
joyous Burmese were a delight. Also, the richness of 
their soil, even the sleekness of their cattle, made us feel 
that in leaving them we were not departing from an 
oppressed and down-trodden country. 

But we must be up and away! So a few days later, 
on a very comfortable English steamer we sailed down 
the coast, passing many pretty islands and other inter- 
esting sights. The weather was hot, interspersed with 
showers every now and then. After a voyage of five un- 
eventful days we reached Georgetown, Malaysia, a beau- 
tiful city on the island of Penang. Here we stopped. 

Front Door of the Far East 

Penang is doubly remarkable. For one thing, one 
realizes when he has reached it that he has come to a 

143 



144 All the Way 'Round 

dividing line of the earth. He is turning his back upon 
what is known simply as the East and has arrived at the 
front door, so to speak, of the great Far East wherein the 
Chinese, the Malaysians and the Japanese swarm in un- 
counted millions. Second, Penang is the greatest tin port 
in the world. Fully two-thirds of all the tin used in the 
world starts from Penang and the nearby ports in the 
Malacca Straits. The island (Penang) lies at the north- 
em end of these straits. It is about forty miles, or slight- 
ly more, in circumference and is a colony of England. 
Its population, an admixture of Chinese, Malays, Indians 
and, of course, a few Europeans and English, is very 
interesting. Its waterfalls and botanical gardens are 
lovely, and a mountain over two thousand feet high in 
the center of the island gives many beautiful vistas of the 
island scenery. 

After lunch, while we waited for the motor (the Wil- 
lard Morses of New York were with us here) we sat and 
watched a most unusual sight on the water. The day 
was hot and showery. But between showers there was a 
beautiful rainbow light on both land and sea.. It was 
incomparable. 

Never have I seen a cleaner, more beautifully kept 
city than Georgetown. About noon the day settled, and 
was followed by a perfect afternoon. We motored all 
afternoon, encircling the island, seeing some of the most 
attractive and wonderfully-kept residences of the wealthy 



Malaysia, Penang, the Snake Temple 145 

Chinese. We passed also many villages, banana forests 
and other such things, saw a lot of wild monkeys and 
finally landed at a Snake Temple ! 

Surrounded by Snakes 

As was the case in ancient Egypt, serpent worship is 
common in this country. Therefore the Snake Temple 
is one of the most important. Had I known the truth 
before I entered, I doubt whether I could have persuaded 
myself to do so, but it was a case where ignorance was 
bliss. There were snakes everywhere ! They were coiled 
about the candlesticks, vases and other ornaments. They 
lay on the jamb of the doors. They covered the floors. 
I went up to inspect one, fervently believing, of course, 
that it was stuffed! Imagine my horror when it lifted 
its hideous head and began to uncoil! I cried out in 
terror and breathlessly leaned against the column for 
support — only to find another the head of which was 
not two inches from mine ! I could not stay in the place 
another minute. I fled to the outer air. The more coura- 
geous member of my family, however, remained and when 
he returned he brought this information. It was given 
him by the priests. At his suggestion that of course the 
fangs of the deadly-poisonous things were drawn he was 
told that this was not so, but that the reptiles were kept 
so heavily fed that they were sluggish, too inactive to 
strike or bite. Small boys and the priests move about 



146 All the Way 'Round 

among them, absolutely unafraid. But I would take no 
chances. For the snakes in this temple are the most 
deadly poisonous varieties known to man. 

Sampans 

We visited the bazaar which was the usual colorful 
affair, and after a little further sight-seeing took a sam- 
pan (river boat) to go out to the boat which lay in the 
harbor. It was night. The sea was a bit rough and I 
felt somewhat nervous in this shell-like arrangement. I 
was told, however, that here they are absolutely safe. 
In Rangoon we knew that no white people ever used them. 
There they w^ere death-traps, due to the swift and cross 
currents of the Irrawaddy river. Here in the Straits 
Settlements despite the frailness of the craft there are 
few accidents because the waters are calmer. Neverthe- 
less, in spite of the assertions as to their safety I was glad 
when I found myself out of that pitch-dark sampan and 
once more aboard the steamer. No sooner had we started 
than the fog horn began to blow — always a dreadful 
sound at sea — and we knew we were skirting a dangerous 
coast. The next days were gray and dark. At last we 
reached Singapore where we were caught in a perfect 
downpour, and as usual, every hotel in the place was 
packed and jammed. Everywhere that we had stopped 
in our travels this had been so, although we always wired 
ahead for accommodations, sometimes several days ahead. 



Malaysia, Penang, the Snake Temple 147 



An Impressive Fleet 

Singapore, likewise an island, is one of the prettiest 
cities that we saw. It guards the south entrance into the 
China Sea and, naturally, is one of the great turnstiles of 
commerce. The thing which impressed me most here was 
the shipping. I could never have believed that there were 
so many ships in the world as lay in the harbor at Singa- 
pore. I had always known, of course, that this is the 
greatest shipping port in the world, but the statement 
had not meant much to me until I saw the ships. The 
immensity of the shipping industry is something which 
one must see at Singapore in order to comprehend. 

After the usual argument over hotel and rooms we 
were at last made comfortable. It stands to reason that 
in fourteen months consumed in going around the world 
there would be many things which cannot be recorded, so 
many little side excursions of a day or two of which no 
mention can be made for lack of time and space. But 
one thing is indelibly stamped upon my memory. This is 
the continuous procession of strange hotels at which I 
stopped. In fact, I got so that if my husband permitted 
me to remain in the same hotel for more than two days I 
regarded it as an old family residence ! 

Singapore is but seventy miles from the Equator, and 
like all tropical countries, the moment the sun goes down 
the darkness descends immediately. It is either day or it 
is night. It is never twilight. But the dawn, strange 



148 All the Way 'Eound 

to say, is much longer coming. One may rise by daylight, 
but he will have to wait half an hour for the sun to rise. 
The mornings here are very beautiful. It is at an early 
hour that the people rise, take their exercise, the half- 
naked Malay groom being very much in evidence, leading 
the horses of the rich. At the hour of sunrise their 
masters appear, mount and ride away. There are also 
numbers of quaint carts drawn by hump-backed oxen. 
Singapore, however, with its wealthy citizens, its ap- 
parent cleanliness, its beautiful botanical gardens and 
other spots of loveliness, is one of the most unhealthy 
places on the face of the earth. I have been told that it 
has the highest death-rate of any city in the world. 

Bad News Causes Changes in Plans 

In spite of the interest I found in Singapore my stay 
there is connected in my memory with a very painful 
personal incident. We received word here that our oldest 
grandchild in Chicago was desperately ill. All our plans 
were immediately changed. We gave up Java, whither we 
had intended going, and took passage at once for Hong- 
kong, from which place, unless we received better news 
on our arrival, we should set sail immediately for home. 
Fortunately for her and for us, when we reached that 
city we were informed she was much improved, and we 
were urged not to abandon our trip. Upon our return we 
found her completely recovered, but because of the news 



Malaysia, Penang, the Snake Temple 149 

of her illness we took the first boat sailing from Sing- 
apore. 

Perhaps the experience which followed helped me to 
forget my anxiety over my little granddaughter. So 
eager were we to be gone that we forgot to look at the 
boat nntil after we were aboard of her ! She was a Dutch 
ship, very small, and, contrary to most things Dutch 
(which are scrupulously clean) she was surely the filthiest 
thing I ever set eyes upon! In addition to ourselves 
there were five white people aboard, one of whom was 
Dr. Gurd, a very gifted woman from the University of 
Michigan at Ann Arbor. OtherAvise the boat was packed 
with Chinese passengers. And they were the dirtiest 
Chinese ! True, they were wealthy, but their odor did not 
indicate it! It was unspeakable. And they were piled 
into the first cabin with us. We had very little deck room. 
All were violently seasick, and the smell from their bed- 
rooms was simply indescribable. Not only this — we were 
told that the trip would consume four days. It took six. 
The only thing I can say for the boat is that it was fairly 
steady. But the powerful northeast monsoon was blow- 
ing. The waves were mountain high. The food was horri- 
ble. There were thirteen of us at the captain's table, which 
because of my Irish ancestry did not tend to brighten the 
situation ! Well, I — further words fail me ! I shall never 
forget my experience on this dreadful boat. And on the 
beautiful China Sea! 



150 All the Way 'Round 

A Night to Be Remembered 

On this stormy voyage, however, we were granted one 
superb sight. The stiff wind of the monsoon always in- 
creases in volume at night. It blew the clouds away, and 
although the waves of spray seemed like mountains, the 
boat rode steadily, resting on the water as lightly as a bird. 
Overhead the moon shone, and despite this fact the stars 
were amazingly bright. The astral triangle, like a dia- 
mond kite, was glowing above that glittering constellation 
of which I so often think and speak — the Southern Cross 
— with its brilliant pointers. On this night it was a thing 
of wondrous splendor. The sky was sapphire. The other 
constellations — Orion, Taurus, and Sirius, like a sun — 
holding our admiration. It was a night long to be remem- 
bered in spite of seasick Chinamen and the roughness of 
the China Sea! 



CHAPTER XIII 

MANILA; THE PHILIPPINES 

SIX days brought us to Hongkong, and a more beau-^ 
tiful city it would be hard to imagine. Its series of 
wonderful harbors, its picturesque hills around them, 
reminded us of the harbor of Rio de Janeiro, which we 
think the most beautiful in the world. From the top 
of the highest peak the city is a glorious sight. Small 
bays and harbors lie below, and one of the most charm- 
ing hotels, a celebrated summer resort, is situated half 
way around the island. A closer approach reveals the 
parks, streets, perfectly wonderful stores and shops, 
full of fine shaAvls and linen, all the things which prove 
such a delight to the traveler. Eighty per cent of the 
population of Hongkong is Chinese. Yet it is an Eng- 
lish city. 

The comprador and taipan costumes are of the finest 
silks — a striking contrast to that of the poor coolies 
who wear coarse blue nankeen made into short trousers, 
always very dirty. The tall Indian policemen, the Sikhs, 
dressed in white, yellow and black, make a brilliant bit 
of color. Every nationality seems to be here. The fine 
buildings, the motley crowd, the splendid shops (almost 
the finest in the world) are wonderful, and never had 
I dreamed of such embroidered shawls, silks and linens, 

151 



152 All the Way 'Round 

to say naught of the fine laces, as are shown in Hong- 
kong. 

Ojf for Manila Immediately 

As I have already said, however, Hongkong is much 
more an English than a Chinese city. Therefore we felt 
that we had not really gotten into China until after our 
trip to Manila, which we made almost immediately, re- 
turning afterwards to Hongkong. "We went from here 
to Canton, which city is perhaps more strictly Chinese 
than any other in the whole country. 

How fine it was to board once more a boat which be- 
longed to our own good United States! The wonderful 
comfort it gave us was certainly a contrast to the last 
one ! On this boat we received our long-desired vaccina- 
tion for smallpox, keeping this time the certificates to 
prove it. All along the way we had been hearing of 
people who had entered China without being inoculated 
and had died there. For this reason the Chinese officials 
had become very exacting in their demands, and one 
could not enter the country without having this formality 
attended to. 

Lizards in the Shoes 

So much has been said and written of Manila and 
the Philippines that I shall not dwell upon the islands 
at length. We found the weather warm, but the hotel 
was comfortable and we enjoyed every moment of our 



Manila; the Philippines 153 

twenty-one days there — with one exception. Our rooms 
overlooking the bay were beautiful, but one night I was 
terrified by the most dreadful squeaking sounds. It was 
in the middle of the night, and so vociferous were they 
that I thought surely a lion or tiger had gotten into 
my room. With the aid of my husband, however, I went 
investigating only to find that they were tiny lizards, of 
which there were dozens running about the walls and on 
the ceiling! Their favorite haunt, I discovered later, 
was the clothes closet, among your dresses, or in your 
shoes! They certainly are noisy little pests and it was 
some time before I could be persuaded that they were 
harmless. 

We did all the stunts which travelers usually do, go- 
ing to Pagsangan by motor, shooting the rapids while 
a number of little wild monkeys pitched stones at us. 
The ride to Pagsangan was as tropical as anything we 
saw in Ceylon — most luxuriant foliage and the brightest 
of scarlet flowers. Palms and cocoanuts, of course, 
abounded. We stopped en route to see a beautiful little 
lake the name of which I have now forgotten, also at 
Los Banos, where the hot water, possessing wonderful 
curative properties, gushes right out of the earth. These 
waters are celebrated and a charming little sanatorium 
has been established here. With us at this place were 
two charming Quaker ladies, the Misses T — , of Phila- 
delphia. We returned through the mountain gorge, again 



154 All the Way 'Eound 

shooting the rapids — a wonderful and unique drive. 

Dinner with General Wood 

There was a delightful colony of Americans here, 
most of whom we knew. We listened to many hot dis- 
cussions as to whether the Philippines are ready for 
self-government or not. We had dinner with General and 
Mrs. Wood, the lieutenant-governor, his wife, and several 
other charming and distinguished guests, among whom 
was Dr. Heiser, an authority on sanitation in the islands. 
The palace looked lovely. It has large, comfortable rooms 
and a beautiful outlook over the river. In a gathering 
such as this it was but natural that many interesting 
questions should be discussed, and it was as an oasis 
must be to the traveler lost in the desert to thus spend 
a week-end, as it were, in America on our way to China. 
At the dinner table I had observed a (to me) curious 
thing. There were small lights beneath the table. It 
was lighted more brilliantly underneath than above. 
When I sought an explanation, I found that it was to 
protect our feet from the mosquitoes should there be 
any stray ones inclined to visit us. If there is anything 
about the mosquito which they of the Philippines, Cuba, 
and Panama have not discovered I should like to know 
what it is. They have even learned that they are ter- 
rorized by brilliant lights. Hence these under the dining 
table. 



Manila; the Philippines 155 

Other friends entertained us while we were here, and 
we enjoyed to the fullest this prelude to the days of 
hard traveling which were to follow in China and Japan. 
The weather was terribly hot, and as there was to be 
a wait of three weeks for the steamer we spent one of 
them at that charming resort, Bagnio, up in the moun- 
tains. It gets very cold up there. The elevation is about 
five thousand feet. Here we found a dear friend, Mrs. 
Calhoun, of Chicago, widow of our former minister to 
China. She was spending a year in the Orient, and with 
a young friend had run over from China for a short stay 
at BagTiio. Though we missed seeing her in China we 
had a delightful visit here. Other friends from Chicago, 
Mr. and Mrs. Tyler, had accompanied us to Bagnio, as 
had also Dr. Heiser, of whom I have spoken, a member 
of the Rockefeller Foundation, the man who had done 
so much to promote sanitation in Manila and the Far 
East. After twenty years he had returned to America 
only to be recalled by General Wood for service in the 
Philippines. It was a privilege to be with him and to see 
the perfection of his work in Manila. 

An Expert on Typhoons 

I have never come in touch with a more interesting 
story than that of Father Alguez, a Catholic priest, a 
Jesuit, who lives in Baguio. Just outside the city, he has 
built a fine observatory, on a hill. Dr. Heiser took us 



156 All the Way 'Eound 

to visit it and while there introduced us to Father Alguez. 
A Spaniard, a man highly educated, cultured, picturesque 
in appearance because of snow-white hair and beard, 
Father Algaez has for years made a study of the hurri- 
canes and typhoons which are so deadly an enemy to 
life in the tropics. Many wonderful instruments have 
been invented and perfected by him with which reckon- 
ings are made. So exhaustive has been his research, 
so perfect is his knowledge of the subject that his word 
is unhesitatingly accepted by everybody on earth whose 
dwelling place is in the locality where those dangerous 
storms are common. In the Philippines when the typhoon 
comes they draw down the coverings above the houses, 
and sometimes sit for hours waiting for the typhoon 
either to come or to pass them by. All the ships that are 
equipped with wireless and with the instruments devised 
by Father Alguez have now no excuse in the world for 
being lost in hurricane or typhoon. They are always 
Warned in time. I asked whether Father Alguez's warn- 
ing was ever disregarded and I was told that now it was 
not — that once a few years ago someone, who thought 
he knew more than the Father, did not heed him and 
the result was that ten thousand Chinamen were lost at 
sea in a storm. Now, from the greatest ship to the 
smallest 'sampan all vessels look in the daily papers for 
the report and fly to cover when warned. 

At a very typical home in Manila where Mr. W — , 



Manila; the Philippines 157 

a former New Orleans resident, and his agreeable daugh- 
ter gave us a beautiful dinner, we were shown the manner 
in which coverings were lowered to protect buildings. 
It is done much like the way in which the canvas is put 
down at sea to protect the decks. 

Igorrotes' Dog Market 

BagTiio is celebrated for its market of Igorrotes which 
is held every Sunday. It is called the dog market. People 
come from the hills and everywhere around to buy a dog. 
These they fatten and eat. I felt very sorry for the poor 
skinny dogs which were sold the day we were there. The 
Igorrotes present a most picturesque appearance and 
they bring their wares from all parts of the country. 
Some of them are very handsome and they made us think 
of the natives of La Paz, Bolivia, where we one day 
saw a similar market. In Bagnio I saw something which 
I have never either seen or heard of elsewhere. After 
a charming lunch at the country club one afternoon, we 
rode out (enjoying many pretty views as we went) to a 
hospital. It stands, or sits, right on the edge of a large 
slide, a hole in the ground fully half a mile square. Dr. 
Heiser says that this slide is puzzling scientists through- 
out the world. From no apparent cause it began about 
ten years ago to sink. It goes down about two feet a 
month. They can find no reason for it, but — a hospital 
on this rugged edge seemed to me a mighty poor place 



158 All the Way 'Round 

in whicli to house sick people, especially since, as I was 
informed, the rest house for the nurses toppled over the 
edge a few years ago. The authorities know and admit 
that the hospital is dangerously placed, but say that 
they have not enough money to move it! 

In this charming Bagnio, for the first time we broke 
the rule which we had so strictly kept ever since leaving 
home in regard to uncooked food and unboiled water. 
Bagnio is in charge of the government. The gardens are 
perfectly kept, and are not fertilized in the same man- 
ner as are those of the rest of the Orient. Here we ate 
luscious strawberries and other uncooked things, and 
fearlessly drank the unboiled water. 

A Dangerous Motor Trip 

Baguio is progressive as to education. Here are 
schools where young men are taught farming, the girls 
bead- and bag-work and other handicraft of the island. 
One cannot be in the Philippines without feeling very 
proud of one's country — that is if one's country chances 
to be the United States ! We have done much for these 
far-away islands. They have much to thank us for. 

It is cool in Baguio. One can live there comfortably, 
practice his trade or profession and really get on in life, 
forgetful of the heat of Manila. There could be nothing 
more beautiful than the motor trip between these two 
places — a wonderful panorama of winding roads, glori- 



Manila; the Philippines 159 

ous gorges, white rushing cataracts against dark granite 
backgrounds, masses of brilliant flowers and green trees, 
all forming a perfect conglomeration of beauty, espe- 
cially if seen in the cool of the sunset. But — it is a 
dangerous ride, because of which fact they have estab- 
lished an excellent block system with gates through 
w^hich no machine is permitted to pass until the way is 
clear ahead. The system covers the dangerous part of 
the road. After this one flies over smooth white roads 
through seemingly endless villages. 

On the day that we were leaving, just before taking 
our train back to Manila, being the first motor out we 
waited, according to arrangement, for the following one 
at the station. It was due in twenty minutes but did not 
arrive for more than an hour and when it did come the 
occupants had a grewsome tale to tell. They had been 
stopped on the way by the body of a murdered man 
lying across the road. He had been killed between the 
time that we passed and the time that they came along. 
They were held at the gate until the authorities could 
be summoned, and we all nearly lost our train in con- 
sequence. The authorities were greatly disturbed over 
this occurrence (as they had every reason to be) and 
the papers were filled with it. Some of our party were 
fearful of being detained as witnesses, but fortunately 
this did not happen. We should have lost the steame 
in that event. 



160 All the Way 'Round 



The Murder of Mrs. Snyder 
The morning of our return to Manila was a day we 
shall always remember. Announcement was flashed over 
the whole world of the tragic death by assassination of 
a lovely American woman, wife of William J. Snyder, 
a wealthy banker and coal operator of Brazil, Indiana. 
Like ourselves the Snyders were making a trip around 
the world. The tenseness of feeling between Korea and 
Japan put it into the heads of three Koreans to attempt 
the assassination of the Japanese minister who was to 
be in Hongkong. Although we did not know Mr. and 
Mrs. Snyder personally they had been with us in Manila, 
and had gone back to Hongkong on the same boat which 
had brought us to the Philippines. As they were de- 
scending the gangplank at Hongkong the assassins fired 
three shots, all of which took efPect in Mrs. Snyder's 
body. Death followed in a few moments. This event, 
aside from the fact that we had travelled with her, in- 
terested us personally for another reason. Only a few 
years ago, our brother, Mr. William Preston Harrison, 
and his wife, were also travelling in the Orient. AVhile 
in Korea a similar occurrence took place. The city was 
in gala dress for the approaching visit of the Japanese 
minister, and desirous of witnessing the ceremonies Mr. 
and Mrs. Harrison joined the throng. A bomb was 
thrown. Mr. Harrison was so badly stunned that it was 
thought at first he had been killed. Eecovering shortly, 




Market, Baguio 

People come from the hills to the Baguio market 

Igorrotes at the Baguio market 




An Igorrote youth 



Manila; the Philippines 161 

however, he found his wife severely wounded, four 
wounds having been given her, one of which was serious. 
The event further interested us because had we reached 
Manila five days earlier we should have been among the 
passengers alighting at Hongkong ourselves, and un- 
doubtedly witnesses of the tragedy. 

Having escaped a tragedy, however, we had the pleas- 
ure of bringing with us a happy romance instead. A 
very charming young lady had gone out to Manila to 
visit friends. Meeting there the son of General Wood, 
after a brief courtship she had been married to him. 
They were taking their honeymoon trip to China and 
Japan on our steamer. 



CHAPTER XIV 

ENGLISH HONGKONG AND CHINESE CANTON 

THE voyage from Manila to Hongkong was lovely. 
All writers and travelers unite in crying out about 
the unspeakable filth of Chinese cities. But we saw none 
of it in beautiful, well-kept, up-to-date, English Hong- 
kong. 

When we went to Canton, however, it was different. 
We realized the truth of their statements. As our vessel 
was to remain for two days at Hongkong we found that 
by taking a night boat we could spend a day in Canton, 
which we did. Ever since leaving Marseilles there was 
one subject of conversation in which we had to indulge 
frequently, and when we reached China we found a 
second of equally absorbing interest. We had purposely 
left Europe late to avoid the tour of the Prince of Wales 
who was about to set forth on a visit to his dominions. 
We thought (and in this we were not mistaken) that 
the enormous and lavish preparations for his reception 
everywhere he went would disturb the ordinary appear- 
ance of the country, which was what we were there to 
see. Although at any other time we should have enjoyed 
this episode greatly, we longed for a whole year in India 
and found ourselves able to spend but two months there. 
So we sought to escape this royal visit. But it was not 

162 



English Hongkong and Chinese Canton 163 

possible. Everywhere preparations were being made. 
Thousands and thousands of dollars were being spent, 
and not infrequently a temporary platform, or some such 
thing, would interfere, sometimes completely destroy the 
perspective of a temple or public building which we had 
come thousands of miles to see. 

Hongkong Wdits for Prince of Wales 

In spite of the marring of the view however, we 
afterwards regretted that we could not linger for the 
royal festivities. The magnificent garden parties, the 
jewels of the maharajahs, the value of which ran into 
the billions, the royal elephants, the opportunity to wit- 
ness the native games — all this and much more we had 
to forego for lack of time. Also, as I have already men- 
tioned, there was a great unrest, due to the discontent 
fomented by Ghandi and his following, and this made it 
imperative that the Prince should be guarded every hour 
and everywhere he went — a precaution which proved a 
great strain upon the young man, a strain which was 
quite visible in his countenance. We had delayed our own 
journey sufficiently to give him three months ahead of 
us. On our arrival at Hongkong we learned that he 
was due there the next night ! The red carpet was spread 
and the whole city festooned for his reception. 

The second event which had kept us at boiling point 
all along the journey was, of course, the war cloud which 



164 All the Way 'Round 

was just then spread over China. Everywhere we went 

we learned that daily it loomed heavier and heavier. It 

had now assumed such proportions that the tourists were 

warned against visiting China, and many who intended 

doing so had left, unwilling to take the risk. We felt, 

however, that we had come too far and had endured 

altogether too many discomforts in order to see this 

ancient country, to be willing to just lightly give it up. 

So we decided that wherever a train or a boat would go 

and the authorities would permit, we would take a chance 

on them. 

Provided with Reliable Guides 

We were told that few people ever go to Canton with- 
out first receiving satisfactory reports that no immediate 
outbreaks are expected. The well-known hatred which 
the Cantonese have for the foreigner was not absent when 
we were there. In fact, it was greatly accentuated by 
some recent action of the English. They had killed five 
Cantonese, and after long litigation the government had 
allowed a very small sum of money for these deaths. In 
consequence the people were feeling ugly, and many tour- 
ists, advised not to venture, did not go. But we went. 
We took every precaution, however. In addition to our 
usual guide to Canton, an English-speaking Chinaman, 
we wired for three others who should meet us here. These 
are supplied upon request by Cook, and those provided 
for us proved most reliable. Friends urged us not to go. 




In Canton's Roof Garden 
Sampan Colony, Canton 




u 



H 



English Hongkong and Chinese Canton 165 

But we decided to do so, determining, however, to be 
on the alert and to take no unnecessary chances. 

It is well-known that not many of the white residents 
of Canton live in the city. They reside upon an island — 
the consuls, missionaries and foreign merchants — al- 
ways protected by a guard. The gate to this island is 
kept locked. One is permitted to enter by passport only. 
It is encircled by barbed wire, and is well patrolled, day 
and night. A dwelling place for the white man is not to 
be desired in Canton. From all that one reads (and 
sees) in Canton, one wonders just how long a white man 
would be ashore without having his throat cut ! All yel- 
low humanity seems to threaten him. 

Fire that Smolders 

But the Chinese have a wholesome respect for the 
white man's power, and this is the strongest check 
against them that there is. We learned while at Canton, 
however, that the consuls of the United States and Eng- 
land have banded together, and keep in the harbor a 
warship large enough to take them all aboard in case 
of trouble — a very significant fact! Should the war 
cloud now so dense around Peking and Hanchow extend 
to Canton, the Cantonese are not likely to forget their 
five slain countrymen and England's meager remunera- 
tion. There would be little hope for the white people 
there should the flame flare out in Canton, and of course. 



166 All the Way 'Round 

they do not distinguish between English and American. 
They include the latter (through ignorance, of course) 
in their intense hatred toward England. 

It is said that the Cantonese are the most strictly 
Chinese of all the people of that vast country, also that 
they are progressive as to education. As to this latter 
statement I cannot say. One sees little evidence of it as 
he goes among the people. But they do have, once in three 
years, a gathering of the learned, where a difficult com- 
petitive examination is held for membership in the Han 
Lun College. Those who win this great honor are revered 
throughout the empire. There was once a leper colony 
near here and all the native craft had to pay the head leper 
for a pass to the city. If payment was refused the lepers 
would surround the boat, w^hich, of course, always brought 
forth payment in short order ! 

Running the Gauntlet 

The night trip on a wretched little boat which ran 
between Hongkong and Canton was about as miserable 
and uncomfortable as one could imagine. Our two Chi- 
cago friends, Mr. and Mrs. Tyler, the g-uide, and ourselves 
spent some very unhappy hours between dusk and dawn. 
The boat was heavily guarded, not because of the war, 
but because the river ran through that celebrated pirate 
country which has so long existed and is such a menace. 
Only ten days before we came, one of these little steamers 



English Hongkong and Chinese Canton 167 

had been attacked and looted and one or two people 
killed. Our small boat was practically encased in barbed 
wire and the decks patrolled by armed men. 

Brigandage is a phase of Chinese life which nobody, 
seemingly, makes any effort to check. People are so ac- 
customed to it that they think little or nothing if a wealthy 
man is captured and held for ransom. These brigands 
lie in ambush for those whom they have selected and 
when they have seized them, hide in the hills, demanding 
often a huge sum for their release. The Chinese govern- 
ment is apparently afraid to clean up the districts where 
this is extensively practiced, and so the nefarious business 
just goes on. If a brigand is captured he is promptly 
shot, but they are so seldom caught that this fate does not 
intimidate them. A protest from the American Legation 
has recently stirred the Chinese government to action, 
and it is said that measures a little more stringent are 
under way. A threat from one of our ministers also had 
effect. Some Americans were promptly delivered, and 
without ransom, too. Since then the Chinese government 
has shown a little less fear in dealing with the brigands. 

However, in going up the river we had no unusual 
experiences. "We went through safely and reached Canton 
by daylight. Of all the Chinese the people of Canton are 
said to be the least friendly. They are very proud, and 
among the educated they hold themselves aloof from 
contact with all other races. Once or twice on our travels 



168 All the Way 'Eound 

we met some educated Cantonese, brought up in England. 
They were most agreeable. One girl, especially, I remem- 
ber. Her father was an Englishman, she herself married 
to one, and she was as charming and attractive as any 
woman I have ever seen. But the lower class, both like 
and unlike those of whom I speak, have that same aloof- 
ness which is almost aggressiveness and they lack, of 
course, the education which makes the upper class Can- 
tonese know how to use it. 

The Sampan Colony 

One of the striking sights on the arrival of the boat 
at Canton is that of the vast floating population. Over a 
hundred thousand small sampans cover the water, all 
manned by women. Whole families are born, live, and 
die in these boats, wretched and filthy, all housed in 
the tiny space of a few feet. Here they cook, wash, 
eat, and sleep, and the dirty water from the river which 
they drink is little else than thin mud. Standing with 
long oars attached to the back of the boat, the women 
maneuvered them skillfully, and this they do with babies 
tied to their backs. It is a pitiful sight. The poor baby 
flops about and falls from side to side as the mother 
moves vigorously, and never a whimper from the little 
one. These people who live on the sampans are the very 
lowest class in China. They never marry with the land 
people. The men fish and sit around — I never saw any 




Incense Burner, Suchow Oldest Pagoda, Suchow 

Tiger Hill Pagoda, Suchow 




A picturesque bridge, 
Suchow 




In front of City Temple, 
Suchow 





A barber, Suchow 



A garden. Suchow 



English Hongkong and Chinese Canton 169 

of them working — and they have the usual characteris- 
tics of the oriental. Even this class will not permit their 
women to sit with them. The wives and women members 
of the family must sit elsewhere. The men are served on 
one part of the boat by the women who, after they have 
attended to the wants of these lords of creation, sit down 
humbly with each other and eat. 

IT MADE MY BLOOD BOIL! I'M FOR SUF- 
FRAGE IN CHINA! 

We had an experience in one of the temples in Canton 
which, had it not been for our guide, might have had an 
ugly outcome. We were warned to be careful as the Can- 
tonese are a sensitive lot and it was Ancestral Day. 
Every one was worshiping and making offerings to their 
ancestors. We were standing quietly, just watching the 
worshipers, when suddenly our guide said, " Come 
quickly! We have been asked to leave!" "But — " I 
ventured, " we have not yet seen the temple. Won't they 
permit us to visit it ? " " No, no !" was his reply. "Come 
at once. You may be shot ! " So out we went. In other 
temples, however, they treated us, if not with respect, at 
least with indifference. 



CHAPTER XV 

ACROSS china; shanghai, canton, SUCHOW, NANKING, 

PEKING 

DESPITE the power of individual rulers and periods 
of remarkable strength on the part of the nation, 
China, under the influence of Confucius, has been looking 
backward rather than forward for the last twenty-four 
hundred years. Today, however, the old Chinese civili- 
zation seems doomed, anchored as it is solely in the past. 
One of China's weaknesses is, of course, her isolation. 
She seems geographically set apart from the rest of the 
world. With the great shipping interests of the present 
day, however, that weakness must rapidly disappear with 
the establishment and control of transportation. China 
is bound to reach, in time, that civilization to which all 
the world feels that she is entitled. The true ambassa- 
dors to China are, after all, our merchant adventurers of 
the western nations, bearing their goods, revealing their 
skill in engineering and making use of diplomacy when 
advisable. I heard one of our diplomats speak glowingly 
of the splendid effect that the carrying of petroleum into 
China has accomplished. To them something which could 
light a lamp and thereby prolong their day was little 
short of a miracle. For, since time immemorial the 
Chinese have risen at dawn and retired at dark. They 
had no artificial light. 

170 



Across China; Shanghai, Canton 171 

A Light in the Dalrkness 

I had always been keen for a larger knowledge of this 
wonderful country. To me, during the trip which encir- 
cled the globe, it had always seemed the objective point. 
Its literature has ennobling standards and lofty ideals. 
Its people certainly display common sense in the belief 
that experience is the mother of custom. Still, the rest 
of the world deplores the fact that the Chinese are so 
cautious of experiment, so wary when it comes to accept- 
ing new ideas. Custom and past experience have always 
been enough for them. Because their ancestors did things, 
they, too, must do them! They are long in realizing that 
not to accept new ideas is not to advance. But they are 
beginning to see the light. Already there is a distinct 
advancement along many lines. 

The tendency to do away with the queue was the first 
step toward newer ideas. The second was the building 
of railroads, even across ancestral graves. In fact, it 
would not be possible to build a road of any kind which 
would not cross these ancestral resting-places. There 
are millions of them. China is one huge cemetery. This 
is almost the first impression which the traveler gets 
when he enters the country. And there is no system about 
burying people in China. Graves are planted anywhere 
and everywhere. They clutter up everything, rows and 
rows of them, regular and irregular. They are to be 
found in both flower and vegetable gardens, and not inf re- 



172 All the Way 'Eound 

quently some ancestor is buried right in front of the 
house. And no matter where they bury an ancestor the 
spot is most sacred, always respected and well cared for. 

The Widows' Monuments 

Ancestor worship certainly must keep one pretty busy 
in China. Every now and then as we went from place to 
place we would see such a pretty four-pillared effect with 
a cross-beam on top. When we inquired what these were, 
we were told that they were " widow monuments." And 
we saw hundreds of them. If a widow was devout, if she 
either burned herself to death, or shaved her head, black- 
ened her teeth, mutilated her face or performed some 
other nice little stunt which would render her unattractive 
to other men (in this way proving her devotion to the 
dear departed) her friends would erect for her a widow's 
monument. Or, if they were too poor, the government 
would sometimes do it for them, thus encouraging all the 
poor deluded females to be faithful to the deceased — 
these privileged individuals who during their lives had 
several legal wives and all the concubines they could sup- 
port, and who would not be faithful to the memory of any 
one woman for five minutes ! The monuments are impos- 
ing and attractive, but I felt incensed every time I 
looked at one of them. One cannot help admiring them — 
when one realizes what a woman has gone through in 
order to get one. 




Holy Way to the Ming Tombs, Nanking 




Professional beggars seen at the Ming Tombs, Nanking 



Across China; Shanghai, Canton 173 



There is another thing in China which makes a great 
impression upon one. This is the seeming permanency 
of her cities. For how many centuries have they been 
just as they are now — Peking, Shanghai, Suchow, Hong- 
kong (modernized because of her geographical situa- 
tion), Nanking. In what mysterious way have all these 
survived destruction ? That they have seen wars, sieges, 
pestilence and famine, disastrous floods which sometimes 
destroy whole populations in a day, all the world knows. 
China's ancient cities are cities still. Babylon, Ninevah, 
and Tyre — where are they? One cannot help being 
inspired by the dignified old age of China, 

On account of the fighting we were forced to miss 
Hanchow, as well as several other interesting places. But 
we were possessed of a do-or-die determination to at least 
have a look-in on that most interesting of all Chinese 
cities, Peking. On the way we found much of interest to 
all the party, while I, as a Catholic, was more than pleased 
to see what the church is doing in the Orient. One finds 
much to interest and entertain him in Shanghai, and here 
the Catholics may well be proud of their work. The con- 
vent established there for Chinese girls is a model. The 
lace they turn out is so exquisite that it is something to 
dream about. The Jesuit College is equally efficient. 
Here the boys make superb furniture, the carvings on 
which are considered wonderful even for Chinese carv- 
ings. Every tourist, no matter what his faith, should 



174 All the Way 'Round 

visit these two places. Otherwise he will miss something 
well worth seeing. 

The picturesque bridges of Suchow are just as ex- 
quisite as are all the pictures we see of the city. So many 
American artists have delighted to paint it, that the 
average traveler is prepared for its beauty, certain por- 
tions of it being distinctly recognizable from paintings 
which one has seen before coming. Had it not been for 
the usual filth and the ill-smelling bazaars, we should have 
adored it. As one approaches Suchow the first sight 
which greets him is, of course, the pagodas. There are 
five inside the city and three on the hills outside. The 
Great Pagoda, as it is called, seen on entering the city, 
is one of the most famous in China. It was built about 
1131 A. D. It is nine stories high and a marvel in pro- 
portion. It is sixty feet at the base, forty-five at the top, 
and each story is proportionally narrower and smaller. 
In spite of its massiveness it is exquisitely built and is 
simply glorious to look upon. The leaning pagoda at 
Tiger Hill is also wonderful. I do not recall whether it 
is eleven or thirteen stories, but it is extremely pictur- 
esque. It is the first one to be seen on entering the city 
and the last one seen when leaving it. Its peculiar slant, 
like that of the leaning tower of Pisa, gives it an air of 
enchantment, mystery, and charm, and like it, it seems as 
if it could not have been built at that peculiar angle by 
human hands. 



Across China; Shanghai, Canton 175 

Hciirrowing Scenes at Nanking 
Of course we went to Nanking because one of the 
finest of all the Ming tombs is there. In all of China there 
is really no finer. From Nanking we motored to it and 
found it magnificent. The great slab — colossal in size, 
with the history of the king written on slab towers — 
stands on the back of a huge tortoise. The approach to 
the tomb, The Holy Way, is lined on either side with 
crouching and standing stone figures of priests, war- 
riors, elephants, lions, horses, and other animals. It is 
very effective and dignified. At Nanking, as in fact 
throughout China, the terrible sight of maimed and blind 
took away much of the pleasure of looking at objects of 
interest. Even the beautiful view from the top of the wall 
of the Pagoda of the War God I saw through blinding 
tears. Although I tried to become inured to the sight of 
the professional beggar as one sees him in the Orient, I 
could not succeed. I did get so that I could shut my eyes 
to it in men and women. But the sight of a handsome 
boy professionally maimed, with bleeding sores caused 
by some hideous disease, was the culmination here of all 
that I had to witness in the Far East. Absolutely no 
precaution, so far as I am able to learn, is taken by the 
authorities or any one else to protect and safeguard the 
health of these children. The sight of them is most har- 
rowing. But — as beggars they are valuable! They 
are pushed forward by their parents to beg the living 



176 All the Way 'Round 

for both of them. I cannot remember seeing a child of the 
poorer class in all China, however young or small, who 
was not the victim of some terrible and loathsome skin 
disease. Sometimes in tiny children it is slight. But it 
is always there and seems to be taken for granted by the 
natives. 

The professional beggars are so numerous that the 
railroad has been compelled to build a fence to protect 
the passengers. Back of the fence, when the train comes 
in, they congregate while sympathizing passengers throw 
money to them from the windows. The most terrible sight 
I have ever witnessed in my whole life occurred at one 
of these stations. I dislike to dwell upon its hideousness, 
but to omit the recital would be to leave out something 
which is a part of Chinese life. We drew up at the sta- 
tion. Back of the fence was the usual array of beggars. 
They are not permitted to come out from behind the 
fence, but one poor woman, becoming importunate, came 
too near the train. She was a terrible creature to look at 
• — almost half of her head eaten away by a huge sore. 
When she broke the rule a policeman began to beat her. 
From the train the passengers had to sit helpless and 
watch the performance. She screamed with pain, cursing 
and reviling him at the same time. Her terrified children 
clung to her skirts. Each time she fell to the ground her 
little boy of six would help her to her feet. Her cries 
ring in my ears to this hour. The episode is typical of 




4BP 




^SiP 



^"^ 



Drum Tower, Nanking 




Bell Tower, Nanking 





Pagoda of the War God. Nanking 



Across China; Shanghai, Canton 177 

two of the things which go to make up the country, the 
filth, poverty, and beggary of the people, and the inhuman 
cruelty of the police. 

Our train for Peking went out under guard because of 
the robbers who had been rendered bold by the war which 
was then going on pretty vigorously in certain sections 
of China. Only a week before they had held up a train, 
looted it, taking all the money from the passengers, and 
one man was killed. All trains were now gTiarded, and 
we got through all right. It was a lovely country through 
which we passed. Wild cherry, apple, and peach blos- 
soms and the glorious yellow of the Chinese cabbage 
made beautiful the landscape. The last-named flower, 
which the English call the rape and the Chinese know as 
Chinese cabbage, is like our mustard bloom in color and 
is beautiful from a distance. Enormous fields of it, side 
by side with meadows of red clover, looked like huge 
paintings from the windows of the train. 

The Peking dust has not been exaggerated. And we 
reached Peking in the dusty month of April. It was some- 
thing terrible. Actually, when clouds of it arose it was 
like a dense fog. One could see only a few feet ahead. 
Of course, not being acclimated, we all paid tribute to it 
in colds and throat infections. Each of us in turn lay in 
bed for a few days suffering from the effects. And no 
one had the least sympathy for us. Each said indiffer- 
ently, " Oh, that is nothing ! Just the Peking dust ! " But, 



178 All the Way 'Round 

with streaming eyes, sore throats, and awful coughs, we 
thought our friends decidedly unfriendly. We survived, 
however, and managed to thoroughly enjoy our two 
weeks' stay. 

Oh, the fascination of Peking ! Words cannot describe 
it. China lays great stress on externals. Her display, I 
presume, is caused by her old love of imperialism. All 
of her public ceremonials are colored with great bril- 
liancy. In Peking she seems to have gathered the most 
striking and the most gorgeous of all her priceless pos- 
sessions. Her temples are exquisite in form and superbly 
carved. Her museum is said to be the most costly in the 
world. Her treasures and trappings — but it is useless 
to enumerate further. One could never speak of them all. 

When the Manchus captured Peking in 1644 they made 
the Tartar City their residence. Outside the Tartar City 
lies the Chinese City, surrounded by a wall thirty feet 
high and twenty-five feet wide. Lying within the Tartar 
City is the Imperial City, and lying within the Imperial 
City is the Forbidden City, which for so many centuries 
was a mystery to the world outside. Until the Boxer 
rebellion in 1900 no foreigner was permitted to enter it. 
Within it lived the royal family with their hundreds of 
servants. However, those days have passed into history. 
The Forbidden City is now open to the public. But no 
one is permitted to enter that part where lives the little 
lad who would have been emperor had China continued a 



Across China; Shanghai, Canton 179 

monarchy. With the estabHshment of the repubHc, addi- 
tional parts of the City have been opened to the traveler. 

A Background of Mountains 

Peking is situated in a flat plain, but ten miles away 
the western hills rise abruptly out of the flat sands to a 
height of about seven thousand feet, making a picturesque 
background for the city. These hills possess some won- 
derful tombs which we longed to visit but dared not. The 
war cloud was assuming large proportions when we 
entered Peking and we could not tell how long or how brief 
our stay there would be. 

When one enters this old city he passes through the 
Chinese City with its massive walls and lofty towers, 
solemn and mysterious, strong-looking as the mountains. 
They separated themselves well from their ancient 
enemies, the Manchus, whom they hated. The great 
grievance of the Chinese, underlying all else, the most 
prime factor in all the recent revolutions, is the fact that 
for three hundred years their country has been ruled, not 
by the Chinese, but by these alien Manchus. The wall 
which here separates the Chinese and the Tartar cities is 
a hundred feet high by eighty wide. From the Tartar 
City one enters the third one, the Imperial City. Two 
temples are on either side of the gate, one dedicated to 
the God of War. Through this gate one looks straight 
up a broad avenue to the stately buildings of the Imperial 



180 All the Way 'Eound 

Palace. A large square lies outside the Forbidden City 
and it forms the main approach to the Imperial City. 
Colossal pillars and huge stone lions guard the entrance 
to these wonderfully fine palaces and buildings. It is a 
most dignified approach to what was formerly the seat 
of power of a mighty nation. One is quite awed by it, and 
it is not difficult to understand the stupendous effect it 
would have upon the visiting emissaries of other and 
more democratic nations. 

Bridal and Funeral Ceremonies 

In Peking the street life is fascinating beyond descrip- 
tion. The springless Pekingese carts, drawn by mules or 
ponies, are resplendent with varnished sides, silver- 
trimmed harness, and silken hangings. In former days 
these carts, with their brilliant trappings, and the Sedan 
chairs were the only means of conveyance for the rich. 
Now, however, in Peking as elsewhere the automobile is 
omnipresent. China is the country of gorgeous funerals. 
In Peking they are famous. The richer the family the 
more magnificent the funeral. Even the poor mil spend 
the savings of years to bury their dead. There are dozens 
of bands of music (making the awfulest, most excruci- 
ating sounds), hired mourners who run ahead and shriek 
at certain intervals; priests in splendid robes are as 
numerous as the purse of the family will allow. To one 
unused to the sight there was always a question in the 




L 






A 



A large square outside the Forbidden City, Peking 




A part of the Forbidden Citj', Peking 



fer'v 




-s^^^lWWJJ* 




WpNllttii^^ 






l|l^ 


I^^^H^B^^Hh^^HHkjh 


T^ 




plu^i^ 


^^H| , it «i «* »• 1* *!? ,*f 


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f^ ..." 


!, . ■ ■■■ " ■ 







Grand Peace Palace, Forljidden City, Pckiiii 




Camels from the Western hills 



Across China; Shanghai, Canton 181 

mind — was it a wedding or a funeral? Much the same 
ceremony attends each. All the poor occidental can do is 
to stick around until either the corpse or the bride comes 
into view if he wishes to satisfy his curiosity. 

Almost every one agrees that of the sights of Peking 
the Temple of Heaven is the finest. This is saying much 
when one begins mentally to enumerate them, the Yel- 
low Temple, the Lama Temple, the Summer Palace, the 
Ming tombs (not far away from the city), last of all, the 
Great Wall, these glories are but a twentieth of those 
which might be named in a very short time. But the 
Temple of Heaven, in the lower part of the Chinese City, 
surrounded by its three-and-a-half -mile wall, is in archi- 
tecture, location, dignity, and sheer beauty a worthy sec- 
ond to the Taj Mahal. Its grounds are filled with gnarled 
old cypresses, firs, and pines. This was the most sacred of 
all the temples of China, and here the ceremonies were 
once magnificent. Here once a year came the emperor 
to worship at the shrine of his ancestors, who in this 
case were not the members of his own family, but all the 
emperors who had reigned before him. Accompanied by 
thousands of his highest officials, they, in turn, attended 
by their personal retinues, clad in the costliest gowns 
that the empire afforded, made a pageant well worth 
seeing. The trouble was that no one saw it. The pro- 
cession formed at the Forbidden City before the em- 
peror's palace. All the houses along the route had to be 



182 All the Way 'Round 

closed until they had passed. What a pity ! So splendid 
a spectacle and nobody to see it! The emperor was 
called The Son of Heaven, and here in the Temple he 
went to worship alone. He spent the night in fasting 
and prayer. Then in the morning, joined by his follow- 
ers, the open ceremony was held. This custom was many 
centuries old, but, like most customs, passed with the 
Empire. 

How the Emperors Prayed 

Nothing could be more beautiful than the white mar- 
ble altars of the Temple of Heaven. They are right out 
in the open and consist of three circular terraces with 
balustrades and triple staircases at the four cardinal 
points. By means of these one ascends to the upper ter- 
race, which is ninety feet wide, the base being two hun- 
dred and ten feet across. The platform is laid with 
marble stones in nine concentric circles, and everything 
is arranged in multiples of the number nine. Prostrate 
on the ground before these white altars, surrounded first 
by the terraces and then by the horizon, the emperor at 
prayer seemed to be the center of the universe. He 
acknowledged himself inferior to heaven, but to heaven 
alone. Around him on the pavement the nine circles 
widened into each successive multiple until eighty-one 
was reached. The square of nine is the favorite number 
in numerical philosophy. 



Across China; Shanghai, Canton 183 

There was a seat on the terrace where The Son of 
Heaven, his own prayer at an end, sat to watch the rest 
of the ceremony. But no foreigner ever was permitted 
to see anything in connection with it. No priests offi- 
ciated, only royalty and its following, and the latter were 
in training many months in advance. In one corner of 
the temple near the altar are some green tiles on which 
the sacred bullock was slaughtered. The calf must be 
without blemish and of uniform color. Eight metal bra- 
ziers encircle the altar and these were used for burnt 
offerings of silk, written prayers (after they had been 
read), and other sacred things. With the passing of the 
Chinese empire and the doing away with royalty, these 
picturesque and ancient ceremonies came to an end. No 
more now does a Son of Heaven worship his ancestors 
in this beautiful temple. 

Oregon Pine in One Temple 

Not far from here is another edifice known as the 
Temple of the Happy New Year. It was struck by light- 
ning in 1889 and pretty badly damaged. I was interested 
to learn that when it came to restoring it they could 
produce in China no beams sufficiently massive to support 
the roof. They looked the world over and finally used 
our own Oregon pine. The pine which was sent to rebuild 
it was shipped from Portland. 

Every conqueror of China tried to take unto himself 



l^ All the Way 'Round 



the privilege of worshiping at the Temple of Heaven. 
But when Yuan Shih K'ai assumed the dictatorship, and 
sought to take advantage of the imperial privilege, it 
was so distasteful to the Chinese that he never tried it 
but once. 

The Lama Temple is really a monastery. The monks 
in their orange and yellow costumes, carrying a bunch 
of peacock feathers which they wave as a signal for the 
ceremonies to begin, are quite unusual and very interest- 
ing to watch. They have both cymbals and drums, but 
the most curious of their musical instruments is the conch 
shell, which they blow. We had hoped to see the Lama 
dance, said to be both hideous and terrible, the costumes 
being death masks. They whip and scourge themselves, 
yell, and act more like demons than human beings. But 
they rarely give the dance now and none was held while 
we were there. 

Winning a Breakfast 

I had an interesting experience at the entrance of the 
temple of Confucius. We observed that a gambling 
game was going on, straws being drawn to decide the 
winner. Quite a crowd had gathered and everybody was 
taking part in the game. We joined it, paid our money, 
and took our chance with the rest. Everybody lost but 
me. I had won twelve delicious dishes to eat, so my guide 
told me, pointing out the delectable ( ?) things which were 
mine. I gazed upon my winnings with consternation. 





Lama Temple, Peking Temple of Heaven, Peking 

An outer gate to the Temple of Heaven, Peking 



Across China; Shanghai, Canton 185 

Nothing on the face of the earth could have induced me 
to even taste a mouthful of these dishes, prepared by the 
poorer class of Chinese and exposed for hours in the 
open to all the germs which China has to offer. But the 
crowd was watching me and I feared to give offense. 
Suddenly I had an inspiration. Turning to the guide, I 
asked him to explain that I had just breakfasted and was 
not a bit hungry. I begged that the crowd would be my 
guests. The way they fell upon those twelve dishes and 
devoured them! And the way the priests laughed and 
thanked me ! Wliat an immense relief to me ! For a few 
minutes it had been a close call. 

The chief attraction in the temple of Confucius here 
is ten chiseled boulders inscribed with a description of a 
great hunting expedition which the emperor, Shan, un- 
dertook three thousand years ago. The stones are known 
as the " stone drums of the Chow dynasty." They were 
discovered in the seventh century. 

A Palace for a Navy 

The morning we spent in the Summer Palace was like 
a trip to fairyland. The grounds are exquisitely kept. 
The loveliest white marble bridge spans the most charm- 
ing little lake in the enclosure. It was this palace which 
eventually cost the old Empress Dowager her crown, for 
she built it with the money which had been appropriated 
for the purpose of strengthening the Chinese Navy. 



186 All the Way 'Round 

When war came the navy crumpled up and was lost. 
But the Summer Palace is a dream, and in one of the 
rooms there still hangs a portrait (in oils) of this re- 
markable woman. She has little of the look of the con- 
cubine. First and last she has the look of sovereignty 
in her countenance. Her long, thin face ; her calm, shrewd 
eyes ; her intellectual forehead give evidence of the power 
she wielded for more than half a century. People in 
China regarded the old empress as the wisest living 
creature, and although they recognize that she once 
showed a woman's weakness in that she built a palace 
instead of strengthening her navy, with a snarling world 
around her, she still holds her place as one of the Great. 



CHAPTEE XVI 

THE QXJADBUPLE-WALLED CITY OP PEKING; ONWAED TO 
MANCHUEIA 

AS I look back over the years of my husband's public 
^ service, I find that very charming memories come of 
the occasions when we had the privilege and the pleasure 
of entertaining princes and nobles, and many of the 
world's distingTiished. During his father's public life and 
his own it was our pleasant fortune to have as guests four 
presidents of the United States, one of whom (President 
Harrison) was a relative. The others were Presidents 
Cleveland, McKinley, and Taft. In speaking of these, 
however, I do not mean to belittle any of the distinguished 
foreigners whom we also received ; and although we never 
thought at the time of the far-distant day when we should 
be world-travelers, we found the truth of the biblical say- 
ing, " Cast thy bread upon the waters and it will return 
to you after many days." Many places that we went, 
ourselves having forgotten them, we found that these 
courtesies were remembered and either returned or, as 
was the case of the invitation to tea with the royal family 
of Spain, an attempt was made to return them. In most 
instances, because of restricted time, we declined these 
invitations. We had gone on our tour not for the social 
events which might be offered us, but to see the wonders 

187 



188 All the Way 'Round 

and note the customs of the countries we were to visit. 

Acquaintance with Prince Imperial 

In China, however, we made an exception. The late 
Empress Dowager sent as her personal representative to 
the World's Fair at St. Louis, His Excellency, Pu Lun, 
Prince Imperial of China. He was entertained at the 
White House, and we were asked by the government to 
make his stay in Chicago just as pleasant as possible. 
My husband appointed a committee to care for him, we 
ourselves gave a dinner for him, followed by an evening 
at the theater. I gathered together a few ladies, and 
with the members of his suite we filled several boxes. 
Prince Pu Lun proved a delightful acquaintance. A 
thorough man of the world, highly educated, he charmed 
everybody. As the representative of the Imperial Family 
and as a general in the Chinese army, this dignified gen- 
tleman was showered with honors wherever he went. 

When we reached Peking we asked Mr. Peck, secre- 
tary of the American Legation, if he would not try to 
arrange for us to have an interview with Prince Pu Lun. 
Through his own and Mrs. Peck's kindness we had a 
delightful afternoon at tea with him. The Prince always 
has an interpreter. Whether he speaks English or not 
I do not know, but even if he does, etiquette requires the 
interpreter. In his handsome Chinese dress he made an 
impressive figure as he talked, and almost his first words 




Near the Lama Temple, Peking Near the Central Gate, 

Forbidden City, Peking 

Yellow Temple, Peking 




Grounds of the Temple of Heaven, Peking 




■• vAh . . t« #v»**ICtulL^■»^ 



An entrance to the Temple of Heaven, Peking 



The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking 189 

on greeting us were : " It is to me a source of the most 
profound regret that the Imperial Family of China is 
no longer in a position to show you the courtesies which 
you once extended to me." He lives in the Forbidden 
City, but because of the illness of his wife he could not 
ask us to his home. (I wondered which wife I) 

His Remarkable Memory 

I discovered that, as is usual with the Chinese, he has 
an excellent memory. One of his first questions was, 
" How is the lady who asked why I removed my cap ? " 
On the night that I had taken them all to the theater in 
Chicago — remember that it was now twenty years ago — 
all the members of his party had worn skull caps. One 
of my feminine guests, eagerly watching every movement 
of the royal visitor to find in each little gesture some 
significance, had put this question to the interpreter. The 
latter replied, "Because he is warm, I think!" How we 
all laughed, none more heartily than the Prince himself. 
I thought his recollection of the incident remarkable. 

Paul Reinsch, an American Minister to China, says of 
him: "Pu Lun was one of the most delightful men in 
all China," and in one paragraph of his book he thus 
describes him : "At the reception of President Yuan Shih 
K'ai, which was held in the residence of the Dowager 
Empress in 1914, all the diplomatic corps were present. 
Every official was in splendid uniform. From a side room 



190 All the Way 'Round 

whither we had withdrawn we looked into the main hall 
and saw that its floor had been entirely cleared. A mo- 
ment later, a solitary figTire in the uniform of a general 
proceeded across the floor toward Yuan Shih K'ai. It 
was the Prince Pu Lun. Walking alone and unattended, 
the representative of the Chinese Imperial Family had 
come to bring its felicitations to the President of the new 
Republic! For the first time since the abdication, the 
Imperial Family was taking notice of him who had 
replaced them in power." 

Every Inch a Prince 

There is unquestionably something in being born to 
the purple. Pu Lun has the air of a prince. Everything 
about him bespeaks royalty. One would never mistake 
him for just an ordinary citizen. Yet personally he is the 
most modest of men. When Mr. Harrison said to him 
that we had heard with regret of the old Empress' deci- 
sion to make the present young Prince Imperial her heir, 
and that we had often talked of him and of what the 
years might bring to China could he himself have con- 
trol, he replied : " I have no regrets. China is far better 
as a republic. I fear that I should never have had the 
power even as ruler to execute my desires for China (he 
is a progressive), so, what might my regime have brought 
to her? No. The loss of any possible power or honor 
which I might have had has never caused me the least 



The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking 191 



regret." This answer, spoken with the simple dignity of 
the real aristocrat, is characteristic of the man. 

Mr. Harrison told him that he still had the decoration 
which the Empress had bestowed upon him, the Order 
of the Dragon, the highest honor which she could bestow 
upon a foreigner. He seemed pleased with this bit of 
information. My husband did not think it necessary, 
however, to explain that the only reason he had it was 
that it did not arrive until he had left public life and 
became once more a private citizen. While in office he 
had refused all decorations. The one which I have always 
felt hurt him most to refuse was that of the Legion of 
Honor, tendered him by an official on behalf of the 
French government. Americans in office have made it 
the unwritten law to refuse all such honors, and although 
some do accept, he always declined. For this same rea- 
son he refused to accept the German Emperor's offer 
(a high honor) of the Eed Eagle. But this gorgeous 
Chinese dragon did not arrive until he had been out of 
office for more than a month. So far as I am able to 
recall, the only good it has ever done him was to impress 
a very high-class Chinese cook which we had one winter 
in California. At first this man was very haughty both 
in appearance and manner. But the awe on his face 
when he saw that decoration was sublime. We were ever 
afterward treated by the pigtailed gentleman with the 
most profound respect. 



^ All the Way ^Round 

Off for the Ming Tombs 
We arose one morning at the usual unearthly hour to 
take a six o'clock start for the Ming tombs. Rumors of 
war were becoming stronger, fighting getting closer every 
day. Many of the timid had already left China without 
makmg any attempt to see these wonderful tombs. But 
it had been disappointment enough to us to miss seeing 
that of Confucius, and we determined that we were not 
going to miss these. On this especial morning it was 
raming pretty hard. Undeterred, we donned rain-coats 
over our heavy wraps, for it was biting cold. We reached 
Nankow at about twelve. Half an hour later, wrapped 
m waterproofs (it was still raining), we set off for the 
tombs. Our chairs had canvas covers, and there were 
four bearers for each of them. As the canvas covered 
only the top, it was little protection, and although we had 
fur rugs we were nearly frozen. The wind was high 
The ram blew in from the sides. All of us had sore 
throats from the Peking dust. But we all decided that it 
was Christian Science day for us. We were going to the 
Ming tombs, colds or no colds. 

The eleven miles of country which we crossed were 
for the most part desert, but the mountains fringing the 
sands were superb, seen through the mist. Occasionally 
we passed a small village, but we were too wet and 
uncomfortable to take much interest in it. After a few 
hours' ride we arrived at the pailotv, and when we got 




Grounds of the Temple of the 
Universe, Peking 

Entrance to the Temple of the 
Green Clouds, Peking 



Marble Pagoda near the Jade 
Fountain, Peking 

Grounds of the Temple of the 
Green Clouds, Peking 




Temple of Prayer, Peking 




Entrance to the Lama Temple, Peking 



The Quadruple- Walled City of Peking 193 

out of our chairs to examine it we promptly forgot our 
discomfort and stood in admiration. Its arches are 
superbly carved, the figures of lions and dragons splen- 
didly done, all in stone, of course. What a fine concep- 
tion of the artistic and beautiful had that old Ming em- 
peror who designed this entrance to the tombs! The 
Mings, by the way, were the last native Chinese emperors. 
And the great grievance of China, underlying all her 
agitation and unrest, is really the fact that for three 
centuries their country has been ruled, not by the Chi- 
nese themselves but by the alien Manchus. What a story 
of oppression and wrong it is ! Dr. Sun Yat Sen, more 
courageous than the rest of his people, gave it out a few 
years later in a perfect flood of literature which reached 
the uttermost parts of the earth, and prepared the minds 
not only of China but of the friends of China all over the 
world for the death of the oldest empire in existence 
and the birth of a young republic. 

"A Kingly Setting for Royalty " 

On one side of the pailotu a broad, open roadway 
stretches away for miles and miles, straight to the city 
of Peking. On the other side, equally straight, is a road 
of three miles leading to the thirteen tombs of the Ming 
dynasty. Back of that semi-circle of tombs the moun- 
tains lift themselves as a background. What a kingly 
setting for royalty, even, to lie in! This approach to 



194 All the Way 'Round 

the tombs is called the Holy AVay. It is most impressive. 
One enters a wonderful avenue of beasts and men — 
colossal lions, horses, elephants, and other animals; 
equally colossal figures of warriors and priests, per- 
fectly carved of granite and stone. Each of the tombs 
is on the side of a mountain, therefore conspicuous before 
it is reached. 

The finest of the tombs is that of Yung Lo, who died 
in 1424. As it is practically impossible for one to visit 
all the tombs (they are a mile or two apart), it is this 
one which is usually inspected. Both the gateway and 
the tomb itself are splendid pieces of work, but I am told 
that the greatest of the Mings was really buried under 
the huge mound back of the palace, that all his furniture 
and personal belongings are walled up in the palace and 
have never been opened since his death. One feels how 
limited is one's vocabulary when standing before such 
edifices as these. Magnificent, impressive, imposing — 
how tame the words sound when viewing some archi- 
tectural wonder which one has come across the whole 
world to see! All the way back to the hotel we could 
think of no adjectives sufficiently descriptive to express 
what we had that day seen. We arrived after dark, half- 
frozen and weary, but happy — after a stiif Kentucky 
toddy which my husband made us and which warmed us 
up nicely. In spite of the hard beds we certainly slept 
the sleep of the just that night and were nicely rested 



The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking 195 
by morning and ready for the road once more. 

A View of the Great Wall 

The next day was bright and sunny. It was my hus- 
band's birthday, and we decided to celebrate by going 
to the Great Wall. We felt in fine feather and made an 
early start. We took the train from Nankow to Chin- 
lungchiao. This is a station for the Wall. We found the 
city filled with hundreds and thousands of visitors, all 
of whom had come to see the unveiling of a statue. We 
also saw the unveiling of that statue. It was unique. 
It was the first time I had ever seen a man carved in 
stone wearing evening dress! 

The Great Wall, as everybody knows, is one of the 
Seven Wonders of the World. It begins at Shan-hai- 
Quan, by the sea, runs across the northern boundary of 
China proper, crosses the Desert of Gobi, just south of 
Thibet, One can but pause once more, and wonder at 
the civilization which must once have existed in China 
when he looks at this marvelous structure. Think what 
it meant to build this Wall. It took a million men ten 
years to build it, and an army of a hundred thousand to 
protect them while they worked. The outer pavings are 
of sun-dried brick, and the Wall was built two hundred 
years before Jesus of Nazareth was born. It is fifteen 
hundred miles long now, fifty feet wide and thirty-five 
feet high. Formerly it was seventeen hundred miles 



196 All the Way 'Round 

long, but tliat portion of it which ran from Peking to the 
sea has been destroyed. Even the most hardened trav- 
eler, who has seen the sights of interest of the whole 
world, is thrilled when he stands before this architectural 
marvel. One must remember, in connection with it, that 
it was conceived and carried out without the aid of any 
foreign country. The Chinese themselves successfully 
planned and built those steep grades and sharp curves, 
solving themselves all the difficult problems always to be 
met in such an undertaking. Who can stand unmoved 
before it? Chinese history says little about this wonder- 
ful Wall. All we know is that it was constructed to keep 
out the Tartars. We of the present day stand before it 
in admiration and awe, feeling that it must have been 
built for more than one thing. It stands today an ever- 
lasting monument to the once-brilliant civilization of the 
iive-thousand-year-old empire of China. 

One of our great disappointments was that we could 
not make satisfactory arrangements to visit the tomb of 
Confucius. This country, which is absolutely dominated 
by the teachings and the influence of the great philoso- 
pher, is seemingly indifferent as to his tomb. One would 
naturally expect that it would be one of the show places 
of the land and that it would be made easy of access. 
But not so. It is an extremely hard trip to the Sacred 
Mountain, Tai Shan, in Shantung; and Chufou, also, the 
home of Confucius, is just as difficult to reach. With the 




# 



1 









cu 



H 



Ph 




P^ 



§ 




Winter Palace, Pekms 




A scene at the Winter i'alace. Pekincr 



The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking 197 

war closing in around us, anxious to utilize our every 

moment, we reluctantly gave it up. Timid friends were 

daily leaving us, turning their faces homeward, and when 

some of the trains were turned back, they, aghast at our 

indifference, got away by motor. But we had dined with 

our American minister, his charming family, his able 

assistant, Mr. R — , the first secretary. As long as 

they were willing for Americans to remain we decided to 

stay. 

Exploring the Attrc^ctions 

This beautiful state dinner, by the way, is one of the 
most delightful memories we carried away from China 
with us. In the midst of a profusion of spring flowers, 
in a gathering of notables, we sat down to a wonderful 
dinner. Mrs. Wood, wife of the governor-general of the 
Philippines, was a guest of Mrs. Schurman and Avas vis- 
iting at the Legation, a fact which added much to our 
pleasure. The next day the wife of the first secretary 
gave a charming luncheon at which we met more inter- 
esting people, both American and Chinese, living in 
Peking. With these delightful gaieties, together with our 
sight-seeing, we forgot the war clouds and gave ourselves 
up to enjoyment. We calmly and thoroughly explored the 
shops, bazaars, temples, palaces, gardens, artificial lakes, 
and all the other beauties of Peking. True, we were con- 
stantly warned of the ominous quiet which preceded the 
Boxer outburst, and were reminded more than once that 



198 All the Way 'Eouncl 

that tragedy might have been averted had the Legation 
been a little more alert. We replied that China was now 
a republic and that that old she-devil, Tsze Hsi, the Em- 
press Dowager, was no longer alive to instill into the 
minds of her people hatred toward foreigners. 

What a wonderful creature that wicked woman was! 
What a mind, what an intellect, what a memory was hers. 
AVliat determination she displayed ! She was one of the 
emperor's beautiful concubines, but after she became the 
mother of his only son he put her in a position second 
only to the empress. So great was the power she wielded 
over him, and so marked was her ability that she was 
really the empress for twelve years after his death. In 
fact, she was the real ruler of China from 1861 to 1908, 
nearly half a century, and no matter how one views her, 
her ability must be acknowledged. True, she was a devil, 
a fiend. She murdered, killed, and swept out of her way 
those who interfered with her schemes and ambitions. 
She was accused even of the murder of the emperor 
who gave her all power, and of that of her only child, 
the heir apparent. She spared no one except the reputed 
lover of her youth, Jung Lyn. To him she was always 
faithful. She made his grandson emperor, sweeping aside 
all the other rightful heirs to the throne. Standing in 
her wonderful and gorgeous palaces, examining her many 
priceless treasures, we tried our best to visualize this 
royal vixen as she really was. 



The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking 199 

I heard a good story of this royal lady while in Peking. 
She was mad, it seems, to have a ride in a motor. She 
had seen and admired the swift, quiet motion of the cars 
and had bought many, but she died within sight of the 
promised land. The government was still struggling with 
the problem of how to teach the chauffeur to drive on his 
knees (of course he could not sit down in the royal pres- 
ence!) when she departed this life. 

Ancestors and Coffins 

They say that anybody can be happy in Peking. So 
many and so varied are the interests there. To those who 
love the temples the pagodas are, of course, a wealth of 
pleasure. Many of them are falling into decay, but they 
are still beautiful. Like the pagodas of India, these also 
are erected as a sort of propitiatory offering to the gods, 
for the purpose of bringing good luck to the builders. 
The strangest thing to me in the ancestor worship of 
China is this. Their ancestors, seemingly, are a series of 
demons. Their every sacrifice is for the purpose of pro- 
pitiating them, to prevent, as it were, their return to do 
them evil ! It seems never to occur to them that if they 
can really return and harm them they might also return 
and help them. This view, however, they never recognize. 

So far as my observation went, the principal piece of 
furniture in China is a coffin. These are scooped out of 
logs and are kept many years before death. After death 



200 All the Way 'Eound 

the body is left exposed (sometimes, by the poorer class, 
for months) until the time shall be propitious for burial. 
They study the elements, the stars, etc., to ascertain when 
this shall be. The rich rent a room in which the body is 
kept, and often priests are paid as high as ten dollars a 
day to ascertain by the means mentioned just when the 
propitious hour for burial shall be. We saw one of these 
coffins which had been kept for twenty-five years, the 
priests receiving daily their stipulated sum, unable (no 
doubt because of the good income) to find the proper 
time. 

The idea is being promulgated that the binding of the 
women's feet is passing. We saw much evidence that it 
still exists. The sight of babies screaming with pain, 
and otherwise pretty women hobbling about was quite 
common. Other and older women, rich and fat, come to 
the temples, either hobbling on their crippled feet or 
being carried on the backs of their coolies. Of all cus- 
toms this is certainly the silliest. It is said to have origi- 
nated from the fact that one of the emperor's favorite 
concubines was club-footed, and to honor her the other 
women of the court had their feet crippled. 

Where Man Is Lord Supreme 

Although there is no caste in China the lot of the 
Chinese woman is scarcely less enviable than that of the 
Indian woman. The small-footed real wife is often neg- 




Drum Temple, Peking 



PP^ 




Grounds of the Summer Palace, Peking 



The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking 201 

lected for the large-footed concubine whom her husband 
chooses. Though he cannot put away his legal wife, as 
can the Indian man, usually he neglects her, traveling 
about openly with the one he prefers. The wife has no 
redress whatever. Public opinion permits the Chinese 
man to conduct himself as he chooses. He is monarch of 
all he surveys. In these days of enlightenment it seems 
a sad thing that the lot of the Chinese woman does not 
improve. Often she is beautiful, educated, and refined. 
Her whole life is to please her husband, no matter how 
dissolute, unfaithful, or unkind he may be. 

There is no woman movement in China. That this is 
so makes every other woman who visits the country 
fighting mad. Should the Chinese women ever demand 
their rights, what a debt the men of the country would 
have to pay ! The oriental view is that woman is much 
happier under their system — that she is to bear the chil- 
dren, keep the house and be contented with what little is 
allotted her. But the sordid life she is forced to lead fills 
me with indignation. When the thought of a nation is 
that the more wives and the more children a man has the 
more he shall be respected, what argument can possibly 
be brought forth in behalf of woman? The boy is the 
whole thing in China. To have a male child is the greatest 
honor in the land. Though the slaughter of infant girls 
is not so universal as formerly, there is still plenty of it 
going on. The "girl towers," as they were called, are 



202 All the Way 'Round 

still in existence. An object, however small, dropped into 
one of these towers could never be gotten out, and into 
them the superfluous girl babies were once placed by the 
thousands. Think of it ! The practice is now forbidden, 
but the towers are still there. 

Advised to Leave City 

Our weeks in Peking were flying. So rapidly did the 
time pass that we began to realize that we must really 
say good-bye to the city's fascinations if we wished to 
catch our steamer for America. We still had friends to 
see, but we knew now that we ought to get out of China. 
The two fighting generals, Wu-pei-Fu and Chang-Tso- 
Ling, were still struggling for control. They were tearing 
up railroad tracks daily, turning back trains, and at last 
we were advised to leave. 

Dr. Sun Yat Sen, the great reformer, is very quiet. 
Neither he nor the President of China, Hsu Chi Chiang, 
seemingly, had anything to say. The papers rarely men- 
tioned either of them. But the two fighting generals were 
greatly in evidence. 

. Most reluctantly we bade adieu to our friends and to 
this wonderful old city. We could not afford to miss the 
boat and thus disappoint our children in Chicago. Our 
last day was spent with Mr. and Mrs. A — , of the Lega- 
tion, in the home they loved best, an old temple which 
they had fixed up a bit so that it could be occupied for 



The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking 203 

week-ends and short holidays. Mr. A — had just been 
ordered back to Washington, so they were spending the 
last of their stay in China in this delightful old place. It 
was some ten miles out of Peking, and, though small, was 
exquisite in detail. It had an adorable setting in pretty 
grounds, amidst lovely trees, and the usual mounds — 
ancestral graves — were there, of course. Beyond, far in 
the distance, was the outline of the western hills. It was 
a charming picture that we brought away with us of these 
young people resting here in their vacation hours, devo- 
ting themselves to outdoor life before saying good-bye to 
China. 

Beauties of the Great River 

I cannot leave this country without speaking of the 
Yang-tse-kiang, the Great River. It runs westward 
through China to the Himalayas, dividing the country into 
North and South China. Its channels are fifteen fathoms 
deep. It is fed by numberless small creeks. It is three 
thousand miles long, navigable for eight hundred. It is 
one of the most majestic of streams. The grandest river 
gorges in the world are on the Yang-tse. We crossed it a 
few times, but to our regret we could not travel on it to 
any extent because of the fighting. Passengers were not 
taken on the river while we were in China. The Chinese 
will not rescue a drowning person from the Yang-tse. 
The superstition is that the Spirit of the Yang-tse is 
claiming a soul, and that interference would cause the 



204 All the Way 'Eound 

Spirit great offense. The current of the river is very 
swift, therefore one who falls in the stream is always lost. 
Despite the criticism (which is omnipresent), China 
seems to be prospering and the republic with her. At 
least the people are beginning to acquire confidence in 
themselves, something they have never had before. The 
"World War helped China to prosper, and for this the 
republic gets the credit. The number of those who yearly 
died of starvation has been greatly reduced, and even this 
seems to them like prosperity. Though, from our stand- 
point, China is still terribly poor, she is constantly im- 
proving, and as luck is with the republic it will surely 
stand. When Dr. Sun started in on his work of building 
an ideal republic he Avas farsighted, as any one who has 
watched his progress must admit. There are those 
Chinese who still hold that the young emperor will yet 
be returned to the throne. But few believe them. Even 
if he should be returned he would not last long. He would 
be put out of the way very speedily. The people want 
the republic. And the republic they will have ! 

Disease the Bane of China 

But physical stamina is dependent upon mental reac- 
tion, and poor China, with its tornado of disease, is in a 
deplorable state, just like the rest of the Orient. There 
are many splendid types in China, but very few old men. 
People rarely live beyond seventy. Someone has dilated 




Hall of Classics, Pekinc 




Gateway to the Hall of Classics, Peking 




Holy Way to the Aling Tombs, Peking 




An elephant figure, Holy Way, Peking 



The Quadruple- Walled City of Peking 205 



at length on strengthening the Chinese army. It will 
never be accomplished without a general house-cleaning, 
the wiping out of disease, and general sanitation. Dysen- 
tery is the monster of this country. In terror of it, every 
white man wears a flannel band over his stomach at night. 
Often they laugh about it, saying that they do not believe 
it necessary. But they wear it just the same. Smallpox 
is everywhere. The Chinese call it the Heavenly Flower ! 
They will not vaccinate themselves, but require vaccina- 
tion of all foreigners. Typhoid claims many. Cancer, 
leprosy, eye trouble flood the country, and nearly every- 
body has intestinal bacteria. Hookworm in the Far East 
is universal. One drawback to improved sanitation in 
China is that the people have no sense of proportion. 
They will sit down to eat their food amidst the most 
filthy surroundings. They can spread their table above 
a cess-pool, and seemingly it does not disturb them in 
the least. The Eockefeller hospital in Peking, said to be 
the finest institution in the world, is working wonders for 
China's health. Here our friend. Dr. D — of Chicago, 
deserted us. He is a noted surgeon, nationally famous, 
and is giving his splendid talent and experience for one 
year, teaching and demonstrating in this wonderful 
hospital. 

Whether China will ever become modernized is a ques- 
tion. But after sleeping for forty centuries, she is 
aroused. The great diif erence between the Occident and 



206 All the Wa.y 'Eound 

the Orient is a mental difference. It is too tremendous 
for any change to be other than slow. To change oriental 
thought into occidental reason is a task almost too colossal 
to contemplate. In time it may be possible, but it will take 
time, and a long time at that. 



CHAPTER XVII 

MANCHUEIA, HEB KELATION TO CHINA; KOEEA, HEB UNBEST 
AND HOSTILITY TO JAPAN 

OFF for Mukden and the beautiful scenery of Man- 
churia ! The story of the relation of Manchuria to 
China is most interesting, the rise of the Manchu dynasty 
more like romance than fact. There was no Manchu 
Empire in the sixteenth century. The people were just 
wild, uncultured barbarians, living in caves and con- 
stantly at war with the other tribes. But about 1616 one 
of these rulers of a barbaric tribe collected an army of 
men, built himself a palace and really started on the road 
to civilization. His name was Nurhachu. He was given 
the title of Ying Ming and was the Great Ancestor. He 
made Mukden his capital and was the founder of the 
Manchu dynasty. From him came the powerful Manchu 
family which for so long ruled over China. 

Reason for Walled Cities 

Even after they conquered China, or rather after they 
had captured the capital, Peking (to this day they have 
never really conquered the Chinese people!), they were 
still just a horde of savages, and, although for centuries 
they imposed their yoke upon the Chinese, the latter, to 

207 



208 All the Way 'Round 

a man, hated them cordially — a hatred which continues 
to this day. Finally, with the lapse of time, the Manchus 
grew weaker in their own country. They knew that the 
Chinese hated them, and this accounts for the fact that 
almost every Manchu city is a walled city, especially if it 
lies within a Chinese city, as often happens. Wherever 
they have congregated in any appreciable numbers they 
have always walled themselves in. But in time their 
power in China became absolute and they furnished her 
with that wonderful and wicked old Empress, Tsze Hsi, 
the last of the imperial reign. 

One thing is interesting to note. The Manchus im- 
posed their dress completely upon the Chinese. After 
three centuries, the Manchu women still wear the pic- 
turesque headdress of their own country, and a heel in 
the middle of their shoes. They are easily distinguish- 
able from the Chinese women, although it is now difficult 
to tell a Manchu man from a Chinaman. One of the 
symbols of degradation imposed upon the Chinaman by 
the Manchus was the wearing of the queue. Now, how- 
ever, both Manchu and Chinaman cut it, and they look 
very much alike. 

I am told that the women are quite progressive in 
Mukden, that they take active interest in the hospital 
established there by the missionaries, an institution which 
has prospered and been helped by both Chinese and 
Japanese. 




A young Lama priest, Peking In summer attire, Peking 

On a country road 




The Great Wall of China 
Another view of the Great Wall 



Manchuria and Korea 209 



Train Ride a Nightmare 

When we took train for Mukden we were told that 
we should be at our destination the next evening at eight 
o'clock. Alas, we little dreamed of the horrors before us ! 
The train was packed. Sixty Americans were said to be 
on board, although I do not know whether this number is 
correct. There certainly were many. Like ourselves, 
they, too, had been told that it was time when we should 
all be asked to leave China. The day after we departed, 
our American minister, Mr. Schurman, issued the proc- 
lamation asking all Americans who were not obliged to 
remain to leave Peking. So, in consequence, the train was 
packed. Well-to-do Chinese were fleeing with their treas- 
ures in the attempt to save them in case of war. The 
dining car was filled with men, sleeping and coughing. 
One entrance was enough. We did not go near it again. 
We purchased some fruit, and we had learned to carry 
crackers and cheese and some wine in case of necessity. 
Our small compartment was most uncomfortable. From 
the American standpoint, tlie Chinese trains are the worst 
ever, and as hygiene and cleanliness play absolutely no 
part in their lives, we suffered intolerably. One dressing 
room on each car (which must be shared by both men and 
women) made it impossible for any American woman to 
enter it. 

But the scenery was beautiful. We crept up the moun- 
tain, twisting and turning as we climbed, finding new 



210 All the Way 'Round 

beauties at every heiglit. The mountam sides were cov- 
ered with a glorious pink bloom. It was late in April and 
the spring flowers were many and gorgeous; a superb 
carpet of deep rose seemed to dominate the color scheme, 
as had the yellow Chinese cabbage that of the country we 

had just left. 

Not Easily Converted 

Chosen is a country abounding in gold. It has also 
excellent coal beds and other minerals. As these resources 
have scarcely been touched, there is much talk of a day 
when things will boom here. Chosen is also the sixth 
largest cotton-producing country in the world. The 
people are diligent and peaceful and it seems that a bright 
future is before them. The missionaries, however, report 
that theirs has not been an easy task in Chosen. The 
natives do not easily accept the gospel of Christ, and the 
Catholic priests have often been martyrs in their en- 
deavor to teach them the truth. One old French priest 
told me that his life here had been full of misery. A 
similar story was told me in Japan. A Belgian priest said 
that the Japanese were the most difficult of any people to 
Christianize. " They will be nice to you, even friendly 
and courteous," he said, " but no amount of kindness or 
gratitude for it will bring them to you to be baptized. To 
receive the faith they must be convinced. Once convinced, 
they are the finest Christians on earth; but oh," he sighed, 
" the work is so slow, so slow. I get terribly discouraged ! " 



Manchuria and Korea 211 

We were told of a curious disease which visited Man- 
churia in 1910 and 1911. It was called pneumonic plague, 
and it became a deadly epidemic. Forty-four thousand 
cases were reported, and there were forty-four thousand 
deaths. Not a single recovery was recorded! The 
Chinese authorities in Mukden, together with the mission- 
ary doctors, worked hard and with gratifying success to 
prevent the spread of the disease. A national conference 
was held later in Mukden to investigate the nature of the 
disease and to devise methods to prevent a recurrence. 

Another Ghastly Night 

We did not reach Mukden at eight the next night, as 
we had been informed that we should. Instead, we got 
there at five A. M. — after two nights on the road. It 
was a rough night experience. We could not even obtain 
a pillow. All during the day on the train we were told 
constantly we would reach Mukden at eight that evening, 
but we soon saw that it was impossible. We were getting 
later and later, being constantly held up while the troop 
trains passed. At last we asked to have the berths made 
up so that we could lie down and rest. There was no 
linen, nothing, in fact, to make them up with. All the 
bedding had been taken from the train. So we sat bolt 
upright until five o'clock the next morning when, the last 
troop train having passed, we were permitted to enter 
Mukden. That ghastly trip out of China ! We shall never 



212 All the Way 'Kound 

forget it. At Mukden we had just two hours to change all 
baggage, trunks, etc., and get a train before eight for 
Chosen. To add to the discomfort of the train trip, we 
were all fighting colds and headaches. By the time we 
reached Korea we were nearly dead. 

"All things come to him who waits ! " Finally we 
reached Seoul and stopped at its splendid hotel. It 
seemed as if we had reached heaven! It is charmingly 
situated and has a wondrous view of the mountains. The 
Korean men are a curious sight. They wear long white 
linen dusters and tall stove-pipe hats. Lingering in these 
comfortable quarters, we relaxed and tried to regain our 
poise and cheerfulness, both of which had abandoned us 
during that mad flight from China. Wise hotel man, this 
proprietor, who chose this spot on which to build. One 
of the most exquisite of the temples in the whole of Korea 
is right on the hotel grounds. No matter how weary one 
is, he cannot but rest here. 

Color Notes in Seoul 

Seoul is a beautiful city. It is encircled by lofty hills 
of granite the color of which changes at different hours 
of the day. Sometimes they are pure gold, sometimes the 
deepest blue. These high mountains about the city give 
the impression of a walled town. Seoul is a mass of 
color. The women dress most picturesquely, wearing 
brilliant coats of lettuce or apple green with scarlet 




A gateway, Seoul 




A street scene, Seoul 




White Buddha, Seoul 



Manchuria and Korea 213 

streamers. These coats fall from their heads to their 
knees, and they wear a small white cap. This queer 
get-up, it is said, was intended originally as a garment 
for men. It is now universally worn by the women, how- 
ever, while the men stick to their white linen dusters and 
small, black, stove-pipe hats. We saw a few women in 
short white coats and baggy trousers, but the striking 
note in the Korean bazaar is the scarlet streamer and 
the coat of apple green. 

There is not much to be seen in Seoul. It has a mu- 
seum, a zoo, and a palace. We had the feeling while we 
remained here that we were really in Japan. And we 
were ! Although Japan denies it, she really has annexed 
Korea. The best Japanese friend the Koreans had was 
Prince Ito, yet it was a Korean who murdered him. The 
criminal was taken to Japan for trial. He faced the 
death sentence calmly, but he was engaged in writing a 
poem when sentence was passed upon him. The Japanese 
government kindly gave him time to finish it. 

The hatred of the Koreans for Japan is deep-seated 
and not without reason. They cannot forgive the cruel, 
inhuman killing in 1895 of their beloved empress, Min. 
When she was dragged from the palace into the streets 
by the Japanese soldiery, their intention was to pour oil 
upon her and burn her to death. Many still believe this 
to have been the manner of her end. Her ladies, in the 
attempt to save her, closed in around her, each declaring 



214 All the Way 'Eound 

herself to be the empress, and many of them meeting death 
in this horrible manner. It is claimed by many that the 
empress died also in this way, although others tell that 
she escaped to the apartments of the emperor, whither 
they followed her and, although it was the middle of the 
night, put her to the sword. Whatever the manner of her 
death, it certainly took place at the hands of the soldiers 
of Japan. 

Attending a Korean Wedding 
We made a trip many miles out into the country, 
passing beautiful scenes on the way, to see the White 
Buddha, a curious and enormous figure of the god painted 
on a rock. The mountains here are magnificent. We 
made the trip partly by motor and partly by 'ricksha. 
As we were returning, attracted by the festive appear- 
ance of a little village, we stopped. The people were 
very friendly. They told us that there was to be a wed- 
ding and invited us to accompany them. We did so, and 
that Korean wedding proved a joy to our eyes in its riot 
of color and its curious ceremony. In the central room 
of the house stood a charming young girl, the bride. She 
faced an older woman, her mother. The guests, arrayed 
in every color of the rainbow, with gifts in their hands, 
lined the walls. The bride was in the native costume, a 
combination of red, black, and yellow. She wore a very 
high headdress, with combs and jeweled pins. Her arms 
were laden with jewels, bracelets, etc. In the center of 



Manchuria and Korea 215 

the room, in an open space, was a small altar. Soft music 
began. The girl started slowly dancing, the mother clap- 
ping her hands in time to the soft music and singing a low 
chant. As the girl danced around the altar the mother 
kept close to her. The guests now came slowly forward, 
placing their gifts upon the altar. Really, it was a beau- 
tiful sight, and, although everybody was pressing forward 
to see, they put us ahead, showing us plainly that we 
were welcome. The groom, by the way, was nowhere in 
sight. I believe he was to arrive later, but we could not 
wait to see him. 

Off to Catch the Steamer 

The journey from Seoul to Fusan is through lovely 
cultivated country, everywhere varied by hill scenery. 
Wheat, rice, barley, beans, millet, and other cereals grow 
here in profusion, and mingling with them was the ex- 
quisite green of the mountains and the delicate pink of 
the azaleas. It is a twenty-hour ride, but we had a com- 
partment to ourselves and were comfortable. Everybody 
on earth, it seems to me, smokes except ourselves ! And 
that compartment, tiny as it was, was most agreeable. 
We could close the door and open the windows and be 
happy. Outside, clouds of smoke everywhere, and every 
window closed. 

Fusan is really a beautiful spot, an ideal situation for 
a harbor. The bay itself is surrounded with high hills, 
showing splendid cultivation of fruit trees and gardens. 



216 All the Wa}^ 'Round 

The harbor contains an island which has a channel on 
either side, permitting boats to pass each way. Fusan has 
many Shinto shrines. The constant ringing of bells 
reminded us that the worshipers were being sunamoned to 
their deities, but we had no time for further sight-seeing. 
It was already late in the afternoon, dark was approach- 
ing, and we were to sail at eight sharp. "VVe had quite 
enough to keep us busy gathering up our belongings (of 
which, alas, we had as much as the ordinary tourist, eight 
or ten pieces, not to mention a typewriter and a medicine 
chest), so we were forced to close our eyes to the beauties 
of Fusan and think of practical necessities. 



w 



CHAPTER XVin 

IN THE LITTLE PEOPLE'S COUNTRY — LOVELY JAPAN 

E WERE waiting for the three-thousand-ton Jap- 



anese ship which was to take us across to Shimono- 
seki, but before we boarded her we were to have a some- 
what exciting experience. It was after seven o'clock at 
night. The boat was to sail in half an hour. Mrs. H — , 
a very pretty little widow from Milwaukee, in her early 
twenties, came up to us crying, and in great excitement 
told us that her companion and friend had disappeared 
with their guide, with whom they had been having trouble. 
They had been gone more than an hour and she was 
terribly alarmed. 

Her friend, like herself, a pretty young woman and 
from the same city, had gone with the man to change 
some money with which to pay and dismiss him. The 
guide had been engaged by them for the six weeks travel 
in Japan, but during the few days that they had had him 
he had robbed them right and left, and they had decided 
to dismiss him. American girls cannot be browbeaten in 
any country. This man, highly recommended by the 
hotel, had been most impertinent and had shown a dis- 
tinctly ugly fight, telling them that they had no right to 
discharge him. Things in the Orient are quite different 
from those at home. Two older women might have done 
this same thing, but doubtless they would have managed 
more diplomatically. They had engaged him for the six 

217 



218 All the Way 'Eound 

weeks and their method of getting rid of him tvas a bit 
high-handed. In this country it is not at all unusual for 
a woman to disappear. It pays to be cautious and not to 

quarrel. 

Search for the Missing Woman 

While recognizing the force of the argument of this 
pretty little woman in her despair over her friend, and 
the justice of her appeal to my husband's sympathetic 
instincts, I was filled with consternation at the thought 
of his abandoning me on this ship, in a strange land the 
language of which I do not speak ; yet my higher nature 
kept me from remonstrating. They went together to 
look for her. As they disappeared I became sufficiently 
collected to appeal to the Japanese English-speaking cap- 
tain, although with little hope that he would do anything 
for me. To my surprise, however, he was very much con- 
cerned, saying that for a young woman to have gone alone 
with such a man and on such an errand was a terrible 
thing, that grave responsibilities lay in her act. He said 
he would hold the boat as long as he dared and in the 
meantime he would send a messenger to one or two places 
where he thought there might be a possibility of locating 
them. 

The messenger had scarcely disappeared when back 
came the young woman and the guide in smiling conver- 
sation. They had gone miles before they had been able 
to change the money, which accounted for the long delay. 




O bfi 



o >. 

C/) 3 



H 




Museum, Seoul 




Entrance to the Museum, Seoul 



In the Little People's Country 219 

A handsome tip at the moment of dismissal had appeased 
the guide's wrath and he had courteously escorted her 
back to the boat. Then — it was my turn to be terrified. 
What had become of my husband and the young widow^l 
Would they get back before the boat sailed ? I was almost 
distracted, and just as the young lady and I had decided 
to get off the boat bag and baggage and await their return 
they came in sight, very much disturbed that the young 
woman had not been found. I will pass over the meeting 
between the latter and the pretty widow. Frightened as 
she had been for the last hour, I did not blame her for 
the hysterical outburst against her friend. 

At the Itsuku Shrine 

We had a frightfully rough passage. Almost every- 
body was seasick, but we are good sailors and, although 
not altogether comfortable, we did not succumb. The 
next morning, at Shimonoseki, we took a train to Miya- 
jima, one of the three show places of Japan. The Itsuku 
shrine is a marvel of beauty. The island is sacred. No 
vehicles, not even a 'ricksha, are permitted upon it, and 
no one is allowed to die on it — the sick are removed. 
Only the people who are there for the upkeep of the island, 
a few little stores, and one or two hotels are upon it. One 
of the finest things in Japan is the Torii,^ and perhaps 

lA gateway of light skeleton-like post-and-lintel construction, built at 
the approach to sacred places. 



220 All the Way 'Round 

tlie most beautiful one in tlie whole country, is in front 
of the temple here. These Torii are before the gates to 
the temples, and this one is more often photographed 
perhaps than any other in the land. At high tide it is half 
submerged in water. Thousands of Japanese stone lan- 
terns are all over the island, and it is said that at festival 
time it is the most beautiful spot in the world. 

We saw here many quaint Japanese houses reminding 
us of those in the opera, Madame Butterfly. The women 
are diminutive. They sit about on the floor, and every- 
thing is so clean and inviting. Cleanliness, by the way, is 
typical of Japan. As we went through one of the temples 
a priest had some girls come out and give us a wonder- 
fully beautiful and graceful dance. These girls are four- 
teen or fifteen years old and wear their hair tied down 
their backs. They use the fan gracefully and are dressed 
in silk, with red skirts, over which a white kimono, lined 
with pink and embroidered with gold butterflies is worn. 
They are a beautiful sight. As one walks about this 
sacred island, which we did for several days, sees the 
charming landscape and the wonderful Buddhas (for 
which this country is famous), he really gets into the 

spirit of Japan. 

Exploring in Kioto 

Our next stop was Kioto. By the time we reached it 
we were thoroughly imbued with the spirit of these very 
busy little people, certainly the most industrious on the 



In the Little People's Country 221 



face of the earth. Dainty, exquisite, and always courteous 
as they are, however, the foreigner goes about with a 
feeling of distinct uneasiness. Even in the hotels which 
are not Japanese (we stayed but once in a strictly Jap- 
anese hostelry and it was really a monastery) the parti- 
tions are naught but little screens. No matter where we 
stayed we could hear them sliding softly in the night, and 
we were never without the feeling of being gazed upon. 
A friend told me that there was no question that we were 
looked upon far oftener than we were aware of — that as 
she one day stood ready to take a bath, arrayed just as 
she had come into this world, she was looking into the 
water into which she was about to plunge, when a voice 
from someivhere said : " Lady, that water is not meant to 
get into, but to be poured over you." 

We certainly saw beautiful things in Kioto, lacquer 
work, silks, jewels, Kano screens. These were the things 
we had dreamed of seeing when we came to Japan, and 
our dream was coming true. We saw here also two or 
three brides of the wealthy class. They were always 
dressed in three kimonos, one white, one red, and the third 
of some darker color always. These are called ceremonial 
robes and are as costly as the bride can afford. Unlike 
our brides, she never keeps her wedding gown. She never 
wears it but once. Some of these beautiful robes may 
be purchased occasionally, but they seldom find their way 
to America. 



222 All the Way 'Round 

Music for the Ancestors 

A description, or an attempt to describe the temples 
of Japan would really be outside the province of a book 
of travel. One can but mention them. They would re- 
quire a volume for each one. Exquisitely carved, richly 
jeweled, their priests in sumptuous robes, the brass gods 
— even had one the courage to venture forth upon a 
recital of their glories he would never get through. I 
will say here, though, that we were initiated into one of 
their peculiar superstitions. We were walking through 
one of those exquisite gardens for which Japan is famous, 
adjoining one of her large temples. I heard faint music 
and asked the guide if we might go in and listen. His 
answer was, "Decidedly not!" We learned then that 
only the priests can be present when that music is played. 
They are amusing the ancestors ! This provision is one 
of the regular duties of the priests. On certain days they 
amuse the ancestors by music and various other enter- 
tainments. I thought of the million or more amusements 
which are yearly provided for the living and was some- 
what aghast at the thought of attempting to amuse the 
dead. What a queer religion ! 

Here in Kioto we became greatly interested in Kano, 
his school of painting and the perfection of his screens, 
and in the Hocksai and Heroshigi pictures. For the first 
time I appreciated Japanese art. Also we saw here, for 
the first time, the work of the celebrated left-handed 




Miyajima, one of the show places of Japan 




Lanterns at Miyajima 




A veiy pretty Japanese girl 



In the Little People's Countiy 223 



sculptor, Hidara-Jingoro, whose work adorned the walls. 
We afterwards became thoroughly acquainted with some 
of his most famous pieces, among them the cat at Nikko. 

A Story of Lafcadio Hearn 

"We took a beautiful trip through the gorge of the 
Hodzu river, passing most beautiful gardens. It was here 
in Kioto that we met Burton Holmes, the well-known 
traveler and lecturer. With him were two good-looking 
young men whom he introduced to us as the sons of 
Lafcadio Hearn. As a girl I had known Mr. Hearn very 
well. He had been a frequent guest at my mother's house 
in New Orleans. And it was there that he got the color 
for Chita, a story of an island which once lay in the Gulf 
of Mexico. In one of those terrific convulsions of na- 
ture — a tidal wave — this island was submerged and 
lost. On it at the time were my grandfather, his wife 
and children and numberless slaves. It was a summer 
resort, and all on the island were lost. The only reason 
that my mother and one brother lived was that both were 
at college in northern towns. So, perhaps after all, my 
fear of the sea is an inheritance. All of his readers 
know that Mr. Hearn married a Japanese woman, was 
given a Japanese name, and became distinguished in 
Japan because of his writings. 

In Kioto we saw a wonderful Shinto procession. Mr. 
Nishi, our guide in Japan (and certainly the finest guide 



224 All the Way 'Round 

we ever knew), was familiar with every little custom 
of his country, and as an intellectual man could explain 
to us the hidden meaning of all the interesting things 
which we saw and which otherwise we could not have 
understood. Not the least of these were the five canopies 
of the Shinto procession, gorgeous, jeweled, flaming with 
gold, lacquered, each carried by a hundred coolies. All 
drunk with Sake, shrieking, practically naked, with only 
a small white garment wrapped about them, they shook 
this heavy canopy until it almost turned upside down. 
They formed a howling mob and when they saw us they 
kowtowed to us — a strange, barbaric sight. As these 
canopies containing the gods passed, all the sightseers did 
the same. They were very reverential. Behind each 
canopy rode priests robed in white silk. The patriotic 
shopkeepers placed Sake in the streets and the day was 
just given over to drunken revelry. 

Parading the Sdcred Carp 

These Shinto processions last for several days. 
Whenever a feast is going on, the city — the whole coun- 
try, in fact — is decorated with flags and banners and 
beautiful things. One of the most conspicuously beauti- 
ful of their banners is that of the fish. The carp 
is sacred in Japan. Its life is held up as a 
model for the young and they make a lot of cere- 
mony over the sacred carp. Therefore the fish banners 



In the Little People's Country 225 

are used in commemoration and to fire the imagination 
of the young. We first saw and admired these lovely 
banners in Korea. They range from the tiniest toy size 
to a monster fish. They form a riot of color, red, green, 
yellow, blue, purple, pink, and sometimes the combina- 
tion of all these shades is to be found in the same banner. 
They are beautiful things to look at as they float in the 
breeze, and when a whole town is festooned with them it 
certainly looks gay. We brought some of them home 
with us and intend decorating with them on our next 
Fourth of July. The reason the carp is held up as a 
model to the Japanese youth is that it is a game, fighting- 
fish. It always swims against the current. 

We arrived in Japan a little late for the cherry sea- 
son, but we had seen both the cherry and apricot blossoms 
in China and certainly nothing could be more beautiful. 
While we were in Kioto, however, we were told that the 
last of the cherry dances would be held, so we went one 
night to see the Geisha girls dance. It was early in May, 
and the dance was as pretty a thing as we had seen in 
all our journey. 

Woman's Status in Japan 

Unlike the other men of the Orient, the Japanese men 
go about with their women a great deal. At the theater, 
watching the cherry dance, as we were, sat a very pretty 
girl whom the guide pointed out to us. She was accom- 



226 All the Way 'Round 

panied by a Japanese man and liis legal \vife and chil- 
dren, and the man had just announced that the following 
week he would take this beautiful creature for his con- 
cubine. The terrible question of the contempt in which 
the East holds its women was so constantly brought to 
mind, that I am quite sure if we had not felt so strongly 
upon the subject the constant flaunting of the thing in our 
faces would have dulled us. To see a man going about 
openly with these women, right in the presence of his 
wife and children! The idea of man being faithful to 
one woman is a thing a Japanese man cannot understand. 
Observing our 'ricksha boys in hot discussion one morn- 
ing, I asked Mr. Nishi what it was all about. He was 
very much embarrassed and only after much persuasion 
could I get him to tell me. No amount of denial from 
him could convince these men that my husband's sister, 
Mrs. — , of Chicago, who had joined us in China and 
was now traveling with us, was not his legal wife, while 
I, if you please, was the concubine ! 

We learned at Kioto that at last the m.uch talked of 
war was on in earnest in China. The wounded were 
being carried into Peking, which was shut off from the 
world because of the tearing up of the railroad tracks 
by the warring factions. Our friend, Mr. A — , of the 
Legation, started for Washing-ton, we were told, only to 
be obliged to turn back. We had no direct communica- 
tion with friends and could rely only upon the newspaper 




A Buddhist temple, Kioto 




An entrance to a Buddhist temple, Kioto 




The most venerated temple is the Kiyomizu-dera 




A garden crossing, Kioto 



In the Little People's Country 227 



reports. But we really were on the last train but one out 

of Peking, and felt that we were in luck to have gotten 

out when we did, even though we did endure such horror 

in doing so. 

The Typical Japanese City 

Kioto is by far the most interesting city we saw in 
Japan. It is called the Rome of the country. Its people 
are the most thoroughly Japanese of any that we saw. 
Its temples are superb and there is refinement and art 
on all sides. As a city it is absorbingly charming. It 
loves its art and its artists, and fashions in art are said 
to originate here. The imperial palaces, and the Bud- 
dhist temples are of the very highest type, while the 
metal work, ceramics, fans, dolls, silks, and other stuffs 
seem finer here than elsewhere. The streets are clean 
and regular. We reveled in its bazaar. Unlike many 
Japanese cities, Kioto has lovely suburbs. The imperial 
palaces are superb, some of the doors costing as much 
as a hundred and sixty thousand gold dollars each. They 
are magnificently carved. And the city has a regular 
treasure house of lacquer work, brasses, bronzes, and 
fine old brocades. 

The most venerated temple here is a Buddhist one 
called Kiyomizu-dera. It is sacred to the goddess Kwan- 
non, goddess of mercy. The view from the hilltop is worth 
going miles to see. Two big bronze lions guard the 
entrance. In the main building innumerable gods and 



228 All the Wa3^ 'Round 

goddesses guard the eleven-faced, thousand-handed 
Kwannon (concealed in the central reliquary), shown 
only once in thirty-three years. The treasures in the 
museums and the imperial palaces are priceless — 
swords, embroideries, kakemonos, iruikimonos, relics of 
celebrated men. There are also many illuminated screens 
and manuscripts, wonderfully wrought, and a great deal 
of old armor and weapons. But above all things else, we 
thought the gold lacquer work of Kioto the loveliest. It 
is indescribably beautiful. One cannot conceive of its 
beauty by merely seeing a piece of it here and there. He 
must see it in Kioto. 

Suspicious, of Friend Husband 

The trip to Amano-Hashidate, one of the three show 
places of Japan, was made by my husband alone. For 
the first and only time during all our journey I gave out 
physically, and though not really sick I was afraid of 
that long, dusty trip on the train. Our recent outcoming 
from China had upset me to the point of fatigue. So I 
decided to rest quietly in lovely Kioto until his return. 
I have wished, however, that I had made the effort and 
accompanied him, for ever since he came back he has 
made my life miserable by asserting and reasserting that 
it is the most beautiful spot in all Japan. He dwells at 
length and with much emphasis upon a most curious effect 
which is obtained by stooping and looking backwards at 



In the Little People's Country 229 

the strip of land. Well — I shall go back to Japan if for 

no other purpose than to look at Amano-Hashidate. I 

shall never be happy till I test the truth of his words. 

The castle of the former Shogun now belongs to the 

Crown Prince. But it is controlled by the government. 

It contains superb Kano screens and splendidly carved 

peacocks by Hidara-Jingoro. The sweet-toned Chinese 

gongs which one hears everywhere are especially pleasing 

here. They are lovely in tone and it is a delight to hear 

them. 

At Nara and Mount Koyo 

To beautiful Nara we went, famous for its temples 
and its Buddhas, the description of which I leave to the 
guide books. Almost everybody knows of the huge sit- 
ting Buddha here, eleven hundred years old, black, fifty- 
six feet high, two immense gold Buddhas on either side 
and eighteen or twenty other and smaller ones surround- 
ing him. He sits on a lotus leaf, is made of bronze, but 
has thousands of dollars' worth of gold in his admixture. 
There is here, also, a five-story Pagoda with a wonderful- 
toned bell. It stands under a pine tree and fills anyone 
with wonder who goes to see it. 

We spent many days here, enjoying the parks, the 
gardens and sacred animals, and lingered for hours be- 
fore the Daibutsuden in the Kasuga-jinga temple, 
founded in 768 A. D. But we feel that the greatest trip 
we had in Japan was made from Nara. This was to 



230 All the Way 'Eound 

Mount Koyo, where we spent the night in one of those 
Koyasan monasteries. Not one tourist in a thousand 
has this interesting experience, and we owe the pleasure 
and wonders of the journey there to our guide, Mr. Nishi. 
He insisted on our taking this arduous trip. So many 
changes of motors, 'rickshas, railroad trains must be made, 
and so intolerable is the stench of many of the spots 
which we were compelled to pass. These things, of 
course, deter the ordinary tourist from attempting such 
experiences. 

But in spite of all these drawbacks, how glad I am 
that we went. This monastery houses one of the most 
ancient religious orders, a strange aggregation of celibate 
monks. For many years it was a place of refuge for 
political prisoners of high rank, and for centuries women 
were not permitted to come within shouting distance, 
even, of its sacred precincts. Koyasan is now a sort 
of miracle-working place. By the faithful it is endowed 
with a sanctity more profound, perhaps, than any other 
Buddhist community in the empire. Thousands of pil- 
grims (of both sexes now) make the ascent annually and 
the little town consists entirely of temples, monasteries, 
and a few shops which cater to the wants of the tourists. 
In addition to fruit and food necessities these little shops 
sell rosaries, images of saints, etc. The priests sell in- 
dulgences against sickness (especially the smallpox) and 
the devil ! They derive one of the largest incomes from 



n^ 




A curious effect is obtained by stooping and looking backwards 




Aniano-Hashidate, the most beautiful spot in Japan 




ffi 



^, 



In the Little People's Country 231 

the sale of a little sand from one of the sacred mountains. 
After the priest has consecrated it, it is supposed to have 
the power to make a corpse flexible. A little of it sprin- 
kled upon the dead body, they believe, will keep it from 
getting stiff. To see so many of these poor pilgrims pay- 
ing out their hard-earned savings for these special indul- 
gences, and so firmly believing in them, was to me very 

pathetic. 

A Marvelous Ascent 

The steep ascent to the monastery is a thing long to be 
remembered. First, we took the train which later we 
left for the motor, abandoning the latter for the 'ricksha 
in the end. We climbed through splendid forests of 
cryptomerias, bamboos, cedars, giant ferns, and a per- 
fect tangle of semi-tropical vegetation. Beautiful wild 
wisteria climbs to the top of the highest trees. It flaunts 
its purple beauty everywhere, and on the lower bushes 
crimson berries bloom together with pink and yellow 
flowers, the whole making a color scheme of ravishing 
beauty. We were constantly passing the pilgrims, climb- 
ing at a fair pace. The lame and the blind, of course, 
had to be helped, sometimes carried. Children plodded 
along beside their mothers, many of whom carried a baby 
in their arms. I never saw a man carrying a child. Still, 
all were good-natured and seemingly happy. Cheerful- 
ness is a characteristic of the Japanese. With the Japan- 
ese love of color in their wearing apparel, the sight of 



232 All the Way 'Round 

these pedestrian pilgrims was wonderfully attractive. 
The women wore their brilliant kimonos, every color of 
the rainbow. Those of the men were scarcely less radiant. 
They made a picture which was unforgettable. 

To reach the top one must ascend nearly three thou- 
sand feet. The glory and the wonder of that climb ! Up 
to about forty years ago no woman could go beyond the 
Black Buddha, which is some miles from the monastery. 
That this rule has been done away with was evidenced 
by the thousands of women whom we saw on their way 
there. The cemeteries adjoining the temples contain the 
most beautiful trees one can imagine. They resemble 
our sequoias. Beneath these glorious trees lie all the 
carved monuments of the dead. Innumerable stone lan- 
terns are here in this Koyasan necropolis and thousands 
of them are lighted at their festivals. A red mark on 
any of the tombs indicates that husband or wife is still 
living but will eventually lie here also. A large line of 
carved gods mark the approach to the temple where the 
everlasting fire, lighted eleven hundred years ago, still 
burns. We saw this fire. What did we not see in this 
beautiful place? Carvings, embroideries, screens, 
bronzes — it seemed as if all the wealth of Japan must 
be gathered here to charm the eye. There is such a 
wealth of material in this little town of Koyo that I longed 
to linger. If the gods are willing, I shall certainly go 
back. 



In the Little People's Country 233 

Sleeping Behind Thin Screens 
The old monastery in which we slept was charming. 
At eight o'clock our beds were made, on the floor, it is 
true, but made comfortable by soft, heavy coverlets. Our 
rooms were lovely, with sweet-smelling matting and slid- 
ing screens painted by the great Kano himself. We 
looked out upon a charming garden where twin lakes, 
small bridges, tiny walks, and pretty statues, trees, and 
flowers met our eyes. A full moon added enchantment. 
I was loath to go to bed, not wishing to miss a moment 
of it. But we were to be called at five in the morning 
for the ceremonies which take place at that hour. We 
were served a light supper of rice and bacon, tea and 
toast. It was delicious and we retired to enjoy (as we 
supposed) a good sleep. But, alas ! Not much sleep for 
us. The monastery was filled with rich Japanese who 
talked and prayed all night. With only a paper screen 
between us, sleep was next to impossible. Moreover, I 
am quite sure that several times during the night our 
screens were moved, whether by accident or design, I 
cannot say. I am sure that there were times during the 
night when we were all in one large room together. There 
is no privacy in Japan. Several rooms can easily be made 
one by merely removing the screens. 

However, there are times when one is so weary that 
he could sleep on a battlefield. We were all sound asleep 
when they came to arouse us next morning. It was a 



234 All the Way 'Round 

bitterly cold day, and it was a memorable sight to see 
that great gathering kneeling and kowtowing before the 
Holy of Holies at that early hour. Priests, in superb 
robes, were present, and one, the head of the monastery, 
sat enthroned in the center of the room, a sort of railing 
protecting him from the faithful, who otherwise might 
have crowded against him. The faithful, by the way, 
were squatting or kneeling in various positions of hum- 
bleness while the priests chanted the prayers and the 
acolytes burned incense. At intervals the deep tones of 
a gong were heard. Every now and then the priest would 
turn, face the pilgrims and call out a name. The person 
thus called would approach, bow and receive some token 
from his hand, indicative of the fact that said pilgrim 
had paid down a sum of money for the honor of thus 
being called publicly. He thus proclaimed that he was 
making offerings for and to his ancestors. 

"Tea Money" for the Priests 

Before the altar small brass tablets are placed for a 
certain length of time, depending, of course, upon the 
size of the offering, and while they are there all may 
read that the person mentioned has paid money to the 
priests for their prayers. It certainly was a remarkable 
and interesting performance. I tucked my feet under 
me and sat like the Buddhists till the service was over. 

There is no charge asked by the monastery for its 




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In the Little People's Countiy 235 

hospitality, but one is supposed to give "tea money." 
We gave all we could afford, and it amounted to several 
times the amount of the steepest hotel bill we had ever 
had in any country. But I imagine that it was a mere 
pittance to those spoiled priests. I was told that many 
of the rich Japanese often give five thousand dollars in 
gold for a single night's lodging. It seemed unbelievable, 
but I found that it w^as true. Every Japanese tries once 
in his life to go to Koyo, and it is a sacred obligation to 
give all that his purse can afford for the continuance of 
the monastery. Even the poor give largely. 

A contrast to Koyosan were the Ise Shrines at Ya- 
mada. Here the worship is Shinto. A woman is greatest 
of all the gods and is therefore honored most. She is 
the Sun Goddess, and, like the proverbial woman, they 
have invested her with many of the foibles of her sex. 
For instance, they say she is easily frightened. So they 
take great pains never to alarm her. She must be always 
carefully attended and guarded that she may not be need- 
lessly alarmed. One day a leak sprung in the temple 
and they were afraid she might get wet. So they put 
up a temporary temple to house her while her own was 
being repaired. They are great on building new tem- 
ples. Any old excuse will start them off building one. It 
is a religious rite and insures salvation to him who 
builds it. 

Instead of repairing the old temple, therefore, it was 



236 All the Way 'Round 

decided to build a new one. This would take time, and 
meanwhile the goddess must be housed in a temporary 
temple. When they were ready to remove her they made 
the most elaborate preparations. For days before the 
great procession took place, a priest, in robes almost 
royal, squatted on a mat on the ground before the temple, 
played soft music to soothe and amuse the goddess, told 
her every few moments not to get nervous, not to be 
alarmed, that when the time came to remove her every 
precaution would be taken that she should not be uncom- 
fortable in her new home. This music and these prayers 
are practically continuous, each priest being relieved in 
turn by another, and thus the goddess is coached on the 
coming removal. 

Early Removal of the Goddess 

We saw the performance. Of course, all the faithful 
gather also to watch. We had to look over a fence, as no 
one but the emperor and the empress are permitted 
within the enclosure of the temple. The procession was 
to take place at midnight, and the goddess was to be 
removed, carried to the other temple, the way to which 
had been covered mth a wooden roof. It was several 
blocks long, gaily decorated with flags and banners. 
Thousands of people had gathered to witness the cere- 
monies and we intended to be among the number. When 
we learned, however, that in order to see it we should 



In the Little Peo]3le's Country 237 

have to take our place in the line at five o'clock and stand 
until midnight we decided that we could not do it. 

But to see the pilgrims, to watch the supposedly edu- 
cated priests feeding them with superstitious twaddle, 
moves one either to mirth or to sadness, according to 
one's temperament. The ceremony of removing the god- 
dess must always be held at night, and a representative 
of the emperor (a member of his family), must always 
be present. "We caught a glimpse of this representative. 
He was at our hotel. No one else except the Shinto 
priests officiate in the procession. A Buddhist priest 
never enters this temple. But every Japanese, so our 
guide told us, whether Christian or Buddhist, must come 
once to the Ise Shrines. The government requires this, 
and it has created much feeling among the Christian 
Japanese, who object to it strongly. The emperor has 
here a private forest where the timber is grown for the 
building of temples. In Japan these temples are renewed, 
or rather a new one is built, every twenty years. 

Fujiyama Behind Clouds 

We went to Nagoya, from which place we hoped to 
see beautiful Fujiyama. We climbed five long flights of 
steps to the arsenal, but Her Majesty's face was hidden in 
clouds. She would not smile upon us. So we amused 
ourselves watching the maneuvers of the soldiers in the 
court, which were very pretty and interesting. Just below 



238 All the Way 'Eoiuid 

my window at the hotel I could look into a house, and 
I was appalled at the filthy coverings of the beds, them- 
selves quite as dirty, on the floor. The better class of 
Japanese are very clean. But the poorer class live like 
animals. The poor babies, lying around in that terrible 
filth! The odors from the houses — so unbearable that 
I had to close my window. And yet — just before I did 
so I saw one of these poor, overworked mothers leaning 
over her babies, tucking them into the old rags and talk- 
ing caressingly to them. Poor and miserable she may 
have been, but she had in her heart that divine mother- 
love which is the same the world over. My o^vn yearned 
over her and her innocent, if untidy, children. 

There are lovely grounds around the castle in Nagoya. 
It contains some beautiful screens, and on top of the 
building are two gold dolphins, really very gorgeous and 
placed there for an unique purpose. They are said to 
contain over three hundred thousand dollars' worth of 
gold, and are kept in public view to let the people know 
that should the imperial family ever need money it can 
be obtained here at a moment's notice. A queer sort of 
bank account, but very pretty ! Ever since the Sun God- 
dess — their greatest deity — produced the first emperor 
from her left eye the latter has been divine, and on this 
beautiful temple where he chooses to put part of his wealth 
to melt down into spending gold if necessary, the people 
would never commit the sacrilege of theft. They would 



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Yokushi Bell Tower. Xara 



In the Little People's Country 239 

fear the divine wrath and they are too superstitious to 
incur it. So the bank is absolutely safe. It cannot fail. 
Nagoya is certainly a busy spot. No matter at what time 
we attempted to enter the shopping district, we never 
failed to find it packed and jammed, so that it was almost 
impossible to shop. And this is a terrible state of affairs 
in Japan where everything is so alluring. 

How the Cormorants Fish 

From Nagoya we went to Gifu to see the cormorants 
fish. Fishing with these birds had been practiced in China 
for many years before the Japanese took it up. But 
here it has been done since about the eighth century. We 
had a wonderful time, for on that same evening some 
young Japanese bloods had chosen to take out some 
Geisha girls in boats for a frolic. Their little boats, gaily 
lighted with lanterns and decorated with flags, were all 
about us, and their tinkling guitars made pretty music 
across the water. These lovely — if not highly moral — 
young women were picturesque and attractive to a degree. 

Floating down the river amid all this splendor, we 
waited the hour of midnight and the approach of the 
fishing boats. The swift current and rapids in the river 
are such that at a certain point all the boats tie up to a 
sort of rocky island. Here we waited, sometimes walking 
about the stony island and sometimes lying at full length 
in our own boats chatting. The night was chilly. We 



240 All the Way 'Roirnd 

had heavy steamer rugs about us. Our little craft was 
as gaily decorated as the others, though we lacked the 
music. We sat on the floor of the boat to eat our suppers. 
Suddenly a signal that the boats were approaching 
thrilled us. We got up at once. It was a great sight to 
see them coming with their blazing pitch-pine fires in 
front of each vessel. These flaming lights attract the fish, 
as the lamp does the moth, and the great birds, with rings 
about their necks to prevent their swallowing the fish, 
dart down and gather in the dazed swimmers as they 
crowd toward the light. Each bird has a cord about its 
body, and by means of the cord and the ring the head 
man manipulates the fishing. Each bird catches from 
one to two hundred fish in an hour, according to the length 
of his training. When the pouch is full and the neck 
terribly distended with the fish, the birds stop diving and 
float helplessly about in the water. Then the master 
hauls him into the boat, passes his hand swiftly over the 
pouch. The bird disgorges and flops down into the water 
to begin again. The sight was as queer as it was inter- 
esting. Though it was long after midnight and frosty, 
we were sorry when it was over. 



CHAPTER XIX 

THE NATURE-LOVING JAPANESE; BUDDHISM AND SHINTOISM ; 
GIFU; YOKOHAMA 

SO ENCHANTED were we with our surroundings that 
I am sure not one of us remembered that Gifu is the 
center of many earthquakes. On October 28, 1891, one 
occurred which killed seven thousand and injured seven- 
teen thousand people. Twenty thousand buildings, many 
bridges, arches, and miles of railroad track were de- 
stroyed. In June of 1896 a tidal wave and earthquake 
combined killed thirty thousand more. But I am happy 
to record that while we were there Nature behaved herself 
very well, and being absorbed in the loveliness about us 
we forgot all these unpleasant things. 

Flights of the Fireflies 
The beautiful river with its high surrounding moun- 
tains is very impressive. When we expressed our appre- 
ciation of the beauty of the boat-covered river, the music 
and merriment, our guide assured us that although it was 
attractive nothing could equal in beauty the firefly season 
in Japan. At this time everybody comes down to see 
these marvelous little insects, carrying their bright lan- 
terns through the mountains. Millions of them, like 
diminutive night watchmen, flit through and gleam among 
the mountains in the early spring, and so beautiful and 

241 



242 All the Way 'Round 

unusual is the sight that the whole of Japan, practically, 
takes a vacation to see them. Parties are formed nightly 
to come to Gifu and the neighboring spots where these 
lovely fireflies roam, and spend the long evenings just 
enjoying the gorgeous sight. The winding stream be- 
tween the hills, the little sparklers wheeling and circling 
in the darkness, the dancing and singing on scores of 
illuminated boats — life here appears so joyous! In 
reality — is it so? I was told that when the fireflies have 
assembled in force, myriads of them dart simultaneously 
from either bank, meet and cling together above the water. 
They look like a great luminous cloud, or a ball of fire. 
Sometimes the cloud scatters, sometimes the ball falls 
into the river. The fallen fireflies drift away with the 
current, only to be followed instantly by another glitter- 
ing swarm. Often people stay on the boats all night to 
watch this curious and beautiful phenomenon. 

Appreciation of Nature 

With all their reputation for astuteness and diplo- 
macy (undoubtedly deserved), the Japanese are great 
nature-lovers, and in many ways they are still just simple- 
minded children. All their great festivals, seemingly, are 
based upon beautiful themes or legends — the cherry- 
blossom, the chrysanthemum, the autumn leaf, the firefly. 
Why are we Americans so indifferent to such really ex- 
quisite things? True, we do play at enjoying them. 




'Ricksha teams. Koyasan 




Pilarims to Kcn-asan monasteries 




Near the entrance to Kovasan 




Kondo or Golden Hall, Kovasan 



Nature-Loving Japanese; Buddhism 243 

Individually, we go about gathering the lovely-tinted 
autumn leaves and talk about the feathered songsters of 
the spring. But who would ever think of inaugurating 
days of festivity to celebrate the coming of the first lark 
in the spring? Or of stopping work to go to the woods 
and gather flowers ? Yet this is common in Japan. It is 
done all the time. As we were on our way home, riding 
through the low, bottom lands of the river approaching 
Kansas City, we thought of Gifu. Never had we seen 
so many and such large fireflies. For over two hours 
we watched them, constantly increasing in numbers until 
when at last we got close to the river, literally swarms 
of them were before us. I remembered Gifu and thought 
of the wisdom of the Japanese, w^ho had made a festival 
of the return of the pretty creatures. I could not help 
regretting that in our own splendid country we are so 
indifferent to the beautiful in nature and so prosaic when 
it comes to indulging in sentiment. 

As I look back over my stay in Japan I recall so many 
of their customs which are queer but interesting. For 
instance, their mamier of saying good-bye is unique. In- 
stead of shaking your hand they shake their own, bowing 
many times, sometimes making the old-fashioned curtsey. 
Certainly customs are funny. I presume ours are quite 
as queer to them. In Nippon the three most sacred things 
are the mirror in Yamada, the jewel which is in Tokyo, 
and the sword which is in Nagoya. None of these is 



244 All the Way 'Round 

ever looked upon by human eyes, for should they be 
uncovered disaster would overtake the royal family. 
These sacred relics are wrapped in the costliest and most 
gorgeous of embroideries, and when the embroidery be- 
gins to wear out they renew it, carefully mending it in 
such way that the sacred objects covered by it are never 
exposed. 

The religion of Japan is of two kinds — Buddhism 
and Shintoism. The latter is the old national religion — 
the worship of the sun and the sun goddess, the originator 
and creator of all things. This worship includes thou- 
sands of gods, monsters of the imagination, inhabitants 
of horrible caves and high mountains, and, of course, 
every man's ancestors. All men's ancestors are deified, 
because after death one's ancestors become his gods. The 
Shoguns are now worshipped as gods. As soon as a ruler 
died a splendid monument was erected to him and every- 
body went to his tomb to worship, believing that his soul 
still lived in the inner shrine of the tomb. The greater 
the ruler the finer the temple. The richest temples in the 
empire are at Nikko — the tombs of lyeyasu and lyemitsu. 
These were the founders of the family of the Shoguns 
two hundred or more years ago. 

Fujiyama in Full View 

On our way to visit these temples we decided to go 
to Yokohama. We made the trip from there — a beau- 



Nature-Loving Japanese; Buddhism 245 

tiful ride through the country of the famous Inland Sea. 
Wonderful were the views of the Pacific and its shore 
line. Paddy-fields and farms under rich cultivation, glo- 
rious vistas of mountains and valleys lay all about us, 
and here at last we caught a glimpse of Fujiyama, the 
world-famous sacred mountain of Japan. And this time 
it was a long and beautiful view, for all afternoon that 
white-crowned, perfectly-shaped cone was in sight. For 
weeks afterward it continued to be distinctly visible, even 
after we had departed for home. We had seen it so often 
in pictures that when it suddenly burst upon our view the 
sight thrilled us to the tips of our toes. We looked back 
across the years, recalling Mount Shasta, that kingly peak 
of snow in California, and El Misti, overtopping Are- 
quipa in Peru. We had seen and loved these mountains. 
We had watched them at all times — in the glowing dawn, 
under the golden sun of noontide, at twilight and beneath 
the glitter of stars. Now as we looked at Fujiyama we 
felt that the sacred mountain of Japan would forever 
rank in our minds with the other two. 

I observed one peculiar thing about Japan's moun- 
tain, however. The snow does not seem to be packed 
down upon it as is the case with most snow-crowned 
peaks. It lies soft and white, like a mantle which has 
slipped down the sides as if it had been blown just a bit. 
The cone and some feet below it are quite white. But 
the side is prettily thinned and there are some green spots 



246 All the Way 'Round 

showing. Fujiyama is lovely, perfectly level, just as all 
the pictures we see represent it. 

Japan's Principal Cities 

Japan has five great cities — Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, 
Nagoya, and Yokohama. We visited them all and found 
each interesting in the highest degree. The large hotel 
had burned in Tokyo, and the new one in progress of 
erection under the charge of a great architect was far 
from complete. But we made our headquarters in Tokyo 
and took our trips from there. The Empress and the 
Prince Imperial live here. As all the world knows, the 
Emperor has been very ill for years and takes no part 
in the government. His malady is mental, and it is piti- 
ful, for physically he is young and vigorous, considerably 
under fifty, I was told. 

The present ambassador and his wife, Hon. and Mrs. 
Charles B. Warren, are valued friends of ours, and need- 
less to say added much to the pleasure of our stay in 
Tokyo. We were at the Embassy many times, both for- 
mally and informally. It was with a feeling of distinct 
pride that we heard his administration so highly spoken 
of throughout Japan, and Mrs. Warren, who speaks 
French weU, is gracious and charming of manner and 
has contributed largely to their popularity. Mr. Warren 
is a good mixer as well as a competent man, and together 
they have managed to make the Embassy brilliant. It is 




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Nature-Loving Japanese; Buddhism 247 

a spot noted for its lavish hospitaUty. 

At one of the formal dinners we attended there we 
met many distinguished Japanese, Count Inouye, Grand 
Master of Ceremonies to the Emperor ; the Marchioness, 
his wife; Madame Myeba, Lady-in- Waiting to the Em- 
press; Viscount Vaneke, Privy Counselor to the 
Emperor; Madame Yamanaka; also the Belgian Ambas- 
sador and some delightful Americans, among them our 
military attache and his wife. Col. and Mrs. Burnett. The 
latter is the poet laureate of Japan. She has written 
some exquisite poems of Old Japan, and the Japanese are 
devoted to her. They have honored her by making her 
poet laureate. Madame Yamanaka is the daughter of 
Count Chinda, who took the Prince Imperial to Europe. 

■ The Women of Japan 

The Japanese ladies were delightful. They wore 
their ceremonial robes, spoke charming English, French, 
and other languages. They were splendidly educated 
women, cultured, traveled, quite up-to-date on all sub- 
jects of conversation. The Japanese women are far 
ahead of the other women of the Orient. Such as I met 
at the Embassy were apparently on equal footing with 
their lords and masters, acting just as the English and 
European women did, but it was whispered to me that 
this was so only when they were in company with the 
latter. In their own homes when Europeans or Ameri- 



248 All the Way 'Eound 

cans are present they sit at table and are charming host- 
esses. But alone in their own family they observe all 
the rules of Old Japan. Be all this as it may, we cer- 
tainly found them delightful companions at the Embassy 
dinner. The Japanese men were in the regulation even- 
ing dress of the European, and they were cultivated men 
of the world. But in appearance the Japanese man does 
not please the American or European. He is too small 
of stature and too foppish of appearance. But the Jap- 
anese woman, lithe, graceful of figure, with well-turned, 
chiseled features and massed crown of glossy black hair, 
always perfectly coiffured, is "a thing of beauty and a 
joy forever." 

The hair of the Japanese woman, by the way, makes a 
story of itself. It is always very black and has a sort of 
metallic luster. It is kept soft by means of many wash- 
ings and much ointment. Camellia oil, I am told, is the 
favorite tonic, but they also add a gnimmy mixture which 
builds the hair up high and stiff into that precise coiffure 
which one sees always on the head of the Japanese 
women. As is the case in China, there is a professional 
hairdresser who goes from house to house. But the bet- 
ter class of Japanese ladies dislike him because he is the 
gossip and scandalmonger of the empire. But the lower 
classes always employ him and even the poorest woman, 
it seems, can scrape up enough money to have her hair 
dressed by the professional barber when he comes along. 



Nature-Loving Japanese; Buddhism 249 

The Japanese coiffure is most elaborate and strange. 
Yet none can say that it is not attractive. Their really 
beautiful complexions are often marred by too much 
white powder. They fairly paint their faces with it till 
they resemble wiiite masks. There is nothing pretty 
about this, of course. But the young girls use paint and 
powder lightly and as a rule are lovely. The Japanese 
women are devoted mothers, but they nurse their babies 
too long. It is no uncommon sight to see a child of four 
running back to its mother for a feeding. 

A Fly in the Ointment 

Tranquil and serene as is the general atmosphere of 
Japan, gentle and courteous as are its delightful little 
people, there is the usual friction beneath the surface of 
life, as elsewhere. Their marriage system is the bugbear, 
although, to tell the truth, it seems not to bother them 
as much as one w^ould think it might. The man never 
selects his own wife (he does pick out his own concubine), 
and after she is married the Japanese bride is absolutely 
subservient to her husband's mother. With her it is 
never a love match. How could she be happy, especially, 
as is now so often the case, when she has had an Euro- 
pean education? This is now a problem confronting the 
Japanese, just as it has confronted the Chinese, the 
American Indian, and others. 

How can an Indian who is a graduate of Yale or 



250 All the Way 'Eound 

Harvard go back to the reservation and be again an 
Indian ? He can't. Yet this is the proviso when the gov- 
ernment gives him an education. Result? After they 
have returned to their people, all that school and college 
have taught them proves to be of no value to them there. 
Consequently in an incredibly short space of time one 
could never tell that they had had an education. They 
are once more just members of a tribe. So to the woman 
of Japan and China, capable and often brilliant, com- 
pelled to return and be married to a man steeped in the 
ancient customs of his country, narrow-minded and un- 
progressive, life holds much to be desired. Sometimes 
in Japan, but very seldom in China, one finds the excep- 
tion. Often while traveling we saw Japanese husbands 
who were quite attentive, helping the wife, carrying the 
children, etc. Welcome sight! 

In Yokohama we devoted our first day to visiting the 
great Daibutsu at Kamakura. This great bronze Buddha 
is one of the wonders of Japan and though not so large, 
it is more impressive than the one at Nara, owing, possi- 
bly, to the fact that it is in the open. The site is elevated 
and in the midst of splendid cryptomerias, and as one 
enters the gateway he reads this inscription : 

Stranger, ivhoever tJiou art and ivhatsoever thy 
creed, when thou enterest this sanctuary remember that 
thou treadest upon ground hallowed by the worship of 
ages! This is the temple of Buddha and the gate of the 
Eternal! Enter it, therefore, ivith reverence! 




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Nature-Loving Japanese; Buddhism 251 

The face of this giant Buddha, seated upon a lotus 
leaf, is the most beatific I have ever seen. The statue 
was cast in 1252 A. D., and is forty-nine feet high. Its 
eyes are of pure gokl. It was once in a building, de- 
stroyed by a tidal w^ave in 1494, and ever since the colossal 
statue has just sat under the blue sky. This is its chief 
charm. The serene majesty of this calm Hindu face with 
its half-closed eyes indicates that their belief in Nirvana 
means much to them. One would be indeed hardened 
who could look at this calm Buddha and not love it. The 
face is so profoundly meditative, the hands rest quietly 
in the lap, the thumbs touching each other. This statue 
is quite worthy of all the admiration it has elicited in all 
the years that the world has been traveling to see it. 

Glimpses of Tokyo 

There are other temples about the bronze Buddha. 
They overlook that beautiful sheet of water known as 
Mississippi Bay. These we saw and admired, but one 
surfeits mth constant description. I merely make men- 
tion of them. We had no time for charming Enoshima, 
that delightful beach resort near Tokyo. Besides, w^e 
wish to leave something to visit when we go again to 
this wonderful land. 

Tokyo is a perpetual welding of past and present, of 
old and new, of stagnation and progress. Palace and 
museum, Shiba Park, shop and theater, we visited each 



252 All the Way 'Eound 

in turn. One of the sights of the city is the tomb of the 
second Shogun. It is a superb thing, Korean lions, fabu- 
lous beasts and reptiles overhanging the arches, oriental 
colors, bewildering to the eye because of their vividness, 
gold splendor in profusion, huge columns — all these 
enter into its decorations. Fine lacquer work abounds. 
The priests ' apartments, the carvings by Hidara- Jingoro 
on the doors, wonderfully painted sliding screens by the 
gTeatest artist of Japan, all is overwhelming in its 

richness. 

Off to Picturesque Nikko 

It was from Yokohama that we made our journey to 
Nikko, to reach which one travels through what is con- 
sidered Japan's most picturesque and attractive scenery. 
Nikko rests right in the heart of the mountains. Its 
stormy little river (such a rushing, angry, roaring little 
torrent) cuts right across the town. It is never cahn 
and made us think of the Rimac, in Peru. This little 
stream at Nikko cascades everywhere and not infre- 
quently, in some man's back yard, is to be seen the pret- 
tiest tiny waterfall. Sometimes this tumbling bit of foam 
is only a couple of yards wide. But it is none the less 
lovely. When we went to Nikko it had been raining a 
good deal, but the next day after our arrival, as the 
weather was superb, we took advantage of it to see 
Chuzenjhi, the elevated lake lying five thousancj feet 
above the level of the sea and said to be five hundred 



Nature-Loviug Japanese; Buddhism 253 

and sixty feet deep. It was well that we went, for those 
who waited had to see it in the rain. Many walk to the 
height, some use 'rickshas, but one is well repaid, no 
matter what the manner of his going. On the day we 
went the mountains were clear, green, and fresh-looking. 
Not a cloud obscured the view until just after we re- 
turned. Then the mist began to soften everything and 
the skies prepared for the tremendous downpour that 
followed on the next day. There w^as a charming hotel 
right on the edge of the lake, where they gave us a good 
luncheon, all the more enjoyable because of the beauty 
of the view. 

The outlet of Chuzenjhi is Kegon Falls. They drop 
with a tremendous roar tw^o hundred and fifty feet and 
send up enormous quantities of spray. On either side of 
it are smaller waterfalls with beautiful rainbow tints 
hovering about them. We observed here a curious phe- 
nomenon. If one watches the center of this bridal veil 
of water the rocks on either side seem to be receding, the 
whole bulky mountain moving slowly backward. It was 
most curious. We had never before noticed such a thing 
in any other waterfall. A^Hiat was it? A sort of rela- 
tivity! I wonder. Like our own Niagara, Kegon Falls 
is a favorite spot for suicides. It is now closely guarded 
because of the seeming desire of so many to die within 
its beauteous waters. 

The chill of Nikko ! It was May, but it seemed like 



254 All the Wa}^ 'Round 

December. Although the rain came down in torrents 
next day, we ventured forth with umbrellas and rain- 
coats and did not suffer. At the first glimpse of the tem- 
ples we forgot the cold and the rain. From the red- 
lacquered bridge to the tomb of the Shogun we had one 
thrill after another. The old hackneyed expression, " See 
Nikko before you say Kekko!" (See Nikko before you 
say splendid!) was w^ell said. Nothing could be more 
satisfying. Many of the Shinto shrines were quite ornate 
because they once had been Buddhist shrines and the com- 
bination still remains. The wdse priests of the simpler 
Shinto temples decided when they took the Buddhist 
temples to keep the glorious things they found in them. 
Every one knows, of course, that the Emperor and Em- 
press were always Shinto worshipers. They are them- 
selves regarded as divine, therefore higher than Buddha. 
So, of course, they could not accept Buddliism for their 
religion. Occasionally some member of the imperial 
family is a backslider and becomes a Buddhist. But 
neither the Emperor nor Empress could. To do so would 
be to acknowledge that they are not divine. This, nat- 
urally, they would not concede. 



CHAPTER XX 

BEAUTIFUL NIKKO ; JAPANESE RED CROSS; JU-JITSU ; HOME- 
WARD BOUND 

NATURE has been kind to Nikko. She is elaborately 
and superbly set. Even without her temples she 
would be one of the show places of her country. Add, 
therefore, to her natural beauties the glories of her art, 
her wonderful places of worship, with their carved 
screens, gold canopies, lacquer, ornamental drums, kake- 
monos, makimonos — what does she lack? The Kanos 
in Nikko are unusually fine, and here on the outside of 
one of the buildings I was much interested to see the 
original of that familiar little group of the three wise 
monkeys whose attitudes express the excellent admoni- 
tion, "Speak no evil, see no evil, hear no evil!" The 
great left-handed sculptor, Hidara-Jingoro, has carved 
here the figures of some animals which have become 
famous — an elephant, a bull, and, last of all, the sleeping 
cat. The latter is cut upon the entrance or gate of 
lyeyasu's tomb. She sleeps eternally, right behind the 
Holy of Holies. Ornaments of brass, like huge plates, 
hang in the temples. Fine old brocades and silks, the 
carved phoenix, other birds, the pagodas, the bell tower, 
the twelve signs of the zodiac — all are grouped together 
in my mind whenever I attempt to revisualize Nikko. 

255 



256 All the Way 'Round 

Sweet Confusion of Memories 
All travelers to this country have heard of the Hun- 
dred Steps at Nikko. They lead up to the tomb of lyeyasu. 
We climbed them, wearily I must admit, and as we were 
plodding along an elderly man passed us lightly. He 
smiled and bowed and we commented upon his agility. 
The Hall of the Three Buddhas, the sweet tones of the 
bronze bell which calls the hours between dawn and dusk, 
the abbots' garden, the museum, with the cherished rel- 
ics — all these are a conglomerate in my memory. Yet 
it is surely a pleasing conglomerate, even if indistinct it 
is unforgettable. The richness of the beauty of Nikko 
will always remain. The gold gods and goddesses, the 
panel pictures of the second of June processions, the 
bronze fountains, censers, lanterns, rock crystals, the six 
bronze bells of the museum, the squatting priests either 
counting money or watching pilgrims, the sing-song of 
other priests instructing the sightseers — these pictures, 
if jumbles, are indelible. 

Nikko must be seen to be known. It is impossible to 
describe her. The first and the third of the Shoguns are 
buried here and their tombs are well worth exploring. 
Before the shrines in the Shinto temples were many offer- 
ings made of gold leaf paper. We saw some exquisite 
things here, one of them being a carved cherry tree of 
brass, every blossom of which was perfect in detail. 
In the temples we saw some long, graceful grass, appar- 




A splendid cryptomcria grove, Nikko 



Beautiful Nikko; Homeward Bound 257 

cntly gold, with rice. On closer examination we found 
that it was bamboo gilded. But the effect in the temple 
was lovely. The entrance to the tomb of the third Sho- 
gun, grandson of the first, is most impressive. The 
superb gates of gold are world-renowned, and on either 
side is a large white panel carved in white flowers. When 
we had mounted the three long flights of steps necessary 
to reach it and had come upon the splendid cryptomeria 
grove in which the tombs and temples were, we thought 
that the view quite repaid us. But when we saw these 
matchless gates we were almost speechless. Accustomed 
as we were by this time to beautiful things they set for 
us a new standard of beauty. Nothing is quite so beau- 
tiful that some artist cannot exceed it in beauty. Thus it 
seemed to us as we stood there. The columns are un- 
usually graceful. The whole length of the building 
revealed only a line of loveliness. 

The Red Bridge and General Grant 

The sacred Red Bridge of Nikko is another of her 
treasures which the whole world knows. It is made of 
the finest lacquer and is perhaps the most striking feature 
of Nikko. Its graceful, sweeping arch spans the gorge 
over that leaping, foaming river. It shines lustrously, 
and no one except the Emperor and Empress are ever 
permitted to walk across its sacred span. The Japanese 
will never forget the courtesy of General Grant when he 



258 All the Way 'Round 

was making his tour of the world. Wishing to show the 
greatest honor possible to the great American General, 
they offered him the privilege of crossing the sacred 
bridge. With that innate sense of the fitness of things 
for which he was famous, the General declined, saying 
that their beautiful bridge was far too sacred to be pol- 
luted by his footsteps. A few months ago the young 
Prince of Wales had the good taste to follow his exam- 
ple. Knowing that General Grant had declined to accept 
this courtesy, he also declined it when offered. The 
bridge is adorned with black metal clamps and gilded 
washers and makes a fine bit of color against the green of 
the cryptomerias. Two monolithic Tom-shaped pillars of 
gray granite support it at either end. These Torii gates 
of Japan are certainly magnificent. One meets them 
everywhere he goes and cannot help admiring their 
curious form. 

Woman in Japdn 

There is an old saying that Japan had invented noth- 
ing, but has improved on everything that everybody else 
has invented. This is well illustrated daily and in many 
ways. Of course, all her best ideas — everything that she 
has, in fact, that is of value, her langTiage, her literature, 
her art — she got from China. But she has greatly im- 
proved and refined them all to such a degree that her 
ancient neisrhbor would scarcelv recognize them. The 



Beaiitifiil Nikko; Homeward Bound 259 

explanation is not difficult. China still adheres to her 
old beliefs, is extremely tenacious of them, in fact, and 
is slow to change. Japan, on the other hand, is eager 
to learn, favorable to every new idea she receives. For 
hundreds of years, just like China, she closed herself to 
foreign invasion and trade. But once admitted she made 
the foreigner teach her all that he knows. She then pro- 
ceeded to improve upon his ideas. Formerly most of her 
laws were based upon those of China. Now they are 
almost wholly European. 

In regard to Japanese art there is no doubt that their 
command of pencil and brush (a command which is uni- 
versally acknowledged) is the result of close study and 
frequent use of the difficult Chinese characters. The fin- 
est schools of painting in Japan are attributed to Chinese 
teaching. 

Although the status of woman in Japan is improving, 
there is still much to be desired. The passivity and prac- 
tical extinction of the wife is of course a proverb in all 
oriental countries. Even today the Japanese man, far 
in advance of the other orientals in enlightenment, still 
depends upon the Geisha girl for the pleasures of femi- 
nine society. These girls are taught accomplishments, 
the art of entertaining; and while the wife, who has the 
legal right to her husband's companionship, sits alone 
and lonely at home minding his babies, he seeks his diver- 
sion and entertainment elsewhere. It never occurs to 



260 All the Way 'Round 

him, seemingly, that his wife might entertain him occa- 
sionally if he would but give her the opportunity. This 
phase of Japanese life, however, is improving. Perhaps 
when they realize the disg-ust which it breeds in the 
people of the western world to see them dragging about 
their wives and children in company with their concu- 
bines, showing them equal attention, they may recognize 
what a handicap to real progress is any phase of life 
which has to them the appearance of openly flaunting 
immorality in their faces. 

The social evil will never be completely controlled, 
much less wiped out, in any country on the face of the 
earth until the day comes when each man and woman 
in it shall pray, individually and collectively, that a 
beneficent Providence shall create in them a clean heart. 
Vice, especially when commercialized, is like the barnacle 
which attaches itself to the hull of a ship. It is a disease 
which has fastened itself upon society at large. It can be 
cured only by means of spiritual regeneration. But the 
occidental world recognizes that it is wise to keep it out 
of sight, especially out of the sight of their growing 
families. There wiU be neither moral health nor progress 
in the Orient until the system of concubinage shall have 
been done away w4th. No really great men have been 
born in the Orient for hundreds of years. Why? The 
answer is easy. It takes an intelligent mother to rear a 
great man. So long as the impressionable years of youth 




Tomb of lyeyasu, Nikko Torii before the Tomb of lyeyasu, 

Nikko 



The superb gates are world-renowned 



Beautiful Nikko; Homeward Bound 261 

are spent in the companionship of a narrow-minded, igno- 
rant mother, just so long will there be a dearth of states- 
men and scholars, teachers and liberators in that country. 
That the Orient could but be made to realize all this! 
But so long as it is perfectly legitimate and honorable to 
have the concubine, so long as it adds to the social status 
of man to keep as many as he can afford to support, just 
that long will the life of the women of the oriental coun- 
tries continue to be a life of degradation. 

What Oriental Women Can Do 

To an American or European woman there could be 
no clearer battle-cry than that which has for its founda- 
tion the release of one's sisters from bondage. "We have 
fought it out along a great many lines, and what we have 
done the oriental woman can do also. Why do they not 
take up the banner and fight for public opinion as the 
women of other countries have done and are still doing? 
In Japan they are making the effort. The seed is being 
planted. There are whisperings in the air that women 
are really human beings and have certain inalienable 
rights and privileges. Propaganda is being scattered. 
The first meeting in the interest of suffrage in Japan was 
held while ive ivere there. True, it broke up in a riot. 
But so did similar meetings in England — in America. 
Some casualties were reported. But the seed was planted. 
Finally the case was taken into court, and after hot fight- 



262 All the Way 'Eound 

ing and bitter discussion, the women won. They are to 
be permitted (under certain restrictions) to speak in pub- 
lic and to plead their cause. Take heart, women of 
Japan! And, oh, you women of the other oriental coun- 
tries, take notice! 

I must speak here of the Red Cross Society of Japan. 
It is different from ours. "\Ve make charity, care of the 
sick, the wounded, and the needy our first and great 
objective. But the Japanese Red Cross Society, under 
direction of the Empress, makes patriotism its basis; 
loyalty to the Emperor, love for the soldiery of the coun- 
try. It does all that it can to make the latter comfort- 
able. The insignia of the Society is worn in public and it 
is considered a great honor to be able to wear it. It is 
the only society in the whole empire, so far as I am able 
to learn, which is perfectly organized. They often have 
lectures, with lantern slides illustrating the work of the 
Red Cross. Because of the insular position of the coun- 
try they keep many hospital ships for the patients, and 
they are models of comfort. The Imperial Princesses do 
much, and of course their example is one which the other 
women strive to emulate. Women are eligible to service 
in the Red Cross Society from the ages of seventeen to 
thirty. At fifty-five physicians are retired as incapable 
of further service. At forty-five the attendants and 
stretcher-bearers are retired. 

No work of the Red Cross of Japan has been more 



Beautiful Nikko; Homeward Bound 263 

valuable, however, than the stamping out of that terrible 
disease (prevalent in all rice-bearing countries) called 
beri-beri. It is most dangerous and has caused much 
havoc among the soldiery of India. It is caused by eating 
rice exclusively, especially cold rice. It causes, first, 
swelling, then paralysis in the legs and finally death from 
heart failure. Also, it is recurrent. If a man has had it 
once he is all the more likely to have it again. Dr. Heiser, 
of Manila, who has made a special study of it, is trying 
to induce the government to compel the natives to buy 
rice and eat it in the husk. This would do away with the 
bad effects of the white rice. The next best thing, he 
thinks, would be to cook with it a pound of millet. 

Athletics in Japan 

Japan is famed for its athletics, especially the much- 
talked-of ju-jitsu. This, seemingly, is a matter of skill, 
not strength, and one well versed and practiced in it is 
able to defeat the best boxer in the w^orld. The best known 
and most wonderful feat is the somersault-throwing of a 
man over the head. The important point of the training 
is therefore the development of wrist power, and this is 
the first thing taught and practiced. Nearly every fea- 
ture of this mysterious art, however, is defensive rather 
than offensive. In ordinary wrestling the man of greater 
strength is almost sure to win, although skill and agility 
are of much help to him. But in ju-jitsu the greatest 



264 All the Way 'Round 

stress is laid upon the study of the scientific principles by 
which one's opponent may be rendered powerless to 
resist attack. The watchword seems to be " Destroy your 
adversary's equilibrium ! " It was certainly interesting to 
watch these well-trained men, bouncing like rubber balls 
about the floor, and it was extremely difficult to tell which 
was winning. 

Of the two religions of Japan, Buddhist and Shinto, 
the latter is the favorite. Nirvana, the doctrine of 
dreamy renunciation, the annihilation of self, is not what 
the active, aggressive little Jap is looking for. He is a 
warrior at heart. He adores his sword. A man who 
dies for his Emperor is to him a great man, the man 
whose life and example he would follow. The Buddhist 
cult, therefore, which appeals so strongly to the Chinese, 
the Japanese refuses. The sturdy people of Japan are 
ambitious to see their country among the great nations 
of the world. It seemed to me that they have a founda- 
tion for their hope. We are prone to refer to our Japanese 
neighbors as the " little people, " forgetful that sometimes 
those who are small of stature are large of intellectuality. 
It is this latter characteristic which will place them in 

the front. 

Future of the Nation 

The sons of Japan are ambitious. They will create 
opportunities. They would make Nippon the seat of a 
mighty commercial empire. With Chosen and Manchuria 



Beautiful Nikko; Homeward Bound 265 

welded into commercial colonies — what may she not be 
able to accomplish? She is seeking a big tonnage on the 
sea. There is nothing visionary in this. She is already 
attaining it. Shipping is to be fostered by the nation 
until it becomes a great industry. Of late years hundreds 
of bright young Japanese have served apprenticeships in 
the great shipyards of America, England, Germany, and 
France, with the result that today there is no secret of 
naval architecture unknown to them. There are scores 
of naval architects in Japan, and they are the equals of 
those of any other country in the world. 

Also, the Japanese are athirst for knowledge along 
other lines. They acquire languages with the utmost 
ease. With their ambition and grit they are surely 
launched upon a brilliant career both in commerce and 
intellectual attainments. The future of Japan cannot be 
other than great. Her history and conduct during the 
last ten years have proved a surprise to the world. The 
Japanese have openly asserted themselves. They have 
taken their position among the nations. And this posi- 
tion they will hold. Though they impressed us as being 
a suspicious people — we constantly had the feeling of 
being watched — they seem a loyal people. The peep- 
holes cut squarely in every hotel room — ostensibly for 
ventilation — could well serve as a system of espionage, 
and I have not the slightest doubt that they do. It has 
been said that " East is East and West is West, and never 



266 All the Way 'Round 

the twain shall meet." But ambition carries men and 
nations far. Japan has sounded the clarion note of prog- 
ress. In sanitation she is, like the other countries of the 
Orient, far behind. But in education she is far ahead. 
She is wise in that she permits the counsel of her sober- 
minded statesmen to prevail, basing her actions on their 
wisdom and experience. By cooperation with America 
and other enlightened nations she will in the future 
acquire the light of true civilization. 

Yokohama is absolutely as much American, or Eng- 
lish, as any city of either of these countries. Certainly 
it does not seem Japanese. Its beautiful harbor spread 
out before our eyes from the windows of our rooms at 
the hotel. We looked at it lingeringly, somewhat long- 
ingly, magnificent by day, with hundreds of twinkling 
lights by night, and then, one Sunday afternoon we 
steamed out on one of our o"wn beautiful ships formerly 
known as The Empire State, but afterward rechristened 
in honor of President Wilson. AVliat a joy it was to travel 
in it ! Lovely cabins, private baths, lounging rooms, per- 
fect service, "\\niat more could one ask at sea! 

Beautiful, snow-crowned Fujiyama was in sight for 
hours after sailing. All those who were equal to it sat 
and watched the mountain out of sight, but I am sorry 
to say that in that notoriously rough and choppy sea sur- 
rounding Yokohoma, I, who am usually a perfect sailor, 
lay most forlornly for two hours in my steamer chair. 



Beautiful Nikko; Homeward Bound 267 

Nearly all the feminine persuasion were abed by this 
time, and many of the masculine element were mysteri- 
ously missing. But my vigorous husband never felt a 
qualm, and he declares to this day that our entire passage 
was a rather smooth one. Good gracious! Has he for- 
gotten, I wonder, the day after, when, fully recovered, I 
sat with him at the table enjoying a good meal and sud- 
denly a huge wave swept through the port-hole, drench- 
ing us to the skin and soaking all the food on the table? 
Anybody may call that a smooth passage who wants to. 
I call it distinctly rough! 

All the World Abroad 

However, though we had stiff winds all the way and 
the waves were huge, the captain reported each day " fine 
sailing!" Our boat was filled. Not a single vacant berth. 
Indeed, this had been our experience throughout our 
journey, with very rare exceptions. Wherever we went 
all steamers, trains and hotels were packed. It seemed 
as if all the world must be traveling. We had procured 
our cabin only a month before, although we had paid our 
passage money six months before that, at which time we 
were told that should one he vacant we might have it. 
Otherwise we should have to wait another month. It was 
only May, yet bookings were already being made for 1923. 

We had a delightful passenger list, some distinguished 
people, many of whom were coming home from Cliina for 



268 All the Way 'Round 

a vacation. Among the latter were Mr. and Mrs. S — , 
of Ann Arbor, charming people. Mr. S — had been head 
of the consortium in Peking. They had done their work 
well, for everywhere we had heard of it and of them. 

The "Child of the Wind " 

American missionaries, Catholic and Protestant, were 
aboard, and among the latter were a couple who had been 
doing missionary work in China, in the mountains, for a 
number of years. They had two children, a boy and a 
girl, and it was the girl who attracted me. She was about 
twelve years old, had been born and lived ever since in 
China. She was extremely pretty, but it was with an 
unearthly sort of beauty. She had deep blue eyes, amber 
colored hair and skin as white as milk. She was a curious 
little creature, and I observed her first standing one 
morning at the bow of the boat where the wind was so 
strong that if two people stood side by side they could 
not hear each other's voice. It seemed impossible for so 
delicate a thing as this little girl to stand there. But in 
the thinnest of dresses, eerie-like, her fair hair floating 
in the wind, there she stood, oblivious to her surround- 
ings. To steady herself she had encircled a post with her 
arm, and there she remained, unconscious of all that was 
going on about her. It was very cold. Every one else 
was wrapped in furs and shivering. In the attempt to 
take my daily exercise, buffeting the wind and scarcely 



Beautiful Nikko; Homeward Bound 269 

able to breast it, I passed her several times. 

On one of my rounds I saw that she had loosed her 
embrace of the post and was dancing, running back and 
forth, throwing her hands above her head, at times leap- 
ing into the air like a faun, all the while murmuring to 
herself; the performance was so remarkable that I 
stopped to watch her. She took not the slightest notice 
of me. For days this steady wind blew. And for days 
my husband and I would see this little girl dancing or 
running on the windy side of the vessel, always talking to 
herself, utterly unconscious that anyone was looking at 
her. Beneath a full moon at night, or under a tranquil 
sky by day, she would lift her little white arms and in a 
seeming ecstasy of bliss, with flying skirts, she would pur- 
sue her wild dance. Improvising one difficult step after 
another she would speed and whirl, until from sheer ex- 
haustion she would fall to the deck. But — only for a 
moment would she rest. 

My husband and I christened her " The Child of the 
Wind." One day I thought I would question her. When 
I first spoke to her she seemed dazed, but gathering her- 
self together she answered me. She certainly was not a 
normal child. The story she told me was afterward 
corroborated by her mother. Always she had loved the 
wind. It was never too strong, too rough for her. Even 
when the tj^hoon came, those awful storms when every- 
body flies to cover, she, just a baby, would crawl out 



270 All the Wa3^ 'Eound 

under the awnings which had been dra^Ti dovm to pro- 
tect the house. Her distracted parents, although they 
tried to watch her closely, would often find that she had 
eluded them and, frantic with fear for her safety, would 
seek her in that awful wind, finding her either clinging to 
the branches of some well-rooted bush or else practicing 
her weird dance in the driving storm. 

A Sprite of the Air 

As she grew older, no amount of reasoning had any 
weight. She continued her curious love for the wind. 
She told me that the feeling when it blew through her 
thin dress and covered her body was delicious, exhilarat- 
ing, fine ! She could not explain her love for it, but with- 
out it, she said, she would die. Her little elfin face, with 
its curious and mysterious beauty, haunts me yet. I can 
see her now as she thus described her feelings to me, 
light-hearted, free, leaping and agile, dancing on the deck. 
Whether the skies above were blue or whether they were 
overcast with the blackest of clouds mattered not at all 
to her — if only the wind blew. The harder it blew the 
happier, the more exhilarated she was. What was there 
in the wind which so hypnotized this little white maiden 
from China f 

The fourteen-day voyage across the Pacific becomes 
always a fifteen-day sail, and alas, this year we had tw^o 
Fridavs ! Even as a strict Catholic, however, I declined 



Beautiful Nikko; Homeward Bound 271 

to keep both of them. I felt privileged to eat meat on 
the second day. A day is lost when sailing westward 
across the Pacific, but in coming eastward a day is found. 
It seems funny. Honolulu, the beautiful, was our only 
stop between Yokohama and 'Frisco. We spent the day 
there and it was glorious. We motored out to see the 
Pali, the old Punch Bowl, the pearl harbor, the palace, 
and all that we could in one day. We called on old 
friends, sat for a while on the ]3ier and watched the surf 
riders. We loved its tropical charm, its magnificent plan- 
tations where the pineapples grow — the kind that liter- 
ally melt in one's mouth. But I was a bit sad here. The 
last time I visited Honolulu I had a dear friend here who 
had planned all our pleasures for us, and who now has 
gone over the Great Divide. My thoughts were of him. 
I could not get him out of my mind, nor could I throw 
oif a feeling of depression which overcame me in this 
exquisitely lovely spot. 

America — and Home 

Seven days later we saw the coast of California in the 
distance. The joy of a home-coming! No matter what 
splendors the rest of the world has to offer home is the 
finest and best place. Even the customs house officials 
seemed nice — and that is saying a good deal ! Two days 
with our brother, his wife and baby, in Los Angeles, then 
back to our children, and our grandchildren, and our very 



272 All the Wa.y 'Round 

own Chicago. What a joy to see the little ones, and to 
note the change in them since we had seen them last. And 
CHICAGO! Our city of beautiful dreams! Of lofty 
ideals ! You possess an hypnotic charm ! AVhat can you 
and what have you not demonstrated to the world ? Your 
high buildings and busy streets are famous now the world 
over, and the future still holds much. So, whether you 
be garbed in winter snows, or whether you wear your 
summer dress of emerald green, we stand beside your 
sparkling blue waters and openly declare our love ! Long 
may you live ! And may you be always what for so long 
you have been and still are^ — OUR HOME. 



INDEX 



INDEX 



Abu, Mount, 29 
Agra, 36, 38, 47, 50 
Akbar, 36 
Alhambra, The, 13 
Allen, General, 8 
Amano-Hashidate, 228 
Ambassadors, Hall of the, 13 
Amber, deserted cities of, 34 
Ancestor worship, 172 
Ancestor, The Great, 206 
Andes, The, 83 
Anuradhapura, 103-109 
Arabia, 21 
Arakan pagoda. The, 134 

Baguio, 63, 155 

Baiern (Bavaria), 15 

Barcelona, 16 

Bear, sloth, 93 

Benares, 52 

Benares, Monkey Temple of, 

59 
Bengal, 77 

Bengal, Bay of, 88, 99, 118 
Beri-heri, 263 
Bee-eaters, 92 
Bhootan, 76 
Bingen on the Rhine, 8 
Blavatsky, Madame, 90 
Blavatsky, School of Theoso- 

phy, 20, 90 
Bo tree. The, 94, 106 
Bombay, 18, 22-31, 43, 47, 62, 

121 
Bombay, Hanging Gardens of, 

24 



Bombay, Front Door of India, 

the, 27 
''Brain Fever Bird, The," 69 
Bubuls, 92 

Bungalows, dak, 121, 133, 136 
Burgos, 11 
Burma, 68, 102, 115, 118, 120- 

136 
Burnett, Colonel, 247 
Burnett, Mrs., 247 

Caen, 6 

Cairo, 19 

Calcutta, 27, 65-71, 88, 91, 94 

Calcutta, Back Door of India, 
27 

Canton, 152, 162, 164-169 

Carlos Ferdinand, Prince of 
Bavaria, 16 

Ceylon, 17, 45, 99-125, 153 

Chadar, 62 

Chicago, 2, 10, 15, 20, 33, 60, 99, 
131, 148, 155, 166, 188, 202, 
226 272 

"Chil'dof the Wind," 268 

China, 17, 112, 117, 133, 152, 
155, 161, 170-181, 190, 200, 
211, 225, 248, 258, 267, 268 

China, Dowager Empress of, 
185-189, 191, 207 

China, Great Wall of, 181, 195- 
198 

China, Pu Lun, Prince Impe- 
rial of, 188-190 

Chosen, 210, 264 

Chota-Hazri, 88, 114 



275 



276 



Index 



Chufou, 196 

Clmzenjhi, 251 

Colombo, 99 

Confucius, 1, 170, 196 

Confucius, Temple of, 184, 192 

Cordova, 11 

Crane, demoiselle, the, 93, 101 

d'Arc, Jeanne, 3 
Daibutsuden, 229 
Dandy, 80 
Darjeeling, 73-86 
Delhi, 39, 47, 51 
Dilwarra Temples, The, 29 
Dresden, 8 
Durbar, the, 47, 58 

Edward the Confessor, 6 
Egrets, 92, 102, 131 
Egypt, 19, 103, 145 
Eulalia, Infanta, 15 
Everest, Mount, 77-83 

Fakir, 34 

Forbidden City, the, 178-189 
France, 3 

Franz Josef, Emperor of Aus- 
tria, 15 
Fujiyama, 237, 245, 266 
Fusan, 215 
Futtipur-Sikri, 36 

Ganesha, 95 
Ganges, The, 52, 97 
Gautama, 94, 100, 125, 134 
Gautama, Sacred Tooth of, 100 
Geisha Girls, 225, 239, 259 
Georgetown, 143 
Ghandi, 43, 58, 84, 163 
Ghats, The, 53 



Gifu, 239-243 
God of War, the, 179 
Golden Lily Tank, the, 96 
Golden Pagoda, the, 124 
Gopuras, 49 
Granada, 11 
Grant, General, 257 
Great Pagoda, The, 174 

Hall of a Thousand Pillars, 

the, 96 
Hanchow, 165 
Hearn, Lafcadio, 223 
Heiser, Dr., 154, 263 
Heroshigi, 222 

Hidara-Jingoro, 223, 229, 252 
Himalayas, 1, 66, 73-79, 83 
Hocksai, 222 
Holmes, Burton, 223 
Holy of Holies, 20, 234, 255 
Holy AVay, The, 175, 194 
Holland, 10, 20 
Hongkong, 148, 152, 163, 166, 

173 
Honolulu, 89, 270 
' ' House that God Begot, The, ' * 

6 

Igorrotes, Market of, 157 
Imperial City, The, 178 
India, 2, 17, 22-143, 162, 263 
Irving, "Washington, 13 
Irrawaddy River, the, 119, 

122, 146 
Italy, 11, 19 

Jahanara Begam, 38 
Jain Temples, The, 29 
Jaipur, the "Pink City," 32 
Jami Masjid. 51 



Index 



277 



Japan, 1, 17, 155-266 
Japan, Red Cross of, 262 
Jinrickshas, 76, 226, 230, 253 
Jumna River, the, 35 
Ju-jitsu, 263 

Kai, 59 

Kaisar I Hind, 18 
Kakemonos, 228, 255 
Kaltura, 114 
Kandy, 100-117 
Kano screens, 221, 255 
Kapurthala, Maharajah of, 39 
Kegon Falls, 253 
Kinehinjinga (Mount), 77 
Kioto, 220-246 
Korea, 160, 212-225 
Koyo, Mount, 230 

Lama Temple, the, 181 
Lama Dance, the, 184 
Lions, Court of the, 13 
London, 4 
Lorikeets, 92 
Los Banos, 153 
Lourdes, 10 
Louvre, The, 3 
Luxembourg, 3 

Madras, 20, 47, 88 
Madrid, 13 
Madura, 49, 93, 98 
Makimonos, 228, 255 
Malabar Hill, 22 
Malacca Straits, 144 
Malaysia, 143 
Manchuria, 17, 207, 264 
Mandalay, 119-140 
Manila, 152-162, 263 
Marseilles, 18, 91, 162 



Mercier, Cardinal, 9 

Miller, Warren Hastings, 128 

Ming Tombs, the, 175, 181, 

192-195 
Miyajima, 219 
Montaz y Mahal, 35 
Mukden, 207-212 
Myrtle Court, The, 13 

Nagoya, 237-239, 246 

Nanking, 173-175 

Nankow, 192 

Nara, 229, 250 

Nats, 120 

Nepaul, 76 

Nikko, 252-257 

Nikko, Red Bridge of, 257 

Nuwara Eliya, 100, 104 

Order of the Dragon, The, 191 

Paddy birds, 92 

Paddy fields, 245 

Pagoda of the War God, the, 

175 
Pagsangan, 153 
Pailow, the, 192 
Pearl Mosque, the, 38 
Peepul tree, the, 94 
Peking, 165, 173, 177-206, 207, 

226, 268 
Penang, 143 
Pengyi, the, 121 
Philippines, The. 63, 152-160 
Purdah, 25, 47, 130, 143 

Rangoon, 118-131, 142, 146 - 
Red Sea, 17 
Reggio, 19 
Rouen, 2 



278 



Index 



Sacred Mountain, the, 196 

Sahih, 33, 81 

Sake, 224 

Sampans, 146, 168 

Saris, 62, 105 

Seoul, 212 

Seville, 11 

Shah Jahan, 35, 38 

Shanghai, 173 

Shantung, 196 

Shimonoseki, 217 

Shwe-Dagon, 123-126 

Siam, 118, 125 

Sigiriya, 104, 107 

Silence, Towers of, 22 

Singapore, 146-149 

Siva, 59, 95 

Snake Temple, the, 145 

Son of Heaven, the, 181-183 

Spain, 11, 101, 187 

Suchow, 173 

Sule Pagoda, the, 127 

Summer Palace, the, 181, 185 

Sun Yat Sen, Dr., 193, 202, 204 

Tagore, Dr. Rabindranath, 20, 

71 
Taj Mahal, the, 35, 92, 181 



Temple of the Happy New 

Year, the, 183 
Temple of Heaven, the, 180- 

183 
Temple of the Sacred Tooth, 

the, 117 
Theebaw, 120, 136 
Thibet, 75, 119, 195 
Tiger Hill, 78, 82, 86, 174 
Toddy Palm, the, 115 
Tonga, the, 26, 51 
Torii, the, 219, 268 

Wales, The Prince of, 46-48, 

58, 92, 162, 258 
Widow Monuments, 172 
William the Conqueror, 6 
Winchester, 5 
Wood, General, 154, 161 

Yang-tse-kiang, 203 
Yellow Temple, the, 181 
Yokohama, 244, 250-252, 266 
YuanShihK'ai, 183, 190 

Zenana, 28 
Zoroaster, 23 

Zoroaster, "Everlasting Fire 
of, "24 



